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  1. #31
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Koehrer View Post
    Didn't Hasselblad also have a couple of specialty bodies a while back Arc & somethin' else? One was basically a bellows with magazine & lens mount.
    Yes they did- but those cameras are extremely limited in their bellows draw - basically they're dedicated wideangle to normal bodies. They're also highly sought-after, and very expensive.

  2. #32
    Peter Williams's Avatar
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    I think that you should also look at the Fuji GX680 cameras. I believe that they meet all of the requirements that you gave and they have become extermely affordable over the past year or so. The GX680 II is my favorite camera and I have had some good success with macro shots with it. You can get extension rails and extended bellows to really rack the lens out and still have lens movements. AFAIK, this is the only MF camera that has all of the features you are looking for. It's also a fantastic camera for portraits if that mood ever strikes.
    If you can't answer a man's argument, all is not lost; you can still call him vile names.
    - Elbert Hubbard

  3. #33
    Struan Gray's Avatar
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    The Novoflex tilt-shift bellows is compatible with MF cameras up to 6x7:

    http://www.novoflex.de/english/html/fr_ema5.htm

  4. #34
    Jim Jones's Avatar
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    Long ago, when photographers spent more time improvising accessories than money buying them, simple wire frames were sometimes used for very fast focusing and framing. I've also used the Pentax Copy Pod and a somewhat similar device for Leica rangefinder cameras. You can't see the subject in relation to the background, but you can capture it easier and faster than by framing and focusing through the lens.

    A flash with the correct fixed output at about the same distance as the camera from the subject provides correct exposure over a fair range of macro photography when using a bellows. The light fall-of as the flash to subject distance increases compensates for the bellows factor. It's been 40 years since I've done this math and photography, and can't be more specific now.

  5. #35

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    Jim, you've just described either the Spiratone Macrodapter, of which I have a couple, or the old Kalt macro bracket that held two little flashes and attached to the camera's tripod socket. I gave my Kalt away to a friend who would, I thought, have a harder time finding one -- he was in Costa Rica -- than I would. Boy, was I wrong about their availability here, but its easy to make an ugly equivalent that's just as good from scrap lumber or sheet plexiglas or lexan. The Macrodapter is functionally equivalent to a bracket made by Jones of Hollywood -- I have a pair of them too -- and I'm not sure which came first.

    I've done the math too, and it turns out that "at about the same distance as the camera from the subject," as with the Kalt adapter, gives more-or-less the right exposure over a much narrower range, and biased towards lowish magnifications, than "at about the same distance from the subject as the lens' front node." The second arrangement is more-or-less the Macrodapter and it gives more nearly correct exposure at the same aperture set over a broader range, but biased towards magnifications as high as 2:1.

    I have all this nonsense spelled out cleanly in a really cute (I say) spreadsheet and gave Anupam a copy of it some time ago. He doesn't seem to believe it enough to test its implications. But all it is is the Pythagorean theorem, GN arithmetic, and exposure adjustment for magnification.

    Thinking of Anupam, he started this thread with the news that he's an impoverished grad student who wants to shoot closeup with a format larger than 35 mm. Perhaps we should stop touting gear that's out of his price range.

    Cheers,

    Dan

  6. #36

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    As Jim brings up, have you thought about making your own bellows? Then you could use any FP shutter camera body, and get some of the movements you might want. Movements will be limited because of the mirror box with the SLR cameras.

    There are two very good books about making (folding) bellows in the camera building and modification forum. One by Barry Young, and another that is free on the web. I bought Barry's first, and it gives a nice simple, well explained method to making a bellows. The second free book gives a few other insites that I may not have understood without Barry's book. My next camera will be a self made bellows camera of some sorts, just so I can learn one more thing (even if it is only a pinhole bellows camera).

    Also remember that a bellows does not have to be a nicely folded work of art, it could be a simple light proof bag with a mount for the camera body, and a mount for your prefered lenses. That would be about the cheapest way to get going and see if it helped you get the results you want. You might also be able to experiment with this on your 35mm camera without having to buy anything but a few parts.

    The Mamiya 645 from the first model up to the ProTL are all happy without a lens attached, so it might be an option if you can find one of those cheap.
    Last edited by Greg_E; 03-23-2007 at 12:07 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #37
    bjorke's Avatar
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    In answer to the original question:

    Yes but now they are waiting for the Ideal Woman to use it

    "What Would Zeus Do?"
    KBPhotoRantPhotoPermitAPUG flickr Robot

  8. #38
    Antje's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjorke View Post
    In answer to the original question:

    Yes but now they are waiting for the Ideal Woman to use it
    Well, here I am! Where's my camera?

    SCNR

    Antje (I think a Canon dSLR with an MP-E 65/2.8 is the perfect macro camera - if it only were MF)

  9. #39
    bjorke's Avatar
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    Here you go! The Canon HyPro Medium Format camera.

    "What Would Zeus Do?"
    KBPhotoRantPhotoPermitAPUG flickr Robot

  10. #40
    Eric Rose's Avatar
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    I use my Linhof Tek IV with a roll film back.
    www.ericrose.com
    yourbaddog.com

    "civility is not a sign of weakness" JFK

    "The Dude abides" - the Dude

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