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  1. #11

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    I use a unicolor 8x10 PRINT drum, the one with the ridges inside. You can do two sheets with the little rubber gizmo to separate the sheets. I use a simple motorized base. Works well and dirt cheap.
    Ike

  2. #12

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    deisenlord has the right idea. Unicolor 8x10 drum, motorized base, Pyrocat HD. Make it easy and put a sheet of nylon screen behind the film. That will allow the chemicals to wash away the anti-halation layer off the back of the film.

    I have done lots of 5x7 that way. Nice results.

    tim in san jose
    Where ever you are, there you be.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by k_jupiter View Post
    deisenlord has the right idea. Unicolor 8x10 drum, motorized base, Pyrocat HD. Make it easy and put a sheet of nylon screen behind the film. That will allow the chemicals to wash away the anti-halation layer off the back of the film.

    I have done lots of 5x7 that way. Nice results.

    tim in san jose
    Ike mentioned the ridges in the Unicolor drums (also present in the Chromega drums, which have nicer separaters). I have found that the ridges allow enough fluid movement behind the negative to adequately remove the antihalation layer without the need for an additional screen. The Beseler and, possibly--I've only seen pictures--the Cibachrome drums don't have the ridges, and the negative might hug the inside of the drum.
    The Beseler motor base is unidirectional, while the Unicolor base is bidirectonal, so you get better "slosh" and very nice, even development with a minimum of chemistry.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Deckled Edge View Post
    Ike mentioned the ridges in the Unicolor drums (also present in the Chromega drums, which have nicer separaters). I have found that the ridges allow enough fluid movement behind the negative to adequately remove the antihalation layer without the need for an additional screen. The Beseler and, possibly--I've only seen pictures--the Cibachrome drums don't have the ridges, and the negative might hug the inside of the drum.
    The Beseler motor base is unidirectional, while the Unicolor base is bidirectonal, so you get better "slosh" and very nice, even development with a minimum of chemistry.
    I looked. It is a Besseler tank, not unicolor. I have placed a piece of plastic Ibeam in the groove provided that keeps the negs in place, there are no other ridges so screen is useful.

    I also time my rotations, after very minute, I flip the tank over to prevent the Bromide drag you can get from uni-directional processing.

    tim in san jose
    Last edited by k_jupiter; 02-27-2008 at 01:59 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: speling ov corse
    Where ever you are, there you be.

  5. #15
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    I do my 5x12s in the Jobo 3005 drum. They fit just fine, one sheet per tube. You could do 4x10s the same way - I'd be leery of doing 2x 4x10 per tube, because of the possibility of the sheets slipping and overlapping during the process.

  6. #16

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    newlab here in San Francisco develops my 4x10 Fuji provia slides

  7. #17
    Neanderman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don Dudenbostel View Post
    I didn't know if there were hangers available or what.
    If you know someone skilled in the art of welding stainless, it would probably not be too hard to cut down some 8x10 hangers.

    Ed
    "I only wanted Uncle Vern standing by his new car (a Hudson) on a clear day. I got him and the car. I also got a bit of Aunt Mary's laundry, and Beau Jack, the dog, peeing on a fence, and a row of potted tuberous begonias on the porch and 78 trees and a million pebbles in the driveway and more. It's a generous medium, photography." -- Lee Friedlander

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