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  1. #1

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    12 X 20 Comparisons

    Just wondering if some of you big-camera guys might comment on the features the various manufacturers put on these rigs, e.g., swing, tilt, etc. What's useful?

    I'd be particularly interested in Korona vs F&S comparisons, as I'll probably end up with a vintage camera, rather than a modern one. If you think a modern camera has feature advantages over an antique, I'd appreciate hearing those thoughts, too.

    Yes, I know there's a 1220 Korona up for auction on feeBay - that's what prompted this inquiry. I've got a 'big' birthday this month, and am considering pointing my finger at that auction and saying, 'Grandpa Want!', with the hope that guilt-ridden family members will crush all competing bidders.

    Then, again, I never got the TIG welder I asked for last 'big' birthday, so I'm not holding my breath.

    TIA, Charley

  2. #2

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    I like geared rear tilt and swing on my 12x20. I'm not much for front moves on ULF. In order of quality...
    Best-Ebony, 2nd best- probably Lotus, 3rd best-Wisner.. if you get a good one or Canham. I have not seen the other new Chinese ones yet. The older cameras are good too but there are always some issues on a 65+ year old camera. Emile/www.deleon-ulf.com.

  3. #3
    Robert Hall's Avatar
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    I love my Canham. I use the rear tilt and rarely anything else on the back. I like the rise and tilt on the front.

    It's hard to find lenses that allow much else.

    I chose the canham from experience from others from Kieth. It needs a little stabilization in the wind, but that is easily taken care of.

    It is lighter than others as well. I do hike with it and it carries well.

    I dont think I would trade it for another brand.
    Robert Hall
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    Technology is not a panacea. It alone will not move your art forward. Only through developing your own aesthetic - free from the tools that create it - can you find new dimension to your work.

  4. #4

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    I would suggest anyone considering a ULF camera to check out Richard Ritter's cameras. http://www.lg4mat.net/ulfcamera.html
    Richard's cameras are VERY lightweight due to the carbon tubing and they can be converted from horizontal to vertical. His prices are more than reasonable and if you want, you can change format size by having Richard build you an new back and bellows. I own one of his 7x17 cameras and just love it. One of the things that drew me to this design was the possibility that I MAY want to shoot a larger negative in the future.

    Best wishes

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Hall View Post
    I love my Canham. I use the rear tilt and rarely anything else on the back. I like the rise and tilt on the front.
    Robert,

    I am in favor of rear swing too. It solves a lot of focussing problems.

    Regarding front movements, I only have used rise&fall untill now.

    Greetings,
    G

  6. #6
    RobertP's Avatar
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    Geared rear tilt. Especially with the 8x20 vertical back.

  7. #7

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    I appreciate the replies - thanks very much!

    As I spend a great deal of time in New England, Richard Ritter's products are the front-runners for a new purchase. I'd like to pick up a vintage 'cheaper' vintage camera, first, to try out the format.

    Apropos to that, I wonder if someone could comment on Korona vs F&S? Is one more stable than the other, for instance?

    TIA,
    Charley

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by c.d.ewen View Post
    I appreciate the replies - thanks very much!

    As I spend a great deal of time in New England, Richard Ritter's products are the front-runners for a new purchase. I'd like to pick up a vintage 'cheaper' vintage camera, first, to try out the format.

    Apropos to that, I wonder if someone could comment on Korona vs F&S? Is one more stable than the other, for instance?

    TIA,
    Charley
    The Korona is better then the F & S camera. Film holders for the Korona are easier to come by, new from S & S Holders. The Korona has longer bellows. That said having repaired a lot of these camera the first thing everyone would ask for is a swing and shift on the front of the camera. The next thing would be to tighten up the camera. Because of the way the standards are attached to the rail and ride in the rails slots there is a lot of play. Some of the play can be taken out but not all the standard have to move back and forth. When locking the focusing driver you are most times just locking the gear and knob, standard can still rock back and forth.

    Expanse; cameras Korona and F & S used with new bellows $2000 to $4000. Old bellows $1000 to $2500. The lower the amount paid for the camera the more that could be wrong with the camera. New bellows $500 and up if bellows were replaced. If rails are chewed up and have to be machined out and new tracking slots installed $450.

    Charley you say you spend a lot of time in New England give me a call when you are up here you can try a camera for day.

    Richard T Ritter

  9. #9

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    Richard:

    Thanks so much for the informative post. It's the kind of information I was looking for. Of course, we'll see how the F&S lovers respond

    And thanks for the offer to try a camera. I'm not sure when, but I'd love to take you up on that offer. I'm up and down I-91 every couple of weeks in the Winter. I'll give you a call when I can predict my schedule.

    Charley



 

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