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  1. #1
    hoffy's Avatar
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    Aussie products for building a plywood sink

    Greetings all,

    On the request of my wife, I need to re-adjust the temporary bench space that I use in our laundry (that has become pseudo permanent at the moment). What my plan is now, is to build a light weight semi-permanent bench. As things go, I am now contemplating making this into a smallish darkroom sink.

    I was going to make it out of PVC sheeting, but have decided that using standard Ply will be simpler (I can just screw and glue and the shape is done). The biggest hurdle is getting plywood (my local hardware stores only generally sell thin sheets) and my knowledge of making ply waterproof!

    OK, what common Australian products (hence why I posted in the Australian sub-forum) should I be looking for to waterproof ply, to a standard that will hold water for 8 or so hours? Or should I actually coat it in fibre glass sheeting and epoxy? Or are there other materials I should be considering?

    Cheers

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    Dave Swinnard's Avatar
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    Ok, so I'm not in Australia (but I was for a few weeks last spring...), but I just made a new darkroom sink.

    Rather than use something exotic, like yourself I went with a plywood type material, based upon my current skill set and available tools.

    After reviewing the options I settle for a plywood product that's call MDO (medium density overlay) up here. It's basically a plywood, made with waterproof glues with a surface covering of a paper product that is saturated with resins. It's sold as a base material for outdoor signs amongst other uses. See: http://www.canply.org/english/produc...aidplywood.htm for a bit more info.

    The question remains as to whether you can source something similar in your neighbourhood. (maybe check with local sign painters)

    The resin soaked paper is very smooth exhibiting none of the pattern/texture that telegraphs through applied coatings.

    I built the "box" of the sink using waterproof glue using the 12mm thick product. I tacked the joints with my brad nailer rather than screws as there is less jostling of the joint. Once I had the box built I put thickened epoxy fillets on all the inside corners and then several coats of unthickened epoxy for final waterproofing. Based on my less than skillful epoxy, I feel I obtained a perfectly usable sink. It's not the prettiest as my first batch of epoxy was with an old batch of hardener so it's darker than the other coats, but it's a darkroom sink, not art. (NOTE: the undersides of the sink have a series of wood cross members as reinforcement for the bottom when it's got water in it. PM me if you want more details/photos)

    Hope this information is of some use.

  3. #3

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    Have a look at marine ply.
    my photo blog;
    www.jamesruff.net
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    35mm/6x4.5/6x6/6x7/6x17/4x5

  4. #4
    hoffy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JamesR View Post
    Have a look at marine ply.
    Thats what I thought as well, but from the research that I did today, marine ply was more about its construction, as opposed to its out and out waterproofing capabilities. From what I have read, you still need to seal marine ply. I thought, that if this was the case, I might as well just use normal ply and make sure its well coated.

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    Dr Croubie's Avatar
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    Yeah, I was also going to say marine ply, even bunnings sells that (I saw it when looking for a piece of wood to turn my bath into a table for enlarger).
    It works well enough outdoors (my dad built me a cubby house when I was a few years old, 20 years later it was still standing). But I wouldn't call it waterproof, unless you absolutely soak it in some kind of epoxy stuff. If you know how to fibreglass, I'd go that route.

    Why not try one of those salvage joints, like the one on South road somewhere near Richmond road, for a cheap old steel sink? Just the weight factor?
    An awful lot of electrons were terribly inconvenienced in the making of this post.

  6. #6
    hoffy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Croubie View Post
    Yeah, I was also going to say marine ply, even bunnings sells that (I saw it when looking for a piece of wood to turn my bath into a table for enlarger).
    It works well enough outdoors (my dad built me a cubby house when I was a few years old, 20 years later it was still standing). But I wouldn't call it waterproof, unless you absolutely soak it in some kind of epoxy stuff. If you know how to fibreglass, I'd go that route.

    Why not try one of those salvage joints, like the one on South road somewhere near Richmond road, for a cheap old steel sink? Just the weight factor?
    I suppose I am looking at a fullsize sink where I can just put trays in, ect. I am not really just after a small tub, if that makes sense.

    The other thing is it can't be TOO big either!

  7. #7
    AgX
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    Over here there are at least three Qualities:

    -) standard laminated

    -) laminated with wateresistant glue-layers

    -) planes sealed with waterproof (black-brown) layers (though all edges will still be unsealed)


    A interesting alternative might be Wood-Plastic-Composites. But the only easily available forms are small terrace boards, not large, homogenous panels. Furthermore these are intended to be usede as they are. Varnishing them would be difficult due to the used resin. And they seem to be offered typically in wood colours.

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    hoffy's Avatar
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    OK peeps,

    I think this should be rough and ready enough:
    • Size - It will need to be no longer then 1000mm and probably around 780mm wide - this will fit at 3 16 x12 trays.....just
    • Sides no higher then 200mm
    • I'd say I would use probably 9mm or 12mm standard grade ply. I want to be able to screw it all together
    • All the joins would be sealed with silicon
    • A plastic waste
    • once constructed, cover the inside of the sink with fibreglass resin, without the fibre sheeting
    • frame out of timber and on wheels/castors - I want to be able to wheel the thing around if needed
    • and make sure the wife approves of the changes before I build it.....

    I'll also use the temporary bench that I already have. This will be more then suitable for additional trays if and when needed

    Does this sound viable enough?

  9. #9

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    Do you have any shops that do spray-on truck bed liner? For example, this stuff; http://www.linex.com

    If you need it to be light weight, build it with the 9mm material, then add additional strips of 9mm to strengthen the stress areas, especially the bottom, or use 12 for the bottom, and 9 elsewhere.

  10. #10
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    I just used 16mm structure ply from Bunnings. Glue and screw together and paint with 2 part marine paint, which you will find costs more than the rest of the sink.

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