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  1. #11

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    Mark,

    Thank you for the detailed answer. I looked up some basic folder designs on the Internet and was able to restore my 533/16 BX. I unscrewed the back lens element with my hands (didn't have a lens spanner wrench), opened the shutter and cleaned all elements thoroughly using distilled water with a drop of dishwashing soap and a lot of Q-tips. Then I removed the focusing ring and unscrewed the front element and cleaned those surfaces as well. There was no need to remove the second element, as I could get at it from both sides. I loaded some wax paper on 120 rolls and used this as a ground glass to recalibrate the focus at infinity (courtesy of David Richert). Now all I have to do is put a tiny bit of lubricant onto the gears and helicoid (it's not as smooth as I'd like it to be), repeat the calibration and shoot a test roll. I'll also give the leatherette a nice rub and shine up the metal parts.

    As you can see on this test shot (before), the focus (infinity at 5-8m) was off by a large margin and the grime inside the lens had a very visible impact.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I will post some test shots when my work on this camera is complete. I don't want to stop here though. I'll get the suggested readings mentioned in this thread and turn myself into a semi-qualified repairman.
    And the sign said, "long haired freaky people need not apply"

  2. #12

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    Careful with the lube. A white lithium grease works well but don't use the grease gun from the garage=) A LITTLE dab or two with a small brush will be plenty.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  3. #13

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    My calibration turned out to be a failure. I think I'll need a decent ground glass after all. Plastic just doesn't cut it.



    And the sign said, "long haired freaky people need not apply"

  4. #14

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    You can make your own GG with a glass from a picture frame and polishing compound. Do you have anything like a thrift store over there?

    Oh Boy, another project! =)
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  5. #15
    jnoir's Avatar
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    When I started doing my own repairs more than 10 years ago (I'm on my late twenties now) I just started picking up cameras and simply taking them apart to understand how they work. Taking notes and recording on video everything, specially at the beginning of the learning curve, is one of the few good advices I got when I was on your situation. My advice for you'd be: start with easy, simple, cheap cameras. The Super Ikonta is a CRF and not one of the easiest designs to work with (although well documented on the net, which may be of help). Your approach also does not grant a clean Ikonta, but one where some glass surfaces are now more or less clean. A good CLA involves Cleaning (everything, not just the glass), Lubricating (a few shutter points, RF linkage, focussing helix, etc) and Adjusting (recollimation of lens, readjusting of shutter speeds as required, etc).

    Oh, and for focussing, I just had a glass square cut to size, and applied Scotch tape to one side.

  6. #16
    flatulent1's Avatar
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    I just stretched some scotch tape across the gap, no need for glass. With that and a loupe I was able to fix the focus on my Nettar.
    Fred Latchaw
    Seattle WA


    I am beginning to resent being referred to as 'half-fast'.
    Whatever that's supposed to mean.

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