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  1. #21

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    You could form the glass around a stainless or Titanium insert. A ceramic might be better if you went this way.

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Can you drill and tap glass? IDK.
    Drill yes, tap no.

    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    I have only one bent blade. It was the 16" blade to show how bad the problem is. The shop has never given me any of the other bent failures.
    Well, you could have them make it the most-economical-yet-not-dimensionally-stable way under the assumption that the purchaser would true it.

  3. #23
    ben-s's Avatar
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    Another idea just came to me.
    Machine the frame accurately in steel, ali, or low grade stainless, and then e-coat it.
    E-coating (aka electrophoretic paint) produces a very uniform paint finish, usually around 20µm thick.
    It is good for 1000+ hours salt spray, so you'd be safe on the corrosion front.
    IDK what it would do to the emulsion though.

    The process is widely used by the automotive industry, so it's easily availlable. Plants are often willing to run small batches of products through between major runs, as the paint stagnates if it is not kept moving.

    I guess it's an option worth checking out.
    there is a bit more info here: (scroll down to electrophoresis) http://www.alu-info.dk/Html/alulib/modul/A00344.htm
    Lens caps and cable releases can become invisible at will. :D

  4. #24
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    The shop I use does painting of many items, so I'll have to look into this one. Thanks Ben. They never suggested it to me. Maybe it is because they thought the paint might chip or react chemically.

    I'll have to talk to them about it.

    PE

  5. #25

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    How about having a casting done and then milling an edge on it? I have a friend who is a machinist and has the castings done in china and then does the final machining in the US.
    art is about managing compromise

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by avandesande View Post
    How about having a casting done and then milling an edge on it? I have a friend who is a machinist and has the castings done in china and then does the final machining in the US.
    I can cast most of these, except for the stainless. I think that the initial mold is the most expensive part. I guess I'm going to have to look into a lot more options.

    Thanks all.

    PE

  7. #27
    richard ide's Avatar
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    Hi,
    Just to add to the confusion:
    You should be able to have the part made by investment casting with very little tuning or machining required. And no stress in the blade to cause warping. I assume you use type 316. I fooled around with a similar project for a client; applying dye to large clear areas of ortho film keeping the same colour density. I came up with a viable solution but up came budget concerns so the project was cancelled.

  8. #28
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Yep, that is my big problem. Budget concerns. Second biggest is time.

    PE

  9. #29

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    Photo Engineer,

    Look in your phone book under "Metallizing". You could make your blades out of any easily machined steel and have them 'spray welded' with SS or titanium, then machined. These shops are normally near airports. Metallizing is also used to save really large castings and make large rollers for printing presses (copper on steel).

    Just a thought.

  10. #30
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    Phfitz;

    I did exactly that to find several places. And, it is near the airport.

    None ever mentioned spray welding though. Thanks.

    PE

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