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  1. #11

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    Boxes for 8x20

    On a related note, consider Hollinger boxes - http://www.genealogicalstorageproduc...lafofibo1.html
    for boxes sized for storing your 8x20 negatives. Purchase buffered 16x20 paper and fold in half for negative storage in the Hollinger boxes. Sliding negatives into and out of plastic/mylar sleves will create static attracting dust to your negatives. You may also find one of the other sizes of their boxes useful for storing your prints depending on what size of paper on which you choose to print.

    Bob

  2. #12

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    Freestyle has 20 inch x 30 ft FB mural paper http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_pro...pid=1000001665

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Terence View Post
    I'm currently just trying to get my arms around using my Korona 8x20, so I'm not currently up to the challenge of learning alternative processes at this time.

    My question is, those of you shooting 8x20, or 7x17, etc., what do you print to when not doing an alternative process? Seems like I could cut down 16x20 print paper, but this leaves no room for a border. Same with using 20" roll paper from Ilford, etc.

    I'm looking to use a fiber-based paper, would like to have at least a little border to make matting easier, but don't want to waste huge amounts of paper, for economic and environmental reasons.
    Terence,

    Some of the alternative processes are remarkably simple. Coating and printing with processes like cyanotype and vandyke are much less complicated than using an 8X20 camera, and they give beautiful results. The materials are also quite inexpensive. And alternative processes open a wide door of creative possibilities not available with silver papers.

    Sandy King

  4. #14
    Jim Fitzgerald's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanking View Post
    Terence,

    Some of the alternative processes are remarkably simple. Coating and printing with processes like cyanotype and vandyke are much less complicated than using an 8X20 camera, and they give beautiful results. The materials are also quite inexpensive. And alternative processes open a wide door of creative possibilities not available with silver papers.

    Sandy King
    Sandy, this gives me some ideas also. I just need to get the bellows completed and my 8x20 will be done. I was thinking about other processes. From what I've read some of them sound confusing but I must agree probably no more difficult than building an 8x20 for your first project. I was thinking about Van Dyke or Kallitype when i do make the jump to alternative. I have read your articles on Unblinking Eye and I thank you for explaning it so well. I guess you just have to do it. I would have to start by using the Sun for my UV source. I'm busy building a Walnut 11x14 now so the light box will have to wait.

    Jim

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Fitzgerald View Post
    Sandy, this gives me some ideas also. I just need to get the bellows completed and my 8x20 will be done. I was thinking about other processes. From what I've read some of them sound confusing but I must agree probably no more difficult than building an 8x20 for your first project. I was thinking about Van Dyke or Kallitype when i do make the jump to alternative. I have read your articles on Unblinking Eye and I thank you for explaning it so well. I guess you just have to do it. I would have to start by using the Sun for my UV source. I'm busy building a Walnut 11x14 now so the light box will have to wait.

    Jim

    Jim,

    Yes, you just have to dive in. Processes like cyanotype and vandyke are really remarkably simple so you should not have a problem.

    And by all means use the sun if you don't have an artificial light source. Very inxpensive and very powerful.

    Sandy

  6. #16
    Jim Fitzgerald's Avatar
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    Sandy, thanks for the words of encouragement. I don't have a problem jumping into just about anything. I will post some results when I have them.

    Jim

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