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I did a search for Kodak glass plates. I found where in 2002 Kodak was listing T-100 and Technical Pan as available in glass plates. I'm not sure that glass plates for scientific purposes have been discontinued even now.
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 Originally Posted by rjmeyer314
I did a search for Kodak glass plates. I found where in 2002 Kodak was listing T-100 and Technical Pan as available in glass plates. I'm not sure that glass plates for scientific purposes have been discontinued even now.
You may find they've been sub-contracted like Kodak chemistry, etc.
Ian
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So, what ISO would home made dry plates be? I've heard they are about ISO 1.0, or ISO 0.5?
Kent in SD
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 Originally Posted by daleeman
Is there a following of dry plate shooters out there who long for supplies?
I'd definitely like some. I still have some old plates with emulsion on them and have had a ball with them. For one thing, you can make decent b&w projection slides with them, which is great for those of us who don't think powerpoint can do justice to an analogue image....
For what I have been aiming to do, it probably makes more sense to coat the plates locally, but I'd be interested in the glass at least. The only thing is, I wonder if ordinary glass is the way to go anymore. For those wanting to do alt processes, you'd probably want fused quartz or such, or perhaps plexiglas/acrylic (which is unfortunately very static prone). But the nice things about plexi would be the weight, and they'd be a lot less fragile.
Just thinking out loud...
Regarding (wetplate) collodion, why exactly does one have to shoot immediately? What if you vacuum sealed it on the spot while coating? Curious if it'd be possible to make collodion plates that you could, you know, unwrap and use on the fly.
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Ilford recently announced the launch of a limited range of glass plates for the holographic market - Not cheap, but I believe that Freestyle sell them.
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 Originally Posted by Two23
So, what ISO would home made dry plates be? I've heard they are about ISO 1.0, or ISO 0.5?
Kent in SD
Oh, heavens, no. At the 45th parallel, this recipe
http://www.thelightfarm.com/cgi-bin/...tent=30Dec2011
gets 6 to 40, depending on time of year and time of day, and to a lesser extent, altitude. (It is impossible to place a single ISO number on anything but panchromatic films. If you read otherwise, this is a red flag to suspect the experience of the source.)
d
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 Originally Posted by dwross
Oh, heavens, no. At the 45th parallel, this recipe
gets 6 to 40, depending on time of year and time of day, and to a lesser extent, altitude. (It is impossible to place a single ISO number on anything but panchromatic films. .)
d
How on earth can I shoot with a "film" if I don't know what the ISO is? The range 6-40 is about three stops! It would take a serious investment in time to get a shot off, and then the exposure is a crap shoot. Are the panchromatic plate emulsions more predicitible?
Kent in SD
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Kent:
The non-panchromatic films are like the old tungsten films - they have different sensitivities depending on the colour temperature of the light.
So you need to know those sensitivities, and the colour temperature of the prevailing light, in order to accurately determine exposure.
Matt
“Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”
Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2
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 Originally Posted by Two23
How on earth can I shoot with a "film" if I don't know what the ISO is? The range 6-40 is about three stops! It would take a serious investment in time to get a shot off, and then the exposure is a crap shoot..
Welcome to the world of colourblind emulsion; patience and perseverance required!
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just pull out the darkslide while doing a sunny 16 test. it's just like a test strip. I did this to find out that liquid light is approximately ISO 0.50 to 0.75
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