I'm definitely intrigued.... seems like a few sheets would cut down nicely and give my 'obscure sized' plate camera collection an outing. It is such a pain trying to cut down sheet film and somehow persuade it to sit in a glass plate holder. I presume this paper is blue sensitive, so the whole process cutting and loading could be done by darkroom safelights?
I like the monobath suggestion, too, for near polaroid like results ;-)
Right, who's going to be first up with a formula for a low contrast monobath developer for paper?
Here's Geoffrey Crawley's monobath:
Sodium Sulphite (anhydrous) 50gms
Sodium Hydroxide 10gms
Sodium Thiosulphate 90gms
Water to I litre
Obviously it's intended for film. I believe to lower the contrast you drop the level on hydroquinone - and also lower the pH (reduce the hydroxide?)
Any developer gurus able to put definite figures on it, or suggest a better alternative?
I've used FX-6a for film, and it tends toward high contrast. To reduce contrast increase the thiosulfate and to reduce it more, decrease the hydroquinone. The thiosulfate is the "timer", so if you increase it, you effectively reduce the development time.
Yes, but dark red only, no amber! Right from the instruction sheet:
Originally Posted by steven_e007
2. SAFELIGHT RECOMMENDATIONS
Unexposed paper must only be used with Ortho (deep red) safelight such as ILFORD 906 containing a 15W bulb or equivalent. As a precaution against fogging, it is advised that the light be a minimum of 1.2m/4ft from the paper at all times. Safelight exposure should be kept to a minimum and unused paper returned to its original packaging for storage.
Just got this as an email:
HARMAN DIRECT POSITIVE PAPER is available in most popular photographic sizes from 4x5in to 16x20in. Visit ilfordphoto.com or harmanexpress.com for full product availability information and to download the Technical Information booklets (pdf files).
At present this new paper can only be purchased direct from our factory in Cheshire and customers in the UK can order via our shopping website www.harmanexpress.com.
Customers from outside the UK should "contact us" via the website or telephone Customer Services on +44 1565 684000 so that overseas shipment can be arranged.
We are planning later this year to make this range of products available in Europe and the US via dedicated web sites selling in Euros and Dollars.
Sales & Marketing Director
HARMAN technology Ltd
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
Ilford is to be commended for bringing out a new product.
Ralph, I've been working with paper negatives for probably 15 years; I've developed a method using grade 2 paper and preflashing that works pretty good for me, with a dilute developer, that works in both pinhole as well as lensed cameras. In all that time, however, I haven't used a yellow filter with MG paper, instead choosing to stick with the method that works for me. I suppose I'm stubborn. :rolleyes:
Originally Posted by RalphLambrecht
The thing I noticed about this Efke direct positive paper is its reciprocity issues, which conventional paper just doesn't have. But working with it yesterday has led me to one method of getting repeatable results, which is to fix the paper's exposure time to a calibrated value and modify the subject's lighting and/or the aperture size instead.
It will be interesting to see how the Harman paper reacts.
That's ok, I can live with that, still better than wielding a razor sharp craft knife in total darkness! :o
Originally Posted by RalphLambrecht
So...Orthochromatic, even better from a usability point of view as it gives us some control with filtration. I'm going to order some right now...
I've made some tests with the harman paper today and i am seeing exactly what Joe VanCleave above is reporting for the Efke. Anything faster than a 1 second exposure and the print is virtually black. Anything much past 4 seconds, and the contrast starts to soar, even with zone 3 pre-flashes.
You may want to give it a try. It really does wonders in controlling dense highlights.
Originally Posted by Joe VanCleave