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Article: 510-Pyro

  1. #1

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    510-Pyro

    I found this recipe on another site and really like it.

    Just add chemicals in order and then heat to about 150F stirring to dissolve the chemicals.

    It works as a one solution staining developer. Use it like HC-110, measure, add to water and go.

    I use it with 400 Tri-x 120 at 1:200 @70 degrees for 12 minutes.
    HP5 in 4x5 I use 1:100 for 6.5 minutes @ 70 degrees.

    Jay has come up with a nice staining developer that was easy for me to use as I didn't have to change procedures from the HC-110 I've used before.

    I understand this developer has a very long shelf life, but I've only been using it about two months.

    If you don't want to buy bulk chemicals, Artcraft sells a kit. That's how I used it the first time.

    I've been using a water rinse and TF-4 fixer

    Mike
    Last edited by mikebarger; 02-01-2007 at 10:16 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #11

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    Mike, you can safely reduce the viscosity of 510-Pyro and other developers mixed in TEA by adding some warm (80 - 100 F) Propylene Glycol to the mix.
    Tom Hoskinson
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  3. #12

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    Thanks Tom

    Mike

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    Man, this stuff is really good. I just processed three rolls, over the weekend, in it. FP4+, TX320, and PAN-f, all 120.
    The Pan F was OK, the TX302 had far too much grain but the FP4+ rocked!



    This stuff gets highlight detail like nothing else.

    Mamiye 645AFD, Hartblei 45mm Super Rotator.

    Jules

  5. #14
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    I just mixed my first batch earlier this evening and can't wait to give it a try.
    Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit. In velit arcu, consequat at, interdum sit amet, consequat in, quam.

  6. #15
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    Is there anything I should consider when selecting stop bath and fixer for use with 510-Pyro?
    Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit. In velit arcu, consequat at, interdum sit amet, consequat in, quam.

  7. #16
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    I used TF-4 and Ryuji's neutral fixer with no apparent stain reduction.

    http://wiki.silvergrain.org/wiki/index.php?title=Fixer

    I can't recall the source but I also recall hearing that people were doing fine with traditional fixers, too (Kodak Fixer, Ilford).
    Craig Schroeder

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    Has anyone done much testing and curve plotting with 510? When Jay first started with this, I tested a bit and was getting rather dead shadows but nice mid tone through highlight behavior. My curves tended to show a long, flat toe. Can you share your experiences and curves if you have them? It may have been something I had done via mixing, technique or who knows what...
    Craig Schroeder

  9. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigclu View Post
    I used TF-4 and Ryuji's neutral fixer with no apparent stain reduction.

    http://wiki.silvergrain.org/wiki/index.php?title=Fixer

    I can't recall the source but I also recall hearing that people were doing fine with traditional fixers, too (Kodak Fixer, Ilford).

    Good to know. I was planning to use TF-4. Can I use Kodak Indicator Stop Bath with 510 and TF-4?
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  10. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by jstraw View Post
    Good to know. I was planning to use TF-4. Can I use Kodak Indicator Stop Bath with 510 and TF-4?
    I've never used an acid stop with 510-Pyro, just a plain water rinse. I can understand someone wanting to use an acid stop when using high strength dilutions of 510 that require short developing times

    PF recommends a water rinse instead of an acid stop bath with TF-4

    See: http://www.photoformulary.com/uploads/03-0141.pdf

    However, you should be ok using an acid stop bath after the 510-Pyro if you follow the stop bath with a water rinse.

    Clear Fix has sufficient pH buffering that you can go from 510 into an acid stop and then into the Clear Fix. IMHO, it's still a good idea to use a plain water rinse after the stop bath.
    Tom Hoskinson
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  11. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Hoskinson View Post
    I've never used an acid stop with 510-Pyro, just a plain water rinse. I can understand someone wanting to use an acid stop when using high strength dilutions of 510 that require short developing times

    PF recommends a water rinse instead of an acid stop bath with TF-4

    See: http://www.photoformulary.com/uploads/03-0141.pdf

    However, you should be ok using an acid stop bath after the 510-Pyro if you follow the stop bath with a water rinse.

    Clear Fix has sufficient pH buffering that you can go from 510 into an acid stop and then into the Clear Fix. IMHO, it's still a good idea to use a plain water rinse after the stop bath.
    Since I'll be using the 510-Pyro at somewhere between 1:300 and 1:500 dilution, the water rinse should be fine. And since it's recommended for TF-4, it's what I'll do. Thanks. I'm about to order some FP4+ and get going on some testing with it.

    I just happen to have a TON of KISB that I don't know what to do with...
    Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit. In velit arcu, consequat at, interdum sit amet, consequat in, quam.

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