My cuts so far are extremely simple and not applicable to this discussion. I chop the film at 8 inches and load into holders. That said, I tried once to make a jig to cut 70mm film down to 120 and it was a dismal failure on every level. When I had the 8 circut and cut some 9 1/2" down to 8" it was startlingly difficult and I didn't achieve a clean edge. I believe my rough edge caused some of my banding in my one cirkut exposure so far. I doubt if it's possible to cut cirkut film to rollfilm sizes successfully unless you've got industrial equipment made to do it.
I shot about 10 feet on Saturday- 3 130 degree shots of the same thing, my house and yard. J&C works very well. Now to get the rest of the bugs out. The camera was motorized by others and I spent Friday afternoon getting it going- a minor wiring glitch.
I had one spool/leader/film that had some writings like "good '98" but no hint as to speed. It may have been a reload with 400 or maybe VP.
I tried it ( what the hey) just to see if it would run with film etc. I looked up developing Aero by reel to reel and VP small tank, corrected for windage and outdated film, tried HC 110 in a tray for 15 min and got boiler plate, but an IMAGE. So I tired another cutoff at half that and got a printable, if dense and lots-of-fog, sharp image.
I lost a third due to ripped film, I suspect from the "hole punch"
Then I shot 3 130 degree shots on some J&C that I reloaded onto the spool with great difficulty, taped the leader but no trailer. By this time it was noon light.
I still don't understand how to compensate for the paper leader- I over compensated by taking a narrow exposure- a little too much as the tail end hanged up and gave me the only band at 2'' from the end of the 3rd exposure.
I cut the film 1/3 and 2/3 and was not able to detect a mark of any kind that is supposed to be made by the "cut button". "1/3" was easy to "see-saw" in the trays, but the "2/3" had to be rolled from hand to hand.
The J&C has little or no tendency to curl, so it was difficult to keep the film rolled and the cut ends tended to scratch the image. Also, handling 10 inch by 9 feet or so of film that wants to be flat makes it easy to pick up lint and other detritae. Plus all those fingerfumble marks can't be good. I have detected no fingerprints on the negs but I do remember loading a daylight tank for a fast start at the next session. That session didn't take place tfor a week or so, meantime my fingers had promoted fungal growth on the film- so I'm concerned about a 2-3 week time between loading the camera and processing.
Make a loading rack so I can keep my cottonpickin fingers off the film
Check actual exposure to assure enough- In the harsh light I didn't get enough exposure in the shadows, but enough in the highlights.
Figure out how close I am to the right development if I use a Morse Aerial outfit and Clayton F-60
OR fix the "cut button"
Get another spool!
Get my own magnifying cosmetic mirror to see under the camera to check the gear mesh since I hate that creaking sound when I try to bend over and upside down.
I contacted one of the negs on 8x10 sheets of EK Polymax- no sign of banding!!
I too am very interested in a slitting solution - to make 122 film.
I have a couple hundred feet of sheetfilm stock cut to width . I tried one shot in a Kodak Panoram. It worked if loaded and unloaded in the dark, but it's too thick to roll properly on a standard 122 spool. The 3/4 inch diam of a Cirkut spool probly will work better- maybe even using minimal film lengths on a say 1'' rod?
Last query- Has anyone tried spooling long film lengths? I surmise I could probly get 40 feet on a spool plus leader and still have sufficient freeboard for light protection.
AND there is nothing like seeing a 10x30 neg come out of the fix!! It's almost ULF Fever.
You don't want to spool too much film because one of the measurements that makes for a sharp image is diameter of the takeup drum. It's ok for a fair amount of film on the #10, say 10-12 feet, but will change the diameter too much after that. Also it probably wouldn't fit very well.
Having the film unwind is a problem, and the answer to that is spool up the film and let it sit a few weeks before using it
On the 8 outfit and 6 outfit kodak designed the camera to take film with the emulsion facing out, as opposed to in on the #5,#6, #10, and #16.
Kodak sold 8" film up to just a few years ago that had the emulsion facing in,and I used it on my 8 outfit. People said it didn't matter, but I found the camera did run better when I reverse spooled the film. The angle going over the felt is just a bit less, but it helps. You don't have to , but I've found that every little bit you do adds up to a smoother running camera. Anyway. I really notice that letting the film sit a while after reverse spooling.
spooling and handling fil in the dark is a constant torment. Use cotton gloves whenever you can, jig up when you can, etc
I'm curious- did kodak stop making 10" color neg film?
On the takeup drum. When determining the speed that the film moves past the slit in relationship to the camera turning, the speed that the film moves has to do with the circumference of the drum and the speed that it is turned.
With too much film added the the circumference grows larger, and slurring will result at some point
Dang-of course. Sigh
Originally Posted by jamie young
I get only references to VP when I search cirkut on the Kodak site
Thanks for your help, I'll cudgel my brain for a way to do this!
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A current thread from Ilford's Simon Galley asks if any LF/ULF people would be interested in Delta 3200 sheet film. See below
Maybe you can convince Ilford directly or via JandC or ??? to save some 10" wide roll ends for Cirkut use after the short sheets are cut.
I don't shoot Cirkut but I do enjoy looking at LF panoramics and I know the pain involved when a process is lost due to lack of materials.
thanks for the thought
Cirkut film needs to be on a thin base, like 120 film, or aerial film. sheet stock is too thick