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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by resummerfield
    This is what I did with my Canham 7x17. I tapped two additional 1/4x20 threads on the metal Canham plate that already had the 1/4 and 3/8 thread, and then bolted on the Really Right Stuff Multi-Purpose 6-inch Rail. I did not use the existing threads because, like George said, they are too close together. This RRS rail is then attached to my Arca B2 Ballhead. My main objective was to allow me to slide the camera on the ballhead to better balance with a variety of lenses, but it also works well in the vertical format.
    Fabulous Eric. Looks like a wonderful fix that would definately work for this task.

    Did you take the plate off of the camera to do the machining to bore and tap the two new holes? How stable is the camera on the B2 ball head?

    I checked on the price of a B2 ball head and they are not cheap (around $650). Are there any cheaper alternative ball heads that do not sacrifice reliability/stability or other tripod heads that would accept this rail?

    Cheers!

  2. #22
    resummerfield's Avatar
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    I removed the plate, and it was very easy. In fact, it would be almost impossible to do it properly on the camera, as the holes go completely through the plate.

    The B2 is very stable, but remember I use a converted surveyor’s wooden tripod and spread the legs wide and sink the points deep. I bought my B2 on ebay for about $350, and I haven’t found a better head. I use the B2 for horizontal; for vertical you can't use the B2 and would need the B1 or B1G. I have used it in vertical with my smaller B1, with no problems, but if you plan on much vertical I would suggest the B1G (bigger size, more like the B2). However, any large head (ball head or conventional) with the Arca adapter should work, so long as the tripod is sturdy enough.
    —Eric

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by jp80874
    Michael,

    If I understand you correctly we are solving two different problems. You will still have the weight of the camera-lens-film holder flopped over on its side. What I suggested keeps the weight over dead center when the camera is in the vertical position. I am uncomfortable with this imbalance.

    I discussed this with Dick Phillips. He agreed that this was a problem, but said that he had never worked on a solution such as Lotus shows. He thought it would be a workable solution. He only made fourteen 7x17s plus the 11x14s, and he clearly stated that they should only be considered for vertical shooting 2% of the time. If the customer wanted a higher percentage he should consider another camera.

    A local friend Robert Puckett has an 8x20 Wisner. He shoots nudes using the vertical format. My understanding is that he had Ron Wisner make an entirely new front standard, bellows and rear frame. I’m not sure I have this completely right, but I believe he has almost two complete cameras less the bed and rear standard. Correct me Robert if I have gotten this wrong.

    I guess it is all a matter of how much stress you and the camera can take.

    John Powers
    John, I had Ron build me a complete 8x20 rear standard. I just roll the horizontal off and then the vertical on. The bellows is the same bellows I just added bellows tabs for the vertical position. So all I do is turn the bellows 90 degrees. The front standard on an 8x20 horizontal is to short to get the lense up into the sweet spot. An 8x20 is built on an 8x10 bed so the front standard is the same height as an 8x10. This is to allow the camera to close up in the transport position. If you think about it no other format has this much difference in height when going from vertical to horizontal (12 inches). Now the 8x10 front standard is fine with a radical bed tilt is you're using a lens with enough coverage such as a large dagor. But if you are using a lens that is tight it won't make up to the sweet spot on the ground glass. What I did was have Ron build me a complete front standard using the vertical rails from a 16x20. This gives me all the height I want and allows me to work with a flat bed instead of a bed with a radical tilt.. I just roll the smaller 8x10 front standard off and then roll the taller standard on. So what I have is two complete rear standards and two complete front standards. The change is really easy since you just pull the bellows roll the back and front off and the other two on...replace the bellows and its done. Takes about 2:00 min. once you get the hang of it. This way all my camera movements are the same and I don't have nightmares of the rails ripping out of the bed from turning the camera on its side. If you just change the front standard to a taller one then the camera won't close in the horizontal position with the longer rails that hold the lens board. This way it also allows me to close the camera to the transport position no matter what set up I have. I hope this isn't to confusing. I had the idea of a telescoping front standard that would extend to make it up to the sweet spot without changing the front standard. But I wasn't willing to wait on that coming together. So I went this route and it works beautifully. Hope this helps. ....P.S..I do have some pics if anyone is interested just send me your email address and I'll send them to you.
    Last edited by RobertP; 08-23-2006 at 05:01 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #24

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    I know this won't help those of you that already own cameras, but for those of you that are thinking of ULF you might be interested in Richard Ritter's new camera http://www.lg4mat.net/ulfcamera.html This camera will handle both horizontals and verticals. It takes Richard about 2 minutes to convert it from one axis to the other. This has to be much less expensive compared to having Ron Wisner custom build you an additional standard, back etc. The last I heard, Richard has finally started production....I hope to have my 7x17 in the next few months.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgjbowen
    I know this won't help those of you that already own cameras, but for those of you that are thinking of ULF you might be interested in Richard Ritter's new camera http://www.lg4mat.net/ulfcamera.html This camera will handle both horizontals and verticals. It takes Richard about 2 minutes to convert it from one axis to the other. This has to be much less expensive compared to having Ron Wisner custom build you an additional standard, back etc. The last I heard, Richard has finally started production....I hope to have my 7x17 in the next few months.
    jg, The cost was more than reasonable. What makes it so nice is having all the movements the same that an 8x20 expedition allows you in both positions, vertical and horizontal. Try putting a 30 inch artar on one flipped on its side with the bellows racked out to 36" and you'll know what I mean. I shoot a lot of verticals and the security of working with a flat camera bed and having my movements all the same was well worth the extra investment. But I agree, Richard has done some excellent work for me and I'm sure his cameras will be top notch and a great alternative. He also knows Wisner cameras top to bottom. Are his new cameras built on some type of conduit frame? Or some type of round metal tubing?

  6. #26
    RobertP's Avatar
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    Oops, sorry I didn't notice the link to Richard's cameras

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