Many people have wondere about dry ferrotypes other than Rockland kits, the only secret ingredient is the addition of .5 gm Ammoniumthiocyonate to each ounce of Dektol developer at a 1:1 working strength, develop 2 min.
Exposure test for me was F:32, 8 sec, sunny day.
I'd be interested in this if you had some more information. This is painfully vague. Would you care to be more forthcoming with details about what you mean?
Very interesting, I have not heard this before. What emulsion did you use?
By all means, fill us in. This is just enough info to make the mouth water.
Originally Posted by TheFlyingCamera
[FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]
The emulsion used was Rockland AG plus and one I made ny self from the Kodak AJ-12 instructions. The home made emulsion seemed to work a little better. The exposures : F:32, 8 sec, sun.
I first used Dektol developer diluted 1:2, Then 1:1 and got a better image. The next time the development will be done with undiluted developer along with the thiocyanate.
The plates used where jappaned iron plated for the collodion process, but some times the emulsion peeled of when drying and some times it stayed put.
I gave the last plates a coat of urithane spray and that caused a chemical fog on the jappaned plates and the black trophy aluminum plates as well.
I have albumen subbed some black aluminum plates this morning and will put them to the test. The backs of the plates had also been varnished to prevent chemical reactions with the developer.
I will let you know how things turn out.
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With these rather primitive emulsions, it is possible that you might get dichroic fog.
Well...this is interesting
The tests today have given very unexpected results, it seems that the speed of the plates has risen dramaticaly scince the last time.
The emulsion used was AG Plus with no additives, plates used are jappaned iron, and trophy aluminum with poly urithane coating. The first time I used a plate with urithane they came out fogged, but I think that was due to a different emulsion beeing used. This time I only made 4 plates so as not to waste material incase of chemical problems. The first plate was exposed at the same speed as the first trials, about .7,(f:11, 6 sc, overcast) the plate was extreamly fogged over and thaught...oh crap! But looking more carefully I noticed the corners where the plate was blocked from light had no fogging at all. This lead me to to the hopefull thaught that maybe, just maybe, the thing could have been over exposed, three more tries followed, each one with less and less exposure. By the time I got to the last plate the exposure was reduced to F:16, 1-1.5 sec. This translated to a speed of about .12, and still a bit over exposed and clear shadow areas.
The first exposures last week had been made at f:32, 8 sc. now its way faster. I dont know what is happening but it is good. More testing is needed, maybe the urithane on the two plates and the aspaltum japan on the other two had a sensitising effect when heated during coating and released sulphur ions(just a thaught). the emulsion had not been remelted over and over, it was transferred to a diferent container so small portions can be taken out and melted.
Things are getting interestinger and interestinger.
Correction, the speed should be 12 not .12
Originally Posted by kevin klein
It is possible that the plates are gaining speed due to sulfur in the formula or due to reduction sensitization from any reducing agent in the formula.
This can happen if the formula contains no stabilizer. It depends and not knowing the formula makes diagnosis difficult. Using those japanned aluminum plates does not help. Generally, aluminum is not good with photo products such as emulsions. Some lacquers contain harmful chemicals as well.
Try it on a plain glass plate and see what happens.
The aluminum plates are black coated trophy engraving plates with a varnish coated on the back to prevent reactions. Also they have been coated on the working surface with a brush on urithane varnish to give the gelatin something to hold on to or it will peel right off when drying. Sometimes the drying emulsion will pull the japan from the plate.
Spray urithane is also being tested again.
Two of the plates done today have shown some unexpeted results. The first two are over exposed but the other two that looked over exposed actualy toned down during drying and one is under exposed while the other is fairly good. This might have happened because they did not get washed other than a quick rinse and put aside for reclaiming. Upon seeing the change in image I speculate that there was still fixer remaining in the surface and cleared the shadow areas and gave them a better wash, but it is still better to get a good image right off with out having to guess.
Eight more 1/6th plates have been coated for tomorrows run, will let you know.