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  1. #1

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    16mm handmade emulsion

    I have finally got a tough gelatin capable of traveling through my 16mm camera. Unfortunately, as a bad experimenter, I tried the pre-hardening before the gelatin was dried and it destroyed most of the emulsion. The other batch I have that is better coated i actually used a paint brush to do so. Anyway, here are some scanned samples (with a flatbed scanner):

    http://jcsmr.anu.edu.au/~rleao/DH_pics/Film_stripe1.jpg

    http://jcsmr.anu.edu.au/~rleao/DH_pics/Film_stripe2.jpg

    http://jcsmr.anu.edu.au/~rleao/DH_pics/Film_stripe3.jpg

    Now, with my other batch, I'll try to develop as reversal and then project it, then it comes another problem, while the emulsion survived the camera, I ain't sure if it would survive a 16mm projector, so, my question is, what could I use to toughen it to peel off? Could I spray lacquer or something like it after the development? What do you guys think? Many thanks.

    richardson

  2. #2
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Wow. It's obviously really funky, but it would also look really cool projected, if you can get enough contrast to make it look good on screen.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  3. #3
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    In the first sample, Kodak edge markings are clearly visible. This indicates that there is some of the original emulsion present in a form viable enough to image this edge mark. Could this be contributing to some of the image? To some of the problems? IDK, but it should not be there.

    You should add hardener just prior to coating the emulsion. You can add a humectant such as sorbitol. Many films are lacquered after processing to protect them. Kodachrome is one of those films.

    PE

  4. #4

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    Could it be that he is contact printing a 16mm negative? onto his homemade emulsion?

  5. #5
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    It says "survived a camera" so I assume it did. IDK, and that is why I ask. If emulsion remained behind from the previous film, it would certainly mess up the experiment in one way or another.

    PE

  6. #6
    htmlguru4242's Avatar
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    Quite interesting. I agree with David that it looks a little funky, but PE has a good point about the previous emulsion being still on the base. Definitely keep this up though and let us know how it goes!.

    I wonder if you could find raw 16mm clear base to coat onto ...

  7. #7
    Jerevan's Avatar
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    Cool project! I wonder if http://www.filmotec.de/ could sell clear 16 mm base?
    “Do your work, then step back. The only path to serenity.” - Lao Tzu

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    It says "survived a camera" so I assume it did. IDK, and that is why I ask. If emulsion remained behind from the previous film, it would certainly mess up the experiment in one way or another.

    PE
    Hi PE,

    I should have explained, the kodak label is printed in the leader (I used clear polyester leader from kodak, not old film, so no remaining emulsion). The leader is black also because I inverted the scanned images in Gimp (they were actually negatives). I used sorbitol in the original formula. I'll try the lacquer before projecting it. Many thanks!

  9. #9
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Best of luck to you.

    Any estimate of the speed?

    PE

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Best of luck to you.

    Any estimate of the speed?

    PE
    Thanks! I did some diffuse measurements (it was overcast) and using 16fps (1/30) and f4 i'd say ~15.

    And Jerevan, thanks for the tip! I just found out that they have precoated acetate clear leader!

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