20x24" pt/pd prints -hands on experience?

[Jeremy]

I also suggest the 4" Richeson magic brush for coating. I've printed a couple of 20x24s now and don't try to skimp on the solution as getting uneven coverage on the paper will cost more in the long run than just adding that extra mL or 2.

[Dave Wooten]

Making 20x24's is certainly possible, I just made my first 30x40's for a client. That is him drying his print :-)



For a 20x24 I use about 6ml of metal (12ml+- total solution) per print--you do the math on costs.

A few things to consider....

1. Use a strong enough paper, like arches platine.
2. Use flat bottom trays that have extra room in them so the paper doesn't rock back and forth against the sides...
3. Practice coating the paper with cyanotype and do some photograms, this will help you get used to coating and handling the big paper and you'll have fun with photograms...

Good Luck!

Corey

Nice Corey! I presume this is an enlarged neg?

[boyooso]

Thanks Dave,

No, this is from our special carbon fiber Chamonix camera, we had it made special :-)

I'm sorry I couldn't resist... Yes this was originally shot on 5x7.

Corey

[Zebra]

Corey,

That print looks beautiful!

Monty

[sanking]

I am currently on an island in the Strait of Georgia with limited internet access so I must be brief.

First, thanks to Dave for his generous comments about the carbon workshop at the Formulary and my carbon prints. I had a great time working with Dave and the other two students, including Ron Reeder who is one of the gurus on making digital negatives. It was also great to meet David Vestal and All Weber, who were there at the time conducting another workshp.

Second, as regards making large (20X24 is large, right?) I would encourage foks to consider making palladium or platinum toned kallitypes instead of directl pt./pd. prints. The end product is virtually identical as in toning the silver metal of a kallitype print is replaced by palladium or platinum. The cost is much less, and waste is small since you only tone the keeper prints.

Sandy King

[michael9793]

Sandy,
won't Ziatypes be good too.
I have been doing 8x20 palladium printing with Na2 and i will throw in a couple of drops of platinium. I use a glass rod because it takes so much less chemicals and I can control it easier.
my formula is:
25 Drops FeOx
22 drops PD
3 Drops Pt
0-7 Drops Na2 (10%)
I guess from that you could figure out something.

michael andersen

[RobertP]

Michael,Potassium chloroplatinite and sodium chloroplatinate will not mix. There was a thread awhile back about this. I hope you haven't been doing this for a long time. Because at over 2 grand an once for platinum you have been flushing some of it down the drain. If you can't find the thread here then look in Dick Arentz's book, second edition, page 148. If you are going to use Na2 do not use potassium chloroplatinite with it.

[michael9793]

Robert
I have his book and didn't see that. Thank you for the insight on that. you are right about the cost and anything to save money.

Mike A

[RobertP]

Michael, Pt/Pd printing is getting to be a very costly process. Anything to save a few bucks helps. Also I meant 2 grand an "ounce" not once. And to think they actually gave me a college degree...imagine that.

[michael9793]

Michael, Pt/Pd printing is getting to be a very costly process. Anything to save a few bucks helps. Also I meant 2 grand an "ounce" not once. And to think they actually gave me a college degree...imagine that.

even more sad is I read it as oz.

might try Ziatype to see how that works. it is cheaper and you are doing POP prints.

mike a