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  1. #11

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    Lars, Thanks. Ofcourse it is nice when people can enjoy it for a longer period of time but I also like it when the image changes in front of you as you were watching a film.
    Thats why I would like the proces go a bit faster. (maybe change black between 10 min and an hour?)

  2. #12
    darkosaric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sema View Post
    The fade to black sounds good but it seems completely sold out
    You can try to find very first flush of impossible PX100 films on ebay, they were very unstable because of killer crystals, in a week you get from normal picture something like this:

    http://darkosaric.deviantart.com/art...tals-167898038

    Not exactly what you a looking for, but maybe it is worth of try also.

  3. #13

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    killer crystals, I like the sound of that!
    but wont that process continue in the dark?
    i can imagen the polaroids once exposed, continue going black in the envelop.

  4. #14
    darkosaric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sema View Post
    killer crystals, I like the sound of that!
    but wont that process continue in the dark?
    i can imagen the polaroids once exposed, continue going black in the envelop.
    Yes, process will go on no matter it is dark or no, only thing that was helping was to peal off back of photo (what I did in this link above - to stop decaying).

  5. #15

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    good luck with your experiments !



    - john
    Last edited by jnanian; 02-16-2012 at 01:12 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    im empty, good luck

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by sema View Post
    Lars, Thanks. Ofcourse it is nice when people can enjoy it for a longer period of time but I also like it when the image changes in front of you as you were watching a film.
    Thats why I would like the proces go a bit faster. (maybe change black between 10 min and an hour?)
    I attempted something similar to this with some salt prints in exhibition and featured in an article “A Sideways Movement in Time” published in the Photographic Journal. I see what you are trying to do and it is an interesting challenge, but I think without some sort of chemical pod that bursts and spreads developer over the print as it is pulled out of the envelope, this will be difficult to achieve.

    “The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”

    Francis Bacon

  7. #17

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    Does anyone know what the difference will be when I use normal, bariet or albumen paper? (or as a photogram in the sun or develop without fix)
    Will the albumen go black faster and why?
    Thnx

  8. #18

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    The problem with photo paper is that it is (relatively) not very light sensitive. What if you used film instead, developing and stopping but not fixing it?

  9. #19

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    hi paul

    the think about not fixing a sheet of processed film
    is the image will be milky a sheet of photo paper"lumenized"
    might take a little time to get an image, but it is well worth the wait

    of course YMMV
    im empty, good luck

  10. #20

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    I see this working quite easily: unfixed print in a black, light-tight envelope.

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