For filling holes there are a number of methods, some better than others. First, clean the hold using a pipe cleaner. If it is shredded or has pieces of loose wood, get them out. Then treat it with a wood hardner. You drop a few drops into the cleaned out hole & let it dry for a day. Then, get a piece of wood of the type you are repairing. Sand a bit with 220 or finer grit sandpaper & get a small pile of wood sanding to mix to fill the hole. Mix it with a bit of either Elmer's ProBond interior/exterior wood glue or Titebond III wood glue. Both of these tested extremely high in sheer strength in independent testing. Better even than Gorilla Glue. (andGorilla Glue expands as it sets & makes for problems later in cleanup)
Split off a small splinter (about the size of a toothpick tip) & coat with the glue/sawdust mix & push into the hole. Fill the hole the rest of the way with the glue/sawdust mixture. Let dry for a day. Then, sand if needed with 220 or finer sandpaper to smooth to match the rest of the surface. Now you are ready to put in the screws. Putting in a wood splinter that is the same as what you are working with assures the pressure of the screw will stay the same (or very close) to what the camera originally had. The wood splinter will compress approximately the same. If you are worried about the pressure or the wood splitting for any reason, use a Dremel tool to drill a pilot hole using the very small drill bits available for them. (don't have them in front of me but I think a 1/16 inch is OK) Just drill a small pilot hole in the repaired & strengthened screw site. Don't go the full depth of the screw. If you need a reminder of its depth measure the drill bit against the screw & put a piece of masking tape at the depth you want. Don't go deeper.

Then, put in the screw taking care to use a screwdriver that fits the screw head properly. If you use a bad fit you will slip & mess up the head... it is easy to do & when you slip you usually scar & scratch the wood as well... then you have to do a finish repair once again.

This is easier to do than to describe.

Yes, you can use a toothpick or wooden match & super glue but they don't match too well & if you use them to fill a hole that won't be covered they don't take stain, dye, tung or teak or similar oil or varnish, lacquer or shellac as well & will leave a mis-matched section of wood as a result.

If you want to strip the wood... use one product & one only. 3M Safest Stripper. It doesn't stink, doesn't eat your hands & works well. 3M has the patent & is the only company that makes this stuff. It works better than anything on the market & for many of us can be used without gloves... it is really that easy. Just follow the directions, slather it on & let it sit & then wipe it off. A few good sponges with the scrubbing sides work well for this & you quickly get down to raw wood & can see the beauty that was hidden beneath the scarred & battered surface.

Good luck & enjoy the process.

And... while you take screws or parts off, do one thing to make it VERY easy to replace as they were. Take a polaroid or pixelograph of how they were on the camera & as you take them off put in order on a length of masking tape. Then, fold the tape over to assure they don't move, label it on the side & put into its own ziplock baggie. This assures they all sit in order & can be put back in order & you don't lose them in the carpet when you bump them off the table.