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  1. #211
    colrehogan's Avatar
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    I received Steve's print today. I have not printed yet either. I'm off work between Christmas and New Year's. I expect to do my printing and shipping then.
    Diane

    Halak 41

  2. #212
    gr82bart's Avatar
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    OK, it is amazing what a UV light can do for you. I bought the Elation UV Wash light for $150 and this thing appears to work just fine for my 4x5 negs. I went on a marathon last night - started around 5pm and didn't finish 'till 2am! Made all the platinum prints I wanted - with a semblance of consistency - for this round, even the next round's and just prints I wanted to try out. About 30 prints in all. Used the Photographer's Formulary Kit. It was like a production line! I see my developer is a weird colour though - I guess it's spent...

    Prints will be mounted today and sent out on Monday. Then it's time to sleep.

    Carl, Mike, John, Don, Gerhard and Mark, when you get these, please give me HONEST feedback. I can take it and I want to learn. This is my first time ever.

    For example, how the heck do you spread the sensitizer evenly with a brush?

    Regards, Art.
    Visit my website at www.ArtLiem.com
    or my online portfolios at APUG and ModelMayhem

  3. #213
    donbga's Avatar
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    Art,
    Quote Originally Posted by gr82bart
    I see my developer is a weird colour though - I guess it's spent...
    Which developer did you use? Most likely it is fine, although it may look quite murkey. Just consider it seasoned.

    Quote Originally Posted by gr82bart
    please give me HONEST feedback. I can take it and I want to learn. This is my first time ever.
    Okay I won't give you a candy coated critique! I assume you received my gum print? Yes?

    Quote Originally Posted by gr82bart
    For example, how the heck do you spread the sensitizer evenly with a brush?
    Use a magic brush and coat slowly and lightly until the print looses its sheen.

    Don Bryant

  4. #214

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    Congratulations Art...it's easy to lose track of time once you get things all working
    I agree with Don about the magic brush (Richeson 9010). Since I have not been to any type of workshop, or even worked with another alt. process printer can't tell you a right or wrong way to coat, just how I do it. Pour the substrate onto the center of the area I want to coat, then immediately start to work the solution (it's more like pushing the solution) around the area to be coated. Of course you are trying to make sure the area coated is even, which I seem to get by going up/down, left/right and then at a 45 degree angle. You know the when you are finished because the surface takes on a more velvet look. Not sure it matters, but I find using a 1 inch brush works best for 4x5's, but use a 2 inch brush for 5x7 and 8x10. Just be sure you move quickly, but not frantic.

    Looking forward to seeing your work and promise to give you honest thoughts...just remeber I'm a novice at this too!
    Mike C

    Rambles

  5. #215
    gr82bart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by donbga
    Which developer did you use?
    I used potassium oxalate - it came in the Photographer's Formulary Kit.
    Okay I won't give you a candy coated critique!
    Kewl! I just posted 3 pics I made last night in the gallery. The one of the Metropolitan Hotel you (and everyone else in my exchange groups) will be getting.
    I assume you received my gum print? Yes?
    Yes. It is beautiful and I am envious.
    Use a magic brush and coat slowly and lightly until the print looses its sheen.
    I used a 'sponge brush'. Is that the same thing? I've read about using a glass 'pusher' rod. Does that help any better or should I be using a plain jane camel hair brush?

    Regards, Art.
    Visit my website at www.ArtLiem.com
    or my online portfolios at APUG and ModelMayhem

  6. #216
    Joe Lipka's Avatar
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    The "magic brush" is a Richeson 9010 watercolor brush. Jerry's Artarama usually has the best price. It is better than a puddle pusher or a glass rod.
    Platinum developer is inexhaustable. If you don't contaminate it, it will literally last for years. I had one batch that lasted for about 8 years. Had to top it off every once in a while, but once you "break it in" it lasts for a long time. You can filter the developer through a coffee filter to remove the platinum and palladium metal that accumulates through use.
    A New Project! Transformations 02/02/2014

    www.joelipkaphoto.com

    250+ posts and still blogging! "Postcards from the Creative Journey"

    http://blog.joelipkaphoto.com/

  7. #217
    donbga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr82bart
    I used potassium oxalate - it came in the Photographer's Formulary Kit.
    Kewl! I just posted 3 pics I made last night in the gallery. The one of the Metropolitan Hotel you (and everyone else in my exchange groups) will be getting.
    Yes. It is beautiful and I am envious.
    I used a 'sponge brush'. Is that the same thing? I've read about using a glass 'pusher' rod. Does that help any better or should I be using a plain jane camel hair brush?

    Regards, Art.
    Art,

    Theoreticaly the PO doesn't go bad like silver gelatin paper developer. Over time it will accumulate palladium which will 'season' the developer which will change the developer characteristics some. Eventually it will become quite murky. At that point you may want to decant the developer to remove some of the sludge and replinish with fresh potassium oxalate.

    As for the sponge brush I would replace that as soon as you can with a Richeson 9010 brush, a.k.a. the magic brush. The sponge brush abrades the paper surface raising the nap. The Richeson coats very smoothly and doesn't abraid the paper. You can also use a glass rod, a.k.a. 'puddle pusher'. It will coat much smoother than a sponge brush but the magic brush is the champ. I'm not sure what a camel hair brush is or how it would work so I can't comment on that.

    Don

  8. #218
    gr82bart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by photomc
    Congratulations Art...it's easy to lose track of time once you get things all working
    The good times always seem to go so fast!
    I agree with Don about the magic brush (Richeson 9010).
    Thanks for the technique. I'll give that a try. One thing I have to do is 'darken' my margin lines so I don't spread the sensitizer to thinly over an area larger than I need. Also, I'm going to get this brush.
    Looking forward to seeing your work and promise to give you honest thoughts...just remeber I'm a novice at this too!
    I'm really quite nervous about this, since it was a lot firsts for me - first 4x5, first Polaroid type 55 film use, first picture of the day, first time PT printing, first time use of a UV light source that no one else seems to use, first time using this funky contact printer which I still haven't read anywhere what I am suppose to look for when I peel back the print, first time trying to spread a few drops of sensitizer over a thinly drawn margin in a darkroom with a small safe light, first time using my new bathroom as a darkroom, first time using my kitchen as the developing, etching, washing and drying area...egad!

    Art.
    Visit my website at www.ArtLiem.com
    or my online portfolios at APUG and ModelMayhem

  9. #219
    gr82bart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Lipka
    Platinum developer is inexhaustable. If you don't contaminate it, it will literally last for years. I had one batch that lasted for about 8 years. Had to top it off every once in a while, but once you "break it in" it lasts for a long time. You can filter the developer through a coffee filter to remove the platinum and palladium metal that accumulates through use.
    This is so good to know. I was getting ready to dump it!

    Thanks, Art.
    Visit my website at www.ArtLiem.com
    or my online portfolios at APUG and ModelMayhem

  10. #220
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Got a GREAT print from Mateo today--a beautiful print, and very much in the luddite elitist spirit.

    I'm about ready to go with mine. I've got a pile of albumenized paper and a few good negs, so I just need some time to sensitize and a moderately sunny day.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com



 

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