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  1. #11

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    Tetenal directions don't say anything about pre wash and I have never done one. Why add another bath to control?

    I hope you are not washing again after the stabiliser? You need the stabiliser to dry on the film. It is there to prevent mould/fungus growing on the film over time.

  2. #12
    RobertV's Avatar
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    I hope you are not washing again after the stabiliser? You need the stabiliser to dry on the film. It is there to prevent mould/fungus growing on the film over time.
    Not only to prevent fungus on the film but mainly to prevent that the not used color stabilizers are going into a de-stabilizers.

    Pre-soak you can do to have a quicker warm up to 37,8C of the film drum. The C41 dev. temperature is pretty critical in the right temperature and time (3:15 minutes).

  3. #13
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    How did you process your 5x4? Did you use a Jobo drum? If you are doing rotation processing then you need to use a pre-wash. I was taught this may years ago by a former sales rep for the Jobo distribtors. He told me the single biggest mistake people make is not pre-washing for 5 minutes before development.

    I've always used a pre-wash with my Jobo drums, and have never had any processing marks using any format film from 110 to 5x4

    As for stabilizer marks - this can happen even with machine processing. We used to use film cleaner to clean the odd stab mark we got on our films. I can't remember the cause, but I know from experience using a drying cabinet and warm air helps avoid drying marks
    A camera is only a black box with a hole in it....

    my blog...some film, some digital http://andrewk1965.wordpress.com/

  4. #14
    RobertV's Avatar
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    The cause is mainly the (tap-) water quality. If you have hard water (dH > 12 ) you can have this. Use a Brita (TM) filter which takes away Kat- Anions and have a Carbon fine filter. I agree with the pre-soak for C41. It can also eliminates a lot of problems. 3-5 minutes is sufficient. I am using a Jobo CPA-2 (with elevator) in 35mm and roll film development. Drum 2523, 270ml as minimum for 2x 135-36 or 2x 120 roll films. C41 dev. F position, Blix (or Bleach/Fix) P position for agitation. I have always very clean negatives. Kit: Amaloco C41 in the past. Actual: Rollei Digibase C41, in fact a small Fuji Hunt C41 set.

    Best regards,

    Robert

  5. #15

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    Guys / Girls, thanks for all your replies. I have attached two shots - my first colour processing. The Anzac Bridge shot had the processing marks in the top right quarter. Photoshop fixed it, but you can see slight uneveness in the sky in this area. I will be doing a pre-wash in future.

    I had a few drip drying marks left in a few shots. I took the sheets straight from the drum and hung them to dry. I obviously need to squeegee. This may be a very basic question, but what (or how) do you all use to squeegee???

    Thanks for all your help so far, and I found colour to be just as easy as B&W, and above all it won't be costing me a fortune. Tetenal looks fine to me!

    The Anzac bridge shot was taken with the 47mm Schnieder lens. Extreme wide angle, and there is a little flair from a light extreme left of shot, about the middle. The exposure was about 13 minutes - this includes a lot of guess work, as the light at this time of day is changing quickly, and in the end one has to guess reciprocity failure. The cobweb was taken with a 240mm Fuji A lens, with a lot of bellows extension - I compensated 1 stop for extension and am happy with this guess work, as well. I think the message here is that film is actually very easy. Guess work still produces pretty good results - a message for those who think film is difficult! I can post other shots if you want?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails AL463 Anzac Bridge.jpg   AL464 Cobweb.jpg  
    Last edited by Anthony Lewis; 01-11-2011 at 08:50 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    The Medium is the Massage - Marshal McLuhan
    www.abriefvisionoftime.com

  6. #16
    w9cae's Avatar
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    Ok guys today SMBooth & myself gave the Tetenal kit anther try with excellent results. We used a JoBo regulated temperature tank & the pre heat rinse suggested here on APUG.

  7. #17
    Athiril's Avatar
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    I'm using minilab chems in a paterson hand tank with excellent results. C-41, E-6 and ECN-2.

  8. #18
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    I have been using Jobo CPE-2 and home-grown chemicals on 5x4 C-41 for a few years now and have enough ingredients to keep me going for a while - especially developer.
    However JDPhotochem Canada has gone belly-up and I don't know where to get ingredients any more. Vanbar have some but I'm thinking.
    Are there enough interested in C-41 here to group buy minilab chems. and split them among us - for bleach, fix and stabiliser - ie the chemicals which will keep a while on the shelf - everything except the developer? It's likely to be substantially cheaper then Tetenal.

    Peter.

    PS I have always pre-washed at 100F for 5 minutes in the CPE-2. Gelatin - even modern emulsions swell slightly, opening pores on wetting and I have always believed that the first couple of rotations in the CPE-2 do not wet the film evenly. If your first wetting agent is developer, I believe that means that your development will be uneven.
    Last edited by OldBikerPete; 08-28-2011 at 07:30 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  9. #19

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    Interested - but my main concern in all this is longevity of chems - particularly when opened to take out enough for a single run.

  10. #20
    Oxleyroad's Avatar
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    As per Raoul.
    Cheers - Andy C
    ---------------------

    16mm Cine, 35mm, 120, 5x4 & 7x5.

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