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  1. #1

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    Anyone got a safelight?

    So at the moment I'm stuck trying to use my bicycle light as a safelight. I'm testing it out tonight, but ideally I'd like a proper safelight.

    Anyone have a spare they're willing to sell and post to Canberra?

    Cheers

  2. #2

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    hallo

    take the philips led deco light in red (1 or 3 watt)
    it works very well -> better than my paterson safelight
    and its bright and cheap.

    --

    thomas
    --------------------------------------------------
    vfdkv (259)

  3. #3
    jp498's Avatar
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  4. #4

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    Great, where can you get the philips led globe from? Bunnings? Im not finding much online from Australian stores

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by pcyco View Post
    hallo

    take the philips led deco light in red (1 or 3 watt)
    it works very well -> better than my paterson safelight
    and its bright and cheap.

    --

    thomas
    Interesting - what papers have you tested this with?

  6. #6
    Ken Nadvornick's Avatar
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    If you can lay your hands on one or more of these red (~630nm) OptiLED Festival S11 bulbs*, then cover and allow it to shine through a single sheet of Rubylith, you will have a DIY safelight that will not fog Ilford Multigrade IV FB or RC paper for at least one hour.

    I know, because that's what I use (six of them on a strip under a curved sheet of Rubylith) and I've done the preflashed safelight fog test using this combination. I stopped the testing at 60 minutes with absolutely no sign whatsoever of paper fogging, even when tested using a reflection densitometer to confirm what my eyes were telling me.

    The Rubylith acts as a cutoff filter and is required to suppress a tiny sliver of blue light also emitted by the unfiltered bulb. Its effect on the red output is negligible. Suppressing that small blue component is what gives the insanely long fog test results.

    Ken

    * Or what I believe may be the higher-powered successor OptiLED Festival H13-VF bulbs. Or any other bulb using the same basic red LED element.
    "They are the proof that something was there and no longer is. Like a stain. And the stillness of them is boggling. You can turn away but when you come back they’ll still be there looking at you."

    — Diane Arbus, March 15, 1971, in response to a request for a brief statement about photographs

  7. #7
    Newt_on_Swings's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Nadvornick View Post
    If you can lay your hands on one or more of these red (~630nm) OptiLED Festival S11 bulbs*, then cover and allow it to shine through a single sheet of Rubylith, you will have a DIY safelight that will not fog Ilford Multigrade IV FB or RC paper for at least one hour.

    I know, because that's what I use (six of them on a strip under a curved sheet of Rubylith) and I've done the preflashed safelight fog test using this combination. I stopped the testing at 60 minutes with absolutely no sign whatsoever of paper fogging, even when tested using a reflection densitometer to confirm what my eyes were telling me.

    The Rubylith acts as a cutoff filter and is required to suppress a tiny sliver of blue light also emitted by the unfiltered bulb. Its effect on the red output is negligible. Suppressing that small blue component is what gives the insanely long fog test results.

    Ken

    * Or what I believe may be the higher-powered successor OptiLED Festival H13-VF bulbs. Or any other bulb using the same basic red LED element.
    Wow, Ive been looking for a nice safelight as well. My teaching darkroom has spoiled me with the thomas duplex in there. What kind of fixture did you make for these bulbs? are they standard screw in socket ends?

  8. #8

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    hallo

    sorra i did not realice while my last post that you are fraom australia.
    here in europe it is no problem every homeimprovement market has them.

    and we ahve 220 volt
    i think australia has 110 volt ??

    here is a link to the lamp on the austrian site (it has an other name but i think this is the right one)
    http://www.philips.at/c/-/accentcolo...900844603/prd/

    write to philips australia maybe they can help you
    i can not fint that lamp on tha australian site

    or try other ones in red. i think the most red leds will work.

    @mattC: i ilford efke rollei (foma) kentmere and all wors very well better the the paterson dukalamp (grays after w view seconds on the rollei papaer -> not so wit he leds)

    the kentmere vc paper i tested for 20 to 30 minutes with no effects to the paper.
    --

    thomas
    --------------------------------------------------
    vfdkv (259)

  9. #9
    Ken Nadvornick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newt_on_Swings View Post
    Wow, Ive been looking for a nice safelight as well. My teaching darkroom has spoiled me with the thomas duplex in there. What kind of fixture did you make for these bulbs? are they standard screw in socket ends?
    Yes, they are standard base bulbs ("Edison" base, I think they're called?) that screw into standard sockets. There is a single 0.5-watt red (~630nm) LED in each bulb. The bulb glass (plastic, actually) is itself clear, so you see no color until power is applied.

    I went to a hardware store and picked up six inexpensive small plastic sockets (these bulbs generate virtually no significant heat), mounted and wired them side-by-side on a 12-inch strip of flat black-painted plywood, and glued some small neodymium magnets to the bottom (from used electric toothbrush heads, I always salvage those as they are incredibly useful).

    I then folded a small sheet of Rubylith cylindrically domed over the top of the strip of bulbs and attached at the ends to curved black vertical cardboard supports. The magnets allow the unit to firmly attach to the top sheet metal center of my Thomas Duplex unit up by the ceiling.

    My small darkroom is now relatively bright red when I use the LEDs, and of course insanely bright orange when I use the Duplex.

    Interestingly, I also managed to perform the same trick with the Duplex by using an inexpensive sheet of Roscoe Roscolux #19 (Fire) filter material as a cutoff filter.* The emission spectra for a low-pressure sodium vapor lamp includes numerous additional spikes in the blue and green portions of the spectrum. You don't see them with your eyes, but the photo paper sees them. Get rid of them and you can significantly increase the safety of the safelight.

    This is why many people complain that the Duplexes are "way too bright and fog my paper" no matter what they do. It's not the intensity of the sodium emission doublet, providing your paper is Kodak OC safe in the first place. It's the additional blue/green emission spikes at that high intensity. Add a cutoff filter of the right transmission wavelength and the fogging all but disappears.

    When I was using Kentmere Bromide graded papers I was able to leave the sodium safelight vanes open all the way and preflashed Bromide #2 paper showed no fog out to the 30 minutes I ran the test. I don't know how far it might have gone, but the room was lit up like I was using a standard 100-watt lightbulb.

    That much truly "safe" light is a bit disconcerting and makes you feel uneasy, even though you know it has tested safe. I did find that I had to close down the vanes to compose and focus on the easel as the Duplex safelight completely overwhelmed the projected image.

    Ken

    * See the technical data sheet for this filter here. The transmission graph demonstrates why this material is so effective as a cutoff filter for the higher frequency blue and green spikes. I looked at all of the possibilities and this color was the best choice.
    Last edited by Ken Nadvornick; 07-18-2011 at 03:36 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Had to use a 'tinyurl' to reach the technical data sheet, not sure why...
    "They are the proof that something was there and no longer is. Like a stain. And the stillness of them is boggling. You can turn away but when you come back they’ll still be there looking at you."

    — Diane Arbus, March 15, 1971, in response to a request for a brief statement about photographs

  10. #10

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    Hi,

    You can put a sub-$5 (U.S.) red darkroom bulb into any household lamp or wall/ceiling fixture that takes screw-base bulbs. Short of ruby-lithing a bulb you already have, it is the cheapest way. It also couldn't get much easier.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

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