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  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheToadMen View Post
    Almost full moon overhere. I would like to make some nightly exposures (don't know what or where yet).
    I'm gonna shoot ISO 400. What would be an appropriate aperture and shutter speed?
    Too long an exposure will make the moon blurry because it moves too fast, I guess?

    Any tips?
    For a moon shot, you'll need a shutter of about 1/200th plus or minus, as well as F/8 or f/11 (this is on a 35mm camera) and more than 300mm lens to get anything useful. Probably closer to 500mm or 600mm ... if you have a 300mm lens and a 2x extension that's probably best. If you have the 2x extension AND 400mm+ lenses... well can I come?? haha

  2. #32
    TheToadMen's Avatar
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    shooting at full moon

    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    For a moon shot, you'll need a shutter of about 1/200th plus or minus, as well as F/8 or f/11 (this is on a 35mm camera) and more than 300mm lens to get anything useful. Probably closer to 500mm or 600mm ... if you have a 300mm lens and a 2x extension that's probably best. If you have the 2x extension AND 400mm+ lenses... well can I come?? haha
    You're welcome! If you start swimming right now, you'll be here in time for the full moon in two days.

    About shooting the moon, I think I wasn't clear. I don't want to make a close-up but shoot the scenery at night with the moon in the picture, without the moon streaking or blowing out ...
    Any tips on that subject??
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  3. #33
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    The moon will streak with exposures longer than about 1s depending on your focal length. It moves its own diameter every 2 minutes, so that should tell you how much it smears in a long exposure. It's fast.

    Getting the moon to a midtone (and therefore revealing the details in it requires a sunny-11 exposure, e.g. ISO100 1/100s f/11. It's a short exposure because the moon is in full sun! However that's likely to be a gross underexposure for your foreground scene at night which could be several seconds (city) to an hour (dim landscape).

    Here's an example with multiple exposures. All are ISO100 f/11; the detailed moons are each 1/125 and three minutes apart, the really bright moon (and background city) is 4s.

  4. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by polyglot View Post
    The moon will streak with exposures longer than about 1s depending on your focal length. It moves its own diameter every 2 minutes, so that should tell you how much it smears in a long exposure. It's fast.

    Getting the moon to a midtone (and therefore revealing the details in it requires a sunny-11 exposure, e.g. ISO100 1/100s f/11. It's a short exposure because the moon is in full sun! However that's likely to be a gross underexposure for your foreground scene at night which could be several seconds (city) to an hour (dim landscape).

    Here's an example with multiple exposures. All are ISO100 f/11; the detailed moons are each 1/125 and three minutes apart, the really bright moon (and background city) is 4s.
    He has 400 film hence why I said 200/th second. But I would get some blur on close ups any slower than 1/30 if I recall, it's been a while, I lost my interest when I realized to get a really blow yoir eyes out shot I needed an 800mm lens


    ~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by polyglot View Post
    Here's an example with multiple exposures. All are ISO100 f/11; the detailed moons are each 1/125 and three minutes apart, the really bright moon (and background city) is 4s.
    Thanks, that's a kind like the multi exposure I was thinking about.
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    He has 400 film hence why I said 200/th second. But I would get some blur on close ups any slower than 1/30 if I recall, it's been a while, I lost my interest when I realized to get a really blow yoir eyes out shot I needed an 800mm lens
    ~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    I once used a Russian 1000 mm (mirror) lens with an 1.4 extender on my Nikon camera for shooting the moon and it worked great.
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  7. #37
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    Sorry... to answer the actual question, try a long exposure with the moon below the horizon and a fast exposure with the moon in the scene.

    If you're a cheater, shoot the moon exposure with a really long focal length and then the scenery with a short focal length; the moon will look huge.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    He has 400 film hence why I said 200/th second. But I would get some blur on close ups any slower than 1/30 if I recall, it's been a while, I lost my interest when I realized to get a really blow yoir eyes out shot I needed an 800mm lens
    Well obviously adjust your shutter and aperture to suit. 1/200 will require f/11 to f/16 to get good detail in the moon at ISO400...

    If you got blur below 1/30, it's almost certainly a tripod-technique issue, e.g. not waiting long enough for mirror vibrations to damp. It only moves 1/3600 of its diameter in that time!

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by polyglot View Post
    Sorry... to answer the actual question, try a long exposure with the moon below the horizon and a fast exposure with the moon in the scene.

    If you're a cheater, shoot the moon exposure with a really long focal length and then the scenery with a short focal length; the moon will look huge.
    I also have a roll of Fuji Provia 1600 (@ 800 ISO) to finish in my Nikon F90x (= N90s in USA) so I'll experiment with these suggestions as well, thanks!
    But it won't be tonight ....

    CLOUDS ALL OVER !!!

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    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheToadMen View Post
    CLOUDS ALL OVER !!!
    Tonight was a clear night and almost a full moon. So I took out my Nikon F2 just now (01.00 AM) with an old 35 mm f/2 lens. It was loaded with 400 ASA film about 3 months ago, but I don't know which type anymore. Could be colour or B&W film, but I'm guessing colour.
    I made some shots of the trees for about 4 minutes, light painting the trees with a flash light from several directions.
    I also made a few shots of the moon with a modern 400 mm lens and a 1.4 converter attached. I shot the moon for 1/200 s. and then a landscape for 4 s as a double exposure.
    I wonder if any will come out all right.
    I also made a few shots of the moon on Fuji Provia 1600 @800 with my F90x (N90s in USA) and the 400 mm x 1.4 lens, but no double exposures, since I don't think/know that the F90x is capable of double exposures.
    Last edited by TheToadMen; 07-20-2013 at 06:26 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

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