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Thread: On the brink

  1. #11
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Kirk;

    At the present time, IDK if there will ever be a volume II or even a second edition.

    PE

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    At the present time, IDK if there will ever be a volume II or even a second edition.
    So where can we pre-order copies?
    Would hate to miss out...
    :o

  3. #13
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    No preorders at this time. I am still working on the method of distribution and thus no way to take preorders.

    Sorry.

    PE

  4. #14

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    Kirk, Would your perfected formula for a T-grain emulsion be included in Volume II ?
    Ron, Don't you think that glass plates would survive the dye bleach process ?
    Bill

  5. #15
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    Bill;

    Glass plates will survive, but my first effort will require aligning 3 separate color positives to test the system and you cannot register glass plates.

    PE

  6. #16
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    Very exciting, I'll wait no matter how long for such a book

    I'd love to see the colour stuff, I was looking over some of the dye bleach formulas or starters given and that Azochrome patent mentioned in some other thread, and it kinda seems like the chemistry for it is difficult to get your hands on.

    If there's no Vol II or 2nd edition, I request an inclusion of colour, of course the more you can include, the merrier, though I understand that choices need to be made for time to get any of it done in the first plac.

  7. #17
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    For those interested.

    A simple color coating experiment:

    Coat 50 mg/ft square of the Azo dye Chicago blue (or any suitable Azo dye actually, for example Tartrazine will give a yellow image). In this mix include the equivalent of 50 mg/ft square of Silver as Silver Halide. The gelatin should be at about 250 mg/ft square.

    Coat on a good paper support or film with a high level of formalin hardener.

    Allow to cure for up to 1 week for best hardness.

    Expose
    Develop in D-19 for about 1 minute.
    Rinse for about 30" in running water.
    Bleach in a dye bleach solution with Phenazine at about 100 mg/L and sulfuric acid to pH 1.0. until the image clears.
    Rinse for about 30" in running water.
    Fix in any fixer
    Wash normally for a paper or film.

    Dry

    This should give you a positive image in color based on the chosen dye. Chicago blue will be bluish and tartrazine will be yellowish.

    PE

  8. #18
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    This sounds suspiciously easy and simple.


    Where do you get your phenazine from?


    Silly question.. but does this mean one could use other random food dyes? Like Tumeric?... or super market food colouring accounting for the dilution? :P


    edit Im guessing that's a big no, and only what I see here - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Azo_dyes

    I just fond that Queen's Green Food Colouring contains E102 (tartrazine) mixed with E133, I think the yellow food colour is E107 as well, which wiki says is an azo dye.. alright part way there to actually attempting something..

    Further looking on the bottle says it also contains some citric acid and sodium benzoate..
    Last edited by Athiril; 06-07-2010 at 01:39 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  9. #19

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    Makes me wonder too, could vegetable matter, like saffron or yellow primrose, be used to create easy-to-make diazo type printing paper?
    I know van der Grinten (Océ) used Primulin to start them on their way to simple and easy to use copying papers.

  10. #20
    Athiril's Avatar
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    Black also containes E102 (along with E123 and E133)

    O/T: E123... 'but since 1976 it has been banned in the United States by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) as it is a suspected carcinogen. The FDA showed a significant increase in cancer among aged female rats that had been fed large doses of the dye.'

    ...err why do we still have it in Australia? Also listed as 'forbidden' and known to cause disease beyond any doubt on the E number page on wiki.

    edit: Back to the green food colouring, E102 is listed first, and 'total dye stuffs' is 2.1%, so I figure it should contain the majority of that 2.1%, so >1.05%... so ~0.5ml per ft square perhaps?

    I wonder if they do work, will it stay green? or use only the tartarzine part and be yellow? Hmm.
    Last edited by Athiril; 06-07-2010 at 02:22 PM. Click to view previous post history.

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