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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by epatsellis View Post
    The dent, a piece of oak, a hole saw and a dowel and 5 mins at most would obviate that problem.
    That's good to know. I was scared you could cause lens separation doing such a thing and have avoided lenses with dents in the ring.

    at worst, a barrel lens, at best a CLA (which you should assume all used shutters need anyway), Paul Ebel or Carol Miller can take care of that for far less than $100. (or, about 2 hours to dissasemble, clean, reassemble and lube, if you're a novice, I can overhaul a compound in about an hour, haven't met one that was irrepairable if all the pieces are there yet)

    Heck, I'd consider buying it to have a shutter for my Componon, if I didnt' already have a DB mount for it, it should be a 5FS compound, huge front and rear threads, perfect for hacking (or "experimenting", if you're more PC)

    As noted, a lens that cover 12x20 (my experience is 16x20, at least for contact prints). well, if somebody here buys it and decides they dont' want the shutter, I'd be game.


    erie

    I have only ventured into a Prontor Press shutter, are compounds really that easy to work on? interesting.

  2. #12

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    I jumped at the opportunity to purchase this lens from a fellow LFer on another LF site for $250. It is a handy 11x14 lens. It is a large lens, convertible 360/620mm, has a small dent on the rear lens rim due to someone dropping it, mine came with a flange, only one leather lens cap and truly is a heavy lens. However, it sure shows a nice image on the gg and should produce some nice shots/contact prints. I think one who buys an old lens should plan on having the shutter serviced...that is just the cost for an older lens in a shutter.
    Everyone has a constitutional right to be an idiot; that does not mean you should exercise your right!

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by jerk151 View Post
    That's good to know. I was scared you could cause lens separation doing such a thing and have avoided lenses with dents in the ring.




    I have only ventured into a Prontor Press shutter, are compounds really that easy to work on? interesting.
    well, if you pound the crap out of it, maybe, light taps with a hardwood dowel and a form the same id as the od of the lens can work wonders, I've straightened some I thought were goners for sure, including a 135 fujinon that was bent at close to a right angle, ended up interrupting the threads, to get filters to thread easily, but that's an extreme example, most light dents straighten with ease. If you want to get all fancy, less than a $100 will buy you a lens vise that will straighten nearly any dent, and then you'll be buying up every dented lens known to man just to play with the new toy.

    Compounds are dirt simple, see the "inter lens shutter repair guide" at cameraeccentric's web site, they make a clockwork shutter seem overly complex. If everything is clean and not corroded, they almost have to work. (remember few, if any shots are taken much faster than 1 sec, in reality, after filter factors, most of my exposures are in the 2-10 sec. range. and the b & t functions are independent of the clockwork.


    erie


    erie
    Last edited by epatsellis; 06-11-2008 at 10:56 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by epatsellis View Post
    If you want to get all fancy, less than a $100 will buy you a lens vise that will straighten nearly any dent, and then you'll be buying up every dented lens known to man just to play with the new toy.
    That's funny, much like buying a large format camera to begin with.

    Compounds are dirt simple, see the "inter lens shutter repair guide" at cameraeccentric's web site
    erie
    I haven't seen this before, thanks. I will spend days in there. I do see that there is the missing "Prontor Press shutter" exploded picture. I've been looking for that for some time now. I get excited everytime someone shows me a new site with stuff like this, but no one seems to have the "repair a Prontor press"

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by jp80874 View Post
    Dan,

    My objection was that the lens was described as complete and functional. Had I not been looking to see if there was a ring I would not have known it was missing. They answered me, but at this point they have not updated the auction for the rest of the world.

    I also have a hard time with sellers who dismiss their error by saying it is not their specialty. If they feel qualified to say it is good and complete, I feel they should know that much. One buyer's opinion.

    John
    Did he say it was complete? Or did we assume it was complete? I could not find were he stated this in the listing. We should be glad that eBay allows sellers to post pictures of their goods. And we should be glad eBay has configured to system to allow potential buyers to query a seller for specific details prior to a sale. The seller in this case appears to specialize mostly in computer gear and game machines. To expect them to know everything about every item they sell is somewhat silly. As a seller myself, I definitely don't know everything about the items I sell. So, the seller uses pictures and adjectives to hopefully get the best price possible. I think that is reasonable. I think someone should buy the lens mentioned. After the sale is complete and any returns or refunds have taken place, then we can bash this seller or commend the seller on their conduct.
    "Lo único de lo que el mundo no se cansará nunca es de exageración." Salvador Dalí

  6. #16
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    It looks like it is missing the shutter retaining ring, not a flange. It's an easy fix, either fabricated or otherwise. I am sure that Flutots will have the ring.

    It's not a perfect lens, so don't pay a perfect price for it. In fact, don't pay more than 2/3 what it's worth in that condition, as a general bit of EBay advice. I would say keep your bid to 1/2 its value in this case, because of how uncertain the seller is of anything.

    As far as the comment that it is huge...of course it is huge. You didn't come in here asking which lens to get, so I assume you know all the benefits and drawbacks of the lens, as well as its size.

    For comparison, I bought the Sinar DB-mounted barrel version of this lens (a more modern Symmar-S f/6.8 version) in excellent condition for $385 after shipping. I get so much use out of it in studio that I consider the lens well worth the price, although I might have paid a bit too much. So, lets place its value at $350.

    Usually they go for about 150% to 200% of the DB price if they have a Copal 3 shutter. That makes it, let's say, a $700 lens if the modern S version in excellent condition. Now, take off a chunk of that because it is older, and take off a chunk because the shutter needs work, take off a chunk because you need to purchase the retaining ring, and take off a chunk because it has been dinged. Then, after all the chunks have been taken off, you might have a $300 lens (maybe). Bid 1/2 of that, or maybe as much as 2/3 or 3/4 if you are a risk taker.
    Last edited by 2F/2F; 06-11-2008 at 11:42 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  7. #17
    Ole
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    There were never retaining rings for the Compound 5's - only flanges. The lenses which take #5 shutters are too heavy for retaining rings, and flanges have longer threaded sections.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  8. #18
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    OK - it's missing the thingy what threads onto the threads.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  9. #19
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    Wow, what a surprise that so many have taken an interest. Thank you all.

    I shoot a 7x17 RH Phillips that should be rigid enough to hold the lens. I am doing a 100 picture series on the OH and Erie Canal for a book. I have 50 images approved to date, so lots more to do. Some of these shots have required extensive movements that have even gotten some vignetting out of my 12 inch Dagor. I bought the Dagor because I was getting vignetting on my 305 G Claron. Some of this may be operator learning how and some of it may be the challenge of the subject, architecture down in a hole or architecture around the locks..

    Sandy King wrote extensively here or LF Forum on the advantages of this model over the 355 G Claron if you can deal with the weight. I use a baby jogger so the weight of one lens is not a big deal. I am 68 years old and these old eyes like as much focusing light as they can get. The shutter is 5.6.

    My gut says wait for a better one.

    Thanks all.


    John Powers

  10. #20

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    if nothing else i got a head ache from reading most of his writing. i would not buy from him only cause i would not want to read all that crap....i am sure it says somewhere in there that if there is a problem the buyer is screwed.....but i may be wrong as i have not read it all.....
    photoshop is somewhere you go to buy photo equipment.


    lens photos here

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