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  1. #1
    JBrunner's Avatar
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    HC110 made simple.

    I thought I had posted this to the articles a long time ago, but I guess I didn't. So for the archives and the children, here it is.

    I like Hc110. Especially for roll film. I don't like the convoluted "working
    solution" dilutions and sub dilutions, or the short times some of the dilutions
    and sub dilutions create. It should be simple to use Hc110, like Rodinal.

    If you care to research, there was a method to Kodaks madness when they
    created the dilutions and routines for HC110, but they are of little
    convenience for the darkroom enthusiast. I get more questions about
    mixing and developing with HC110 than all other developers combined. It is
    a great developer that doesn't need to be complex in usage, so I concocted a
    metric dilution that goes by 50 (1+49) That means you use 1 ml of HC110 for
    every 49 ml of water in a direct from the concentrate dilution.

    Here is how to use it on roll film in an inversion tank, like Rodinal:

    First of all, forget about saving and replenishing it. Mix up what you need, use
    it, and dump it. It's so cheap under normal usage that saving it is fairly
    useless from a cost savings perspective, plus consistent performance is
    assured by using it one-shot.

    Next, forget about an intermediate working solution. Mix it directly from the
    concentrate. Use a small bottle and a baby syringe (available at any drug
    store) to mix directly from the concentrate. Simply mix it 1+49 . Use the times
    below as a starting guide (you may not expose the same as me, or may not
    have the same taste in negatives, so these are only suggestions that should
    get you in the ballpark to do your own tweeking)

    So without further ado,

    Hc110 direct from concentrate-1+49 , 68f 20c, agitate first 30s with 2
    inversions every 30s thereafter.

    ****Note to the civilized-Please keep in mind that this methodology is for the
    US version of the concentrate*****

    Acros100 @ 100 - 8 min
    Efke 25 @ 20 - 10.5 min
    Efke100 @ 100 - 10 min
    Ilford FP4+ @ 64 - 9 min
    Ilford FP4+ @ 125 - 11 min
    Ilford HP5 @ 400 - 8 min
    Ilford HP5 @ 800 - 11.5 min
    Plus X @ 125 - 8 min
    Tmax100 @ 100 - 9 min
    Tmax400 @ 400 - 9 min
    TriX320 @ 320 -8 min
    TriX400 @ 400 - 8 min

    The following was provided by photographer David William White:

    Arista EDU-Ultra 100 @ 100 - 6.5 min
    Ilford Pan F+ @ 50 - 5.5 min

  2. #11
    hdeyong's Avatar
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    I think I have found an easier way to measure the stuff. I saved an empty dish-wash soap bottle, thoroughly rinsed it, and filled it with HC-110. I have a little graduate that goes to 100, and I fill it with water to 88. (I even put a little mark on it at 88). I then hold the squeeze bottle upside down and slowly squirt in the developer until the level is at 100. I need 600 mls, so it's 12+588. As soon as you stop squeezing the bottle, the flow stops, no mess. The little graduate is dumped into the big one, rinsed out a few times with water, which is added to the big one, and then it's filled to 600 mls. The little thing on the cap of the bottle even snaps shut.
    Best of all, it was free.

  3. #12
    bobwysiwyg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBrunner View Post
    They are not the same emulsions.
    Just seemed odd that other developers indicated diffs of a minute when used with TMax 100 vs 400.
    WYSIWYG - At least that's my goal.

    Portfolio-http://apug.org/forums/portfolios.php?u=25518

  4. #13
    NedL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hdeyong View Post
    I think I have found an easier way to measure the stuff. I saved an empty dish-wash soap bottle, thoroughly rinsed it, and filled it with HC-110. I have a little graduate that goes to 100, and I fill it with water to 88. (I even put a little mark on it at 88). I then hold the squeeze bottle upside down and slowly squirt in the developer until the level is at 100. I need 600 mls, so it's 12+588. As soon as you stop squeezing the bottle, the flow stops, no mess. The little graduate is dumped into the big one, rinsed out a few times with water, which is added to the big one, and then it's filled to 600 mls. The little thing on the cap of the bottle even snaps shut.
    Best of all, it was free.
    This is very clever... great idea!

  5. #14
    JBrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobwysiwyg View Post
    Just seemed odd that other developers indicated diffs of a minute when used with TMax 100 vs 400.
    My apologies, I thought you were thinking it was the same emulsion at different speeds.

    It is actually quite a good question in regard to developing regimens, so I hope to give a better answer, and address a little mantra of mine, in the context of thinking people need to realize that the key to success in the darkroom is being consistent enough to have verifiable cause and effect, and that that is so incredibly more important than following what some hippie from Utard advises as a time, as to be possibly one of the most under sung magic bullets yet devised.

    So, the times are just my times, what I like for a particular emulsion, so they aren't meant to be holy writ, just a guide for people to start with. Also, im thinking a minute more or less in a nine minute development scheme doesn't amount to a difference most people can discerne.I probaby cooked one at nine and tried it for the other with good results and wrote it down. All of the times will in my experience yeild good usable negatives, but adjustments should be made by the individual to achieve their own version of negative nirvana. One might find 12 minutes more satisfactory, and that would be fine by me.

  6. #15
    JBrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wiedzmin View Post
    Jason, what minimum amount of developer per roll do you recommend? I found two recommendations one says 3ml another 6ml.
    The dilution automatically works out to a minimum of around 5ml a roll. I have found this to work fine. I have used lesser dilutions to attempt to develop tonality in APHS sheet film, with questionable success.

  7. #16
    JBrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mexipike View Post
    JBrunner,
    What do you like about HC110? I used to use it and found it nice as super diluted compensating developer and use to have a great method for pushing HP5 with semistand. I've since switched to X-Tol and pyrocat hd. I'm just curious to why you like it for roll film. I do really love working with concentrated developers.
    Well, I started with HC110 in high school, but we did the whole nine yards, tanks, replenisher, the works. I didn't learn much about developing outside what the Great Yellow Father stipulated were the correct and not to be questioned procedures. The line of thought went something like this: "The big brains in Rochester have already figured this stuff out, it is up to you not to screw it up."

    Later, when I set up my own darkroom and started large format I started both learning that you could experiment and started using staining developers, PMK, Pyrocat, Wd2D+ etc. Loved them, but I needed something a bit more convenient and economical for my roll film, and I didn't feel I needed stain for stuff I didn't contact print alt process, so, during the Rodinal wars I enlisted. Despite my attempt to join the church, I harbored misgivings about Rodinal. It was just a little to much for my idiom. I did like the ease of mixing it up. Having always liked HC110, I decided to devise an easy to use monotheistic mix from concentrate method similar to Rodinal. I didn't know about dilution E at the time, so I extrapolated from dilution H and after some experimenting came up with my times. When I wrote the original article I was surprised at how much interest there was and how many people were happy with their negs.

  8. #17
    JBrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hdeyong View Post
    I think I have found an easier way to measure the stuff. I saved an empty dish-wash soap bottle, thoroughly rinsed it, and filled it with HC-110. I have a little graduate that goes to 100, and I fill it with water to 88. (I even put a little mark on it at 88). I then hold the squeeze bottle upside down and slowly squirt in the developer until the level is at 100. I need 600 mls, so it's 12+588. As soon as you stop squeezing the bottle, the flow stops, no mess. The little graduate is dumped into the big one, rinsed out a few times with water, which is added to the big one, and then it's filled to 600 mls. The little thing on the cap of the bottle even snaps shut.
    Best of all, it was free.
    That's awesome. Ill have to remember to label it so I don't wind up wondering why it won't suds.

  9. #18
    bobwysiwyg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBrunner View Post
    My apologies, I thought you were thinking it was the same emulsion at different speeds.

    It is actually quite a good question in regard to developing regimens, so I hope to give a better answer, and address a little mantra of mine, in the context of thinking people need to realize that the key to success in the darkroom is being consistent enough to have verifiable cause and effect, and that that is so incredibly more important than following what some hippie from Utard advises as a time, as to be possibly one of the most under sung magic bullets yet devised.

    So, the times are just my times, what I like for a particular emulsion, so they aren't meant to be holy writ, just a guide for people to start with. Also, im thinking a minute more or less in a nine minute development scheme doesn't amount to a difference most people can discerne.I probaby cooked one at nine and tried it for the other with good results and wrote it down. All of the times will in my experience yeild good usable negatives, but adjustments should be made by the individual to achieve their own version of negative nirvana. One might find 12 minutes more satisfactory, and that would be fine by me.
    Thanks for the follow up. Having not used this developer yet, but have been wanting to try it, the plan was to do some testing with the times. Thanks again.
    WYSIWYG - At least that's my goal.

    Portfolio-http://apug.org/forums/portfolios.php?u=25518

  10. #19
    MattKing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hdeyong View Post
    I think I have found an easier way to measure the stuff. I saved an empty dish-wash soap bottle, thoroughly rinsed it, and filled it with HC-110. I have a little graduate that goes to 100, and I fill it with water to 88. (I even put a little mark on it at 88). I then hold the squeeze bottle upside down and slowly squirt in the developer until the level is at 100. I need 600 mls, so it's 12+588. As soon as you stop squeezing the bottle, the flow stops, no mess. The little graduate is dumped into the big one, rinsed out a few times with water, which is added to the big one, and then it's filled to 600 mls. The little thing on the cap of the bottle even snaps shut.
    Best of all, it was free.
    I do almost the same with HC-110 replenisher solution, and before that with the HC-110 concentrate itself.

    The differences are:

    1) I use a 45ml Paterson Graduate instead of the 100ml one; and
    2) I bought a new travel bottle with a similar dropper style cap, so I didn't have to be as concerned about the efficacy of my rinsing regime.

    And I base my calculations of volume on 6 ml concentrate per roll of film. That number comes from a straight extrapolation of Kodak's capacity recommendations for HC-110, so it most likely contains a healthy margin for safety.

    Of course, when you use HC-110 in a replenishment regime, there is no down side to increasing the amount of developer you use each time, as all but a small fraction of that developer just goes back into the bottle afterwards.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  11. #20
    Photo-gear's Avatar
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    A little home-made video clip I shot to show how to prepare an HC-110 dilution.
    Based from the Covington website.
    http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110


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