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  1. #21
    barryjyoung's Avatar
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    I have read with great interst everything that has been written in this thread and thank all of the contributors for their time, their insight and their experience.

    I see two things that I need to modify in my original design. The large cameras I will be making will have a large and robust front standard made for large and heavy lenses. I need to come up with a way to move the back forward for wide lenses. These are two shortcomings that have been avoided due to your input on this thread.

    I also see that a cameras beauty is second to its functionality in ULF. That gives me the freedom to design with materials other than brass and wood.

    Thanks to all of you.
    Barry Young
    Young Camera Company

  2. #22

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    1. Would you buy a camera made from aluminum or would you only buy a wooden camera?

    Doesn't matter to me.

    2. What is more important rigidity or light weight?

    rigidity - I don't back pack, I use the Jeep to get closer to my subject.

    3. How important is it to you that the camera is beautiful? Is it a tool, or a showpiece or both?

    Beauty helps it hang and the house, but means nothing to the photography.

    4. What features can you live without? What features can you not live without?

    Live without- Rear Rise, Geared rails on every extension.
    Not live without - Tripple extension,give me as much bellows as possible, more then one tripod mounting hole

    5. Would you pay twice as much for a camera that had graduated movements and detent stops?

    ?

    6. Do you use triple extension bellows often enough to add 50% to the price?

    If I had to pay 50% more for tripple extension I wouldn't, I'd buy another camera that had it at no extra costs.

    7. Synthetic bellows are less expensive and more weather resistant than leather. Would bellows material be a deciding factor in your purchase and do you think there should be a choice?

    Just as long as there is enough bellows, doesn't matter what its made of.

    8. Do you REALLY need rise and fall on the back? $$$$$$

    I have it on my current cameras and have used it inlandscape work maybe once in the last ten years. And that was to try it. For a studio monrail type of camera, I wouldn't live without it. When I was doing that type of work I used it all the time.
    George Losse
    www.georgelosse.com

  3. #23
    Dave Wooten's Avatar
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    Enough extension to use 600 mm.

    The Ability to focus from the back.

    Lots of front rise.

    A "standard" lensboard large enough to hold the heavier lenses....i.e. The large toyo boards, they also have the step down adapter board using the smaller Toyo field camera boards....Toyo also has an adaptor board that fits the graflex boards. I like the little Toyo field camera boards better then the linhof as they are a bit beefier in the width, gives me a scotch more room on the 600 fugi etc...

    Richard Ritter is constructing an adaptor board for my Wisner cameras that will accept the small toyo boards...The omega boards are the same and quite inexpensive....

    As to rigidity and light weight...look at the Wisner 7 x 17 Tech....mine is about 12.5 lbs and meets all the above requirements...has many wonderful movements....you might find you use them in the "studio" as you get older and more feeble and begin to shoot still lifes etc..

    Also for 7 x 17....a 5 x 7 back is nice....you can also shoot 7 x 11, no problem and use your existing film holders.

    As George mentioned always include 2 mounting screw inserts....this is where a new idea would be nice....a better mounting system so the camera would nt turn....I put a second bolt in the place provided to stop this....the majestic head is slotted and allows the use of 2 mounting screws...If you can build a "Better Wisner or Phillips" at a better price, I think you d be in the ball park...used Wisner s are out there at @ 2500 and in pristine condition.

    I do like a beautiful camera.

    Here in the desert the heat is a factor on metal....I have insulating pads on my Majestic tripod legs....metal is hot and cold to the touch, also metal explansion can be a problem. Although I like the large metal toyo boards, I had a small problem getting the lensboard out of a Canham 11 x 14 camera here in the desert...(wonderful camera) ... the metal expanded enough that we had to remove the back and push the lens board out from the rear....metal to wood...I have both leather and synthetic bellows, I like the synthetic....bellows weight and sag have to be dealt with and the lighter the bellows the better...

    I would base the 7 x 17 on a good 5 x 7 design.

    Good luck Barry and keep up the good work!

    A tripod head would be nice....one designed for the camera...
    Last edited by Dave Wooten; 03-11-2007 at 11:07 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: spelun
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  4. #24

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    I really like Kerry Thalmann's "Franken"-Arca 7x17 conversion and I (personally) might one day start there if I decide to go anywhere near that format....(having accumulated a variety of spare older Arca bits (form 4x5s and 5x7s...) that could be modified like Kerry's. I like the lightweight but solid engineering elegance of the Arca type design. It really works well for me.

    A bit off topic: If anyone were to machine nice 4x5 standard frames from aluminium to replace the old plastic ones I'd be interested....

  5. #25

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    A 7x17 camera which one can change the orientation of the back from horizontal to vertical and vice versa easily would be nice. I think it would need a back that can be attached to the focusing base on either the long or short side (field changeable) and a higher front standard to accommodate the vertical orientation.

  6. #26
    Dave Wooten's Avatar
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    Vertical stability

    Quote Originally Posted by robsoe View Post
    A 7x17 camera which one can change the orientation of the back from horizontal to vertical and vice versa easily would be nice. I think it would need a back that can be attached to the focusing base on either the long or short side (field changeable) and a higher front standard to accommodate the vertical orientation.

    Or a 7 x 17 back for a 14 x 17 camera...
    [FONT="Arial Black"][/FONT]

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by robsoe View Post
    A 7x17 camera which one can change the orientation of the back from horizontal to vertical and vice versa easily would be nice. I think it would need a back that can be attached to the focusing base on either the long or short side (field changeable) and a higher front standard to accommodate the vertical orientation.
    robsoe,

    check out Richard Ritter's ULF cameras @
    http://www.lg4mat.net/ulfcamera.html

    Barry,

    I know Richard's original camera used aluminum for his rail system, but he abandoned it due to all of the problems associated with aluminum tripod legs, ie the don't get along too well with dirt!. So it depends on how you want to use aluminum in your camera.

  8. #28
    Jeremy's Avatar
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    Didn't Richard switch to carbon fiber?
    Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!

    blog
    website

  9. #29

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    A major plus for me would be the ability to place the back in either horizontal or vertical orientatioin with the banquet and panorma cameras like 7X17 and 12X20.

    Also, you should definitely consider the advantage of composites like carbon fiber. They beat aluminium in terms of rigidity at a given weight.

    Sandy

  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy View Post
    Didn't Richard switch to carbon fiber?
    Yes, he did

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