510-Pyro

[Tom Hoskinson]

Mike, you can safely reduce the viscosity of 510-Pyro and other developers mixed in TEA by adding some warm (80 - 100 F) Propylene Glycol to the mix.

[mikebarger]

Thanks Tom

Mike

[lulalake]

Man, this stuff is really good. I just processed three rolls, over the weekend, in it. FP4+, TX320, and PAN-f, all 120.
The Pan F was OK, the TX302 had far too much grain but the FP4+ rocked!



This stuff gets highlight detail like nothing else.

Mamiye 645AFD, Hartblei 45mm Super Rotator.

Jules

[jstraw]

I just mixed my first batch earlier this evening and can't wait to give it a try.

[jstraw]

Is there anything I should consider when selecting stop bath and fixer for use with 510-Pyro?

[craigclu]

I used TF-4 and Ryuji's neutral fixer with no apparent stain reduction.

http://wiki.silvergrain.org/wiki/index.php?title=Fixer

I can't recall the source but I also recall hearing that people were doing fine with traditional fixers, too (Kodak Fixer, Ilford).

[craigclu]

Has anyone done much testing and curve plotting with 510? When Jay first started with this, I tested a bit and was getting rather dead shadows but nice mid tone through highlight behavior. My curves tended to show a long, flat toe. Can you share your experiences and curves if you have them? It may have been something I had done via mixing, technique or who knows what...

[jstraw]

Originally Posted by craigclu

I used TF-4 and Ryuji's neutral fixer with no apparent stain reduction.

http://wiki.silvergrain.org/wiki/index.php?title=Fixer

I can't recall the source but I also recall hearing that people were doing fine with traditional fixers, too (Kodak Fixer, Ilford).

Good to know. I was planning to use TF-4. Can I use Kodak Indicator Stop Bath with 510 and TF-4?

[Tom Hoskinson]

Originally Posted by jstraw

Good to know. I was planning to use TF-4. Can I use Kodak Indicator Stop Bath with 510 and TF-4?

I've never used an acid stop with 510-Pyro, just a plain water rinse. I can understand someone wanting to use an acid stop when using high strength dilutions of 510 that require short developing times

PF recommends a water rinse instead of an acid stop bath with TF-4

See: http://www.photoformulary.com/uploads/03-0141.pdf

However, you should be ok using an acid stop bath after the 510-Pyro if you follow the stop bath with a water rinse.

Clear Fix has sufficient pH buffering that you can go from 510 into an acid stop and then into the Clear Fix. IMHO, it's still a good idea to use a plain water rinse after the stop bath.

[jstraw]

Originally Posted by Tom Hoskinson

I've never used an acid stop with 510-Pyro, just a plain water rinse. I can understand someone wanting to use an acid stop when using high strength dilutions of 510 that require short developing times

PF recommends a water rinse instead of an acid stop bath with TF-4

See: http://www.photoformulary.com/uploads/03-0141.pdf

However, you should be ok using an acid stop bath after the 510-Pyro if you follow the stop bath with a water rinse.

Clear Fix has sufficient pH buffering that you can go from 510 into an acid stop and then into the Clear Fix. IMHO, it's still a good idea to use a plain water rinse after the stop bath.

Since I'll be using the 510-Pyro at somewhere between 1:300 and 1:500 dilution, the water rinse should be fine. And since it's recommended for TF-4, it's what I'll do. Thanks. I'm about to order some FP4+ and get going on some testing with it.

I just happen to have a TON of KISB that I don't know what to do with...