receipe and supply materials needed for collodion wet plate
I want to try wetplate collodion proces if there is a supply center to buy all the chemichals already mixed. Or if I need to mixed myself I need some help with receipes and supply
call me at 818 632 2035 I may be of help
Bostick and Sullivan carries a full line of wet plate supplies now--including premixed iodizer and collodion, developer, and varnish.
I need some supply center in Europe -I found the kit for collodion at Bostik and Sullivan but they don t ship internationaly
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Does anyone here know of someone in the St. Louis area that would give some 'hands on' instruction of this process? We have a photo club and there is more than one person that is interested in learning. One person was found and wanted to charge for a demo, that was ok with everyone but then the person didn't want others to get their 'hands on learning' which is what everyone wanted. We are not against paying someone though everyone is a student so budgets do need to be kept in mind. I just thought I would put it out there that someone is trying to learn and see what kind of networking here might do to help us out.
Thanks in advance, feel free to PM me or email me.
dont forget to check a few of the forums out there dedicated to wet plate.
John Coffer www.johncoffer.com/
Quinn Jacobson www.studioq.com/forum
Scully and Osterman www.collodion.org/
just to name a few. Recipes are very easy and it is best to work small batches, DO not make a liter of working collodion the first go around. Bostick and Sullivan do sell kits, and they work well for entry into the black paw world.
You can make a litre of unsalted collodion, this will last ages But, if trying out yes get a ready made kit as advised. Artcraft chemicals send abroad also and are incredibly quick, great for silver nitrate! http://www.artcraftchemicals.com/
Recipes and Stuff
I've actually just ordered some chemicals for my own little startup, though I've had some prior experience with wetplate. If you don't even know where to begin, perhaps a kit is a good way to go since mixing chemicals isn't even the half of it. But on the other hand, here's what I'm working from. To have my bases covered these recipes are taken directly from one of my instructors who took John Coffer's workshop a couple years ago.
As far as the salted collodion goes, there are two recipes that I'm familiar with, "Old Workhorse" and "Poe Boy". They both work though I haven't yet tried the "Poe Boy" recipe (those chemicals are currently on their way).
Salted Collodion Mixtures
“Old Workhorse” Collodion –
0.85 grams Cadmium Bromide
0.7 grams Ammonium Bromide
3 ml. distilled water
2 grams Potassium Iodide
100 ml. grain alcohol (190 proof) I use “Everclear” brand
100 ml. plain collodion USP (Flexible collodion will not work).
In a small glass beaker or jar dissolve the .85 grams of Cadmium Bromide and the 0.7 grams of Ammonium Bromide into 3 ml. of distilled water. Using a glass stir rod, mix until the Bromides dissolve completely (if you have trouble dissolving them mix over a low heat source). Then add the 2 grams of Pot. Iodide and again dissolve completely. Finally add the 100 ml. of grain alcohol. This comprises Part A
In a separate container (I use a “Ball” canning jar), add the 120 ml. of plain collodion and the 50 ml. of ether. Always add the ether to the collodion and not the other way around. Stir well.
Finally, add the Part A mixture to the Part B and shake/stir to mix. Let sit for at least several days to allow collodion to “clear” and settle. Sediment will develop on bottom of bottle. Never shake or stir this up before use, as it will cause problems. I pour off the “cleared” collodion into a smaller “screw-to” bottle once it has cleared.
NOTE: NEVER POUR COLLODION DOWN THE DRAIN! IT WILL PERMANENTLY STOP IT UP!
"Poe Boy" (as per Coffer's website)
240 ml plain collodion
300 ml denatured alcohol
6ml distilled water
3g pot. bromide
5g pot iodide.
add the alcohol to the collodion.
add pot bromide to the distilled water till dissolved. then add the pot iodide to that mix till dissolved. add this mix to the above mix or alcohol and collodion.
Let it set for a few days. flow away!
Silver Bath –
36 grams of silver nitrate
400 ml. distilled water
Add silver nitrate crystals to distilled water…mix well….filter through coffee filter (or similar)
(before using for the first time, coat a plate of glass with collodion and let sit in bath overnight, remove the next morning and silver bath is “seasoned” for use).
Developer For Positives–
100 ml. distilled water
4 grams ferrous sulfate
6 ml. glacial acetic acid
4 ml. grain alcohol
Sugar Developer (To be honest I'm not sure what this is for, perhaps an alternative recipe?)
750 ml. distilled water
26 grams ferrous sulfate
25 ml. glacial acetic acid
20 ml. grain alcohol
½ cup of white sugar
Mix together in the order shown.
Filter through standard coffee filter into “screw-top” bottle…
I filter three separate times.
Potassium Cyanide Fixer –
5 grams of potassium cyanide
450 ml. of distilled water
Potassium Cyanide is a DEADLY POISON
Mix and store in an airtight PLASTIC container that is well labeled and out of reach of children.
Do not allow KCn (Pot. Cya.) to come in contact with any acids…will create deadly cyanide gas.
Always wear rubber gloves when working with KCn and do not keep food or drink in the area as you work with it.
“Hypo” Fixer –
100 grams sodium thiosulfate
500 ml. distilled water
Dissolve sodium thiosulfate crystals completely in water.
An optional mixture known as "Trick of the Trade" allows you to add more contrast to plates after you've fixed them in cases of overexposure.
“Trick Of The Trade”
(Reducer for overexposed/overdeveloped plates)
1 gram Potassium Ferracyanide
150 ml distilled water
150 ml Hypo fixer
Mix well…flow quickly over plate and wash off within a second or two.
Continue flowing/rinsing until desired “reduction” is achieved…
It is easy to go too far, so be careful not to burn through image.
Only stays good for about 1 hour after mixing.
These should get you images, but now you need to protect them with a varnish. I've heard you can use a regular varnish bought from a hardware store but if I'm wrong someone please correct me.
Sandarac Plate Varnish –
220 ml 190 proof Grain Alcohol
(you can substitute denatured alcohol)
38 grams Gum Sandarac
22 ml Lavender Oil NF
2 ml distilled water
Add the sandarac to the alcohol in a mason jar (or similar).
Cap securely and periodically shake vigorously on and off over the course of a few days until the gum sandarac has all dissolved (leaving only the bits of bark, dirt, and bugs).
Add the lavender oil and water and mix.
Let the capped jar sit for several days to “settle out”.
Finally decant (draw from the top) the cleared varnish, using a lab pipette, an eye dropper, or a small “baster”, and filter it (using a standard coffee filter) into a separate stoppered bottle
Again, all actual recipe content and instructions are ripped shamelessly from my instructor's worksheets. Everything but my own little chime-ins are his and probably Coffer's by proxy.
Having said all of this, you can choose one of the two salted collodion routes, a developer, one of the two fixers (while the cyanide mixture is ideal for bright creamy positives the "hypo" recipe isn't a bad place to start) and a silver solution will get you an image. Once everything is properly rinsed, you varnish it and bing bong bing you've got a plate.
Now, for my own question to anyone who can answer. For all recipes that call for grain alcohol, I know that 190 proof Everclear works but all I can get is 151 proof which I've already read is no good. I know denatured alcohol works just about as well (as per Coffer's site) but I've heard if it is cut with too much methanol it doesn't work as well. I don't know the specifics. Coffer states that he uses "Sunnyside" brand denatured alcohol and I just wanted to know if anyone has used or heard of using "S-L-X Denature Alcohol" by "W.M. Barr Branded Sales" successfully as a substitute. That would be ideal since I and anyone else here can just go to Home Depot and buy it for practically nothing. I really appreciate any feedback and if anything in this post seems inaccurate feel free to let it be known! Thanks in advance.
That SLX stuff from Wal Mart works fine. Just get it out of the metal can after opening; put it in plastic or glass, the metal will sometimes form rust after the container is opened. You are correct that the 151 will not work. Actually if you are good in chemistry, you could make it work, as it contains too much water and that would need to be distilled out or appropriate amount of ether added to "even" it out.