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  1. #11
    Oxleyroad's Avatar
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    Mr Student, What was the shipping to Melbourne Oz?
    Cheers - Andy C
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    16mm Cine, 35mm, 120, 5x4 & 7x5.

  2. #12
    Mr Student's Avatar
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    They calculate it by weight and I had a few other items too, (RA-4 paper and chemicals) and that came to about 60 EUR, and I think I could have ordered more and kept the shipping the same. Their prices are great, but with everything shipping to Oz is never cheap.

    e: That was 60 EUR just for the shipping!

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Oxleyroad View Post
    Mr Student, What was the shipping to Melbourne Oz?
    hey mate, if you order some chems, would you be interested splitting shipping?
    im keen on a c41 kit too, and the postage is split into decent sized segments.
    Zone 14: Australia
    Up to 1 kg:11,00 Euro; up to 2 kg: 20,00 Euro; up to 5 kg: 42,00 Euro;
    up to 10 kg: 59.00 Euro; up to 20 kg: 91,00 Euro; up to 25 kg: 132,00 Euro.
    my photo blog;
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  4. #14

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    The Rollei kit looks great. I just ordered a Tetenal powder kit from B&H as I also needed some paper and neg sleeves. I suppose I'll get 8 to 15 or so rolls out of it and will then be looking for the next option, which might well be one of these kits from Maco.

  5. #15

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    I checked on the Maco site the 5L Rollei kit is 44 Euros with 59 euros postage, comes to $130 AUD which is not bad for 100 rolls.
    x2 shipping becomes 91 euro, or $225 AUD, for $112 per kit

    Perhaps in a couple of weeks I can share an order with someone in Sydney.

  6. #16

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    The B&H order has arrived. I ordered a Tetenal kit but the box says Jobo and the info sheet is the same as the Unicolor one, so I suppose it is some generic chemistry that gets sold under different branding.

    A couple of questions

    1: I'm going to mix the solutions up from powder. Can I use regular plastic jugs from the B&W darkroom to mix in? I have jugs that are used for mixing Rodinal, Xtol etc and are then rinsed out. Is the colour chemistry sensitive in some way that I shouldn't mix the powder in these jugs?

    2: I'll put the mixed liquid into one liter water bottles, but I think I have enough colour film stored up that I can exhaust the chemistry pretty fast. However I'll probably start with one roll of 120, then do a few 35mm, then a few sheets of 4x5 etc. Say if I use 500ml of fresh chemistry for the first roll - do I pour that used dev back into the one liter bottle so it is now a blend of used and fresh, and then pour 500ml of that back into the next tank, and so on? Likewise for blix and stabiliser. I can't see any other way it can be done.

  7. #17
    polyglot's Avatar
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    1) that'll be fine. Just keep your bleach/fix containers separate from your developer containers, same as you would for B&W.

    2) That depends whether you're doing one-shot (use small quantity, discard after one use), replenishing (use some quantity, discard small fraction of it & replace that with fresh), or extending the development time with successive batches (one big batch that slowly wears out and takes more development time). All three approaches are valid and the instructions should give you some idea as to how that chemistry is meant to be used.

    Pro labs generally do replenishment as it's the most stable with large quantities being processed and most efficient use of chemistry. But you need to be developing a *lot* of film. The Fuji 5L kits for C41 and E6 both take the extended-development approach and provide a table of time extensions for successive batches through the life of the chems.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by polyglot View Post
    1) that'll be fine. Just keep your bleach/fix containers separate from your developer containers, same as you would for B&W.
    Great. So I can mix the dev in my B&W dev jugs, and the blix in my B&W fix jugs?

    Quote Originally Posted by polyglot View Post
    2) That depends whether you're doing one-shot (use small quantity, discard after one use), replenishing (use some quantity, discard small fraction of it & replace that with fresh), or extending the development time with successive batches (one big batch that slowly wears out and takes more development time). All three approaches are valid and the instructions should give you some idea as to how that chemistry is meant to be used.
    I was planning to take the third approach, although as I read the instructions it doesn't mention extending the time. E.g. using a 960ml tank it says I can process 8 rolls of 35mm, 36 frame film. A Paterson 3 roll tank holds about one litre so I would pour in 1L and process the first 3 rolls, then pour the used dev back in the bottle. As far as I can see I could then use the same one litre to immediately process another 3 rolls and then another two after that with no time extension.
    They also write that more than the recommended 8 rolls can be processed as long as it's done within the first few days while the chemistry is fresh. They basically just suggest that you keep an eye on the results and stop when you no longer like them.

  9. #19
    Jeff L's Avatar
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    He Mike,
    One think I found is that I got better results from using a two reel (500ml) tank than my four reel steel tank. When I did four 35mm films I got some streaking. I did another four films with a pre soak and a little streaking on four frames or so. I think it was taking too long to get the developer in, and the extra 10-12 sec was streaking film as the developer ran by. I haven't gotten any streaking from my 500ml steel tank or my two reel Patterson. If I had a proper darkroom, I'm fill the four reel tank and dunk the film all at once - I don't, so I have to pour through lid. Just my experience.

  10. #20
    polyglot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael W View Post
    Great. So I can mix the dev in my B&W dev jugs, and the blix in my B&W fix jugs?
    Yep.

    I was planning to take the third approach, although as I read the instructions it doesn't mention extending the time. E.g. using a 960ml tank it says I can process 8 rolls of 35mm, 36 frame film. A Paterson 3 roll tank holds about one litre so I would pour in 1L and process the first 3 rolls, then pour the used dev back in the bottle. As far as I can see I could then use the same one litre to immediately process another 3 rolls and then another two after that with no time extension.
    They also write that more than the recommended 8 rolls can be processed as long as it's done within the first few days while the chemistry is fresh. They basically just suggest that you keep an eye on the results and stop when you no longer like them.
    That's what I do with the Fuji kit, but Fuji provides a list of 5 times (3:15, 3:18, 3:23, 3:28, 3:38) for each 20% of the developer's nominal (16 rolls/L, half that for ISO400+) capacity.

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