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  1. #11

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    I have used Jobo 2850 drum like Jim with very good result. Make sure to get and cut a sheet of rubber or plastic as an insert or liner to put inside the drum. Otherwise your nagetives will get scratches from the ridges inside the drum.

    I dare not to put two loose 8x20 sheets inside the drum. I do one sheet at a time.

  2. #12

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    The 2850 works fine. If you use a 3063 drum with a pyro developer without an insert of some sort, you are looking for trouble. I have negs which you can't see any banding on (from the "gaps" in the ridges of a 3063 where the join is) - however, you can measure it with a UV densitometer and the banding prints with UV processes (not with silver though). If you are lucky enough to find them, the Jobo sheet film inserts which are no longer made work very well for the larger ULF sizes.

  3. #13

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    Thanks for everyone's insights.

    Having the 2850 Drum, I am looking foward to trying it with 11x14 sheet film. Not having any blank/exposed 11x14 sheet film....and definitely not good at geometry..math..Can you safely place 2 sheets of 11x14 sheet film in the 2850 Drum? How much solution do you use in it? The JOBO instructions for this size drum indicates 400ml of solution per sheet. How much solution do you find works for 11x14 sheet film in the 2850 Drum? Thank you for your time and assistance. Jon

  4. #14

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    Can you put 2 sheets of 11x14 in 2850? I don't think so. That drum is for one sheet of 16x20.

    I have learned a lesson in a hard way a year ago. I was begging one of my female friends to model for me for months. She demured and finally agreed. She was a beauty. I made 6 exposures of 5x7 using my 30cm Apo-Lanthar lens. Everything went so well. Coming home excited and tired, I got out my Jobo 3005 drum without dinner. Long story short, to save time, I carefully put 2 sheets of 5x7 negative in each slot, foolishly believing they would be OK since they took less space than one sheet of 8x10. I put one sheet of 8x10 in each of the two remaining slots. All the 6 sheets of 5x7 got ruined in different degrees. They moved within the slots and stacked up on each other. I had some special effect on each sheet! I have not got chance to go back to that girl again. Her beauty has faded or my mood has changed.

    So don't take the short cut.

  5. #15
    jimgalli's Avatar
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    Interesting that this got revived. OREN are you there? I'd love to hear how the 3 7X17's are doing in the 3063. I eventually gave up on 2 12X20's in a 3063 tank. No matter what I tried, I got the tire tracks. 11X14 is a conundrum. You can only do one at a time in the drum, so I have to admit, I've just been doing them in a tray. Which is a bummer! I don't seem to have the dexterity to do stacks of multiples in tray, and only souping one at a time is torture for me. 5 8X10's or 4 7X11's is a lot more my style. Cake and eat it too I guess, as I really love working with the bigger cameras. Expecially 11X14.
    He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep..to gain that which he cannot lose. Jim Elliot, 1949

    http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com

  6. #16
    Jim Noel's Avatar
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    Since I recently lucked into a wonderfully kept Korona 7x17 I have been processing the negatives in a 3063 drum. At first I used the little keepers which slide on the ridges but they left shadows of themselves on the edge of the film.
    I now do two negatives at a time with the Jobo set to revolve as slowly as possible. I have noticed no streaking of any kind using this method.
    [FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by jimgalli View Post
    Interesting that this got revived. OREN are you there? I'd love to hear how the 3 7X17's are doing in the 3063. I eventually gave up on 2 12X20's in a 3063 tank. No matter what I tried, I got the tire tracks. 11X14 is a conundrum. You can only do one at a time in the drum, so I have to admit, I've just been doing them in a tray. Which is a bummer! I don't seem to have the dexterity to do stacks of multiples in tray, and only souping one at a time is torture for me. 5 8X10's or 4 7X11's is a lot more my style. Cake and eat it too I guess, as I really love working with the bigger cameras. Expecially 11X14.
    Jim, sorry I somehow missed the continuation of this thread back in April. I think the issue with big sheets in the 3062/3063 is that they're much more vulnerable to uneven development in pyro developers than they are in traditional developers. So far I've not had a problem with D-76.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Donsta View Post
    The 2850 works fine. If you use a 3063 drum with a pyro developer without an insert of some sort, you are looking for trouble. I have negs which you can't see any banding on (from the "gaps" in the ridges of a 3063 where the join is) - however, you can measure it with a UV densitometer and the banding prints with UV processes (not with silver though). If you are lucky enough to find them, the Jobo sheet film inserts which are no longer made work very well for the larger ULF sizes.
    I used to own a Jobo 3063 drum but did not use it much for processing film because I find the Beseler 16X20 drum to be much more convenient, if you have the spacers which will allow you to process one sheet of 12X20 or two sheets of 7X17 or 8X20.

    There is no question but that the ridges of the drum cane cause banding streaks that will be visible with UV processes with pyro developers, though I don't personally see it in my fillm devleoped in the 16X20 Beseler, and I don't use an insert. To eliminate or minimize the streaking use a pre-soak in the durm of about five minutes, use a fairly dilute solution of the developer, and use a generous amount of developer.

    BTW, there have also been reports of this type of UV banding with traditional developers like D76. Fred Newman of the View Camera Store recommended at one time using a 1:3 or 1:4 dilution of D76 to eliminate the problem. I believe the same rationale applies to pyro type developers.

    Sandy King

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by sanking View Post
    BTW, there have also been reports of this type of UV banding with traditional developers like D76. Fred Newman of the View Camera Store recommended at one time using a 1:3 or 1:4 dilution of D76 to eliminate the problem. I believe the same rationale applies to pyro type developers.
    Thanks, Sandy, that's an important point. To be clear, I'm not using my negatives for UV processes - for prints on commercial silver papers only.

  10. #20
    Jim Noel's Avatar
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    Oren,
    I still have not had a problem. I pre-soak in 750 ml of water for 5 minutes, and develop Efke 100 in 750 ml of pyrocat hd 1 1/2:1:100. the drum rotates as slowly as possible.

    I will keep looking for streaks and hopefully continue to find none.
    Jim
    [FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]

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