Favourite B&W film for ULF...

[argus]

... tell me, and most important: why and how you develop it for different output processes.

Thanks.

G

[scootermm]

Efke PL100 7x17...
developed in "straight from the faucet" tap water with Pyro HD 1:1:100.
I mix usually 5 liters of working solution. 50ml A, 50ml B, 5L water in a 16x20 tray.
I develop usually 4 7x17 negs in this. One at a time.
I use a large 10" hake brush to brush the developer over the emulsion side of the neg.
after about 7mins in the developer I turn on a faint green safe light to inspect (DBI) the highlight density. Usually put it back in the developer and wait another 2mins and check it again. I can manage 4 7x17 negs from this 5L working solution. Sometimes the last neg takes a little longer but thats dependant on the time needed for the first few. havent noticed any bad fogging or the like from the safelight. only scratching I get comes from me fouling up somehow.
and that happens.

hope that helps G

[Jim Noel]

scootermm,
How are you printing these negatives?
I have been using the same film and developer, but in1 1/2:1 1/2:100 dikution and they are too flat to print easily with Pt/Pd.

I have just finished testing the film in 2:2:100 and boosted the Dmax considerably.

[scootermm]

Jim
Ive gone through my fair share of Pyro HD and after experimenting with the 2:2:100 dilution and even the 1.5:1.5:100... I settled on 1:1:100 as it worked best for me. Im exposing my Efke PL100 film at about ISO 50 and the negs seems to take about 7-10 mins to get the highlights where I want them (granted in the summertime my dev times are short and in the wintertime they are longer - given the temp of the tap water used to create the working solution).

I'm developing strictly for pt/pd printing and doing gum over pt/pd printing.

Perhaps you are exposing it at an ISO of 100 - I had failed to mention my EI of 50 in my original post - so it would seem to make sense that the 1.5:1.5:100 dilution would then work better for you at an ISO of 100.

Im still pretty much exposing/developing my negs the same way even now with the larger 12x20 negs and its pretty much the same beast (only larger). My method is pretty much literally "exposing for the shadows, dev for the highlights"

hope that helps.

[Jim Noel]

Thanks for the info.
Jim

[garysamson]

Kodak 12x20 400 Tmax film
E.I. 320
Developer Pyrocat HD diluted 1.5:3:100
Processed one sheet at a time in a Jobo 3062 tank using a Jobo CPP2 processor
Temp. 75f for 16 minutes
Contact printed on platinum / palladium paper

[Colin Graham]

I've been using 1:1:100 pyrocat too, although the p-aminophenol version, and get plenty of density for kallitypes with fp4+ rated at 64. I use a slosher tray with constant gentle agitation, usually 24C around 10 minutes for a SBR of 7. This gives alot of contrast without too much density so my printing times under a bank of BL tubes are in the 10 minute range.

[photo8x10]

I'm a newer in ULF, now I'm using Bergger 200 developed in ABC pyro or in pyrocat-HD 1:1:100. I'm waiting my 8x20 ilford films(FP4+ and HP5+).
Developed in tray once or twice at time.
I'm sure I'll use my 8x10 favorite films(Ilford fp4+, HP5+, tmax400, Bergger200 and Efke 100), in pyrocat-hd and ABC pyro.
Contact print in AZO and Platinum/Palladium

Best
Stefano

[SAShruby]

8x20 Efke PL100 in Xtol1+1, Xtol1+3, Pyrocat HD 2:2:100 in Trays. MOre in Xtol because I don't have LODIMA yet.

[doughowk]

Efke 25 & Ilford FP4 for 7X17 developed in tubes with Rodinal. Being relatively new to ULF, I've just been using what works for me in the smaller formats. Once I can standardize on a printing process (Lodima, Kallitypes or Carbon), will then re-evaluate my negs.