HC110 made simple.
I thought I had posted this to the articles a long time ago, but I guess I didn't. So for the archives and the children, here it is.
I like Hc110. Especially for roll film. I don't like the convoluted "working
solution" dilutions and sub dilutions, or the short times some of the dilutions
and sub dilutions create. It should be simple to use Hc110, like Rodinal.
If you care to research, there was a method to Kodaks madness when they
created the dilutions and routines for HC110, but they are of little
convenience for the darkroom enthusiast. I get more questions about
mixing and developing with HC110 than all other developers combined. It is
a great developer that doesn't need to be complex in usage, so I concocted a
metric dilution that goes by 50 (1+49) That means you use 1 ml of HC110 for
every 49 ml of water in a direct from the concentrate dilution.
Here is how to use it on roll film in an inversion tank, like Rodinal:
First of all, forget about saving and replenishing it. Mix up what you need, use
it, and dump it. It's so cheap under normal usage that saving it is fairly
useless from a cost savings perspective, plus consistent performance is
assured by using it one-shot.
Next, forget about an intermediate working solution. Mix it directly from the
concentrate. Use a small bottle and a baby syringe (available at any drug
store) to mix directly from the concentrate. Simply mix it 1+49 . Use the times
below as a starting guide (you may not expose the same as me, or may not
have the same taste in negatives, so these are only suggestions that should
get you in the ballpark to do your own tweeking)
So without further ado,
Hc110 direct from concentrate-1+49 , 68f 20c, agitate first 30s with 2
inversions every 30s thereafter.
****Note to the civilized-Please keep in mind that this methodology is for the
US version of the concentrate*****
Acros100 @ 100 - 8 min
Efke 25 @ 20 - 10.5 min
Efke100 @ 100 - 10 min
Ilford FP4+ @ 64 - 9 min
Ilford FP4+ @ 125 - 11 min
Ilford HP5 @ 400 - 8 min
Ilford HP5 @ 800 - 11.5 min
Plus X @ 125 - 8 min
Tmax100 @ 100 - 9 min
Tmax400 @ 400 - 9 min
TriX320 @ 320 -8 min
TriX400 @ 400 - 8 min
The following was provided by photographer David William White:
Arista EDU-Ultra 100 @ 100 - 6.5 min
Ilford Pan F+ @ 50 - 5.5 min
That's just, like, my opinion, man...
HC-110 is so versatile
You can do stand development 1:100 from concentrate to tame contrast.
Originally Posted by adelorenzo
“We are buried beneath the weight of information, which is being confused with knowledge; quantity is being confused with abundance and wealth with happiness.
We are monkeys with money and guns.”
― Tom Waits
I've also done 1:150 semi stand (Dilution J) or 1:250 (Dilution M) with success for some gorgeous tonality.
Originally Posted by Mainecoonmaniac
What a great idea!
Originally Posted by jcoldslabs
I stand corrected!
“Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”
Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2
Why is it we all talk about time and dilution, but never mention temp?
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It's assumed the temp is 68/20 degrees unless otherwise specified
Originally Posted by mikebarger
Unless there is something unusual with the combo developer + film, the temperature chart says it all.
Originally Posted by mikebarger
Pet peeve of mine too - you'll never get close to that in summer here without a water chiller. I settled on 75F because I can (almost - occasionally ambient solutions will be 76-77 in the worst of summer heat) always use my Jobo to heat UP to that temperature.
Originally Posted by StoneNYC
Fortunately Ilford publishes a neat chart that makes equivalent conversion for starting points simple, then after the initial conversion I fine tune as usual except using 75F.
Originally Posted by Photo-gear
Most of the quotes are not referencing a chart, they are proclaiming what works for them.
Wow! Why don't you have an air conditioner?
Originally Posted by Roger Cole
At the risk of answering for Roger, it's probably because the cold water out of the tap is that warm. AC doesn't help much with that.
When I lived in the desert our cold water was as warm as bath water in the summer.