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iso propal or everclaear
My memory has failed me. Which is the correct vehicle for thymol? Ethanol, 2-propanol (pure), 2-propanol (70%) or water?
Joe
Last edited by JOSarff; 02-27-2011 at 05:55 PM. Click to view previous post history.
Reason: enlarged quetion
There is no such thing as taking too much time, because your soul is in that picture. -Ruth Bernhard
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Isopropyl works just fine. I prefer to use 100% (or electronics grade 99.953). Thymol is insoluble in water.
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There is no such thing as taking too much time, because your soul is in that picture. -Ruth Bernhard
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As long as the alcohol is not denatured, either can be used.
PE
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A tangential note: Thymol should be considered an unnecessary ingredient for almost all emulsions we're likely to make and use. It's a preservative, and basically a carry-over from the days before reliable refrigeration and when gelatin was more likely to be contaminated with odd bacteria. If you make small, frequent batches of emulsion and use them within a week or two, you won't need a preservative. I strongly recommend this for two reasons.
1) Making good emulsions is all about practice, practice, practice. If you make up big batches, infrequently, you'll likely never learn the 'tricks', which are nothing more than the application of experienced observation.
2) The characteristic curve of an emulsion gradually changes during long storage, preserved or not. Any attempts at standardizing to a contrast grade will be made much harder unless you also standardize to a pre-coating storage time range.
d
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I would tend to think that preservative not only serves a purpose in 'wet' emulsion, but also adds a measure of protection to the finished, dried product. Better safe than sorry AFAIC. Besides, that certain Thymol aroma is one of the darkroom fragrances that tells me I'm doing something
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Well, the Thymol eventually evaporates out of the finished, dry coating, but it can help. It is present in packaged sheets and the preservative is certainly present in commercial products. If you open a package of Ilford paper, you can smell the phenol which is what is used as a preservative in their B&W papers. That is so strong and toxic when used in the home darkroom that I don't suggest it, but it is used by Ilford and Schoeller as well in large scale operations. Kodak does not use either Thymol or Phenol. They used equally potent materials. I'll comment on them soon.
However, there is another important fact involved in this that I did not mention earlier.
All batches of fine photo grade gelatins are packed with an assay, just like fine chemicals. Only in this case, it is a bioassay that includes things such as tuberculin bacilli, staph, strep, E. Coli and etc per unit weight. This means that the dry gelatin contains a certain amount (printed on the assay), per specified unit of dry gelatin. Well, when you mix your gelatin in warm water those microorganisms begin to multiply unless you stop them. I don't know about you, but I don't like handling gelatin without some sort of preservative there to retard their possible growth!
PE
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As far as microbes are concerned: "there's always room for Jello!"
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And us carbon printers toss in a bunch of sugar, too!
Does the alcohol itself help keep the beasties away (I use about 10ml of 100% isopropyl per 750 ml of glop)?
And does the exposure time under the UV lights (even tho it is not the deadlier UVC) help kill the beasties?
At least with LF landscape, a bad day of photography can be a good day of exercise.
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