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Article: 510-Pyro

  1. #1

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    510-Pyro

    I found this recipe on another site and really like it.

    Just add chemicals in order and then heat to about 150F stirring to dissolve the chemicals.

    It works as a one solution staining developer. Use it like HC-110, measure, add to water and go.

    I use it with 400 Tri-x 120 at 1:200 @70 degrees for 12 minutes.
    HP5 in 4x5 I use 1:100 for 6.5 minutes @ 70 degrees.

    Jay has come up with a nice staining developer that was easy for me to use as I didn't have to change procedures from the HC-110 I've used before.

    I understand this developer has a very long shelf life, but I've only been using it about two months.

    If you don't want to buy bulk chemicals, Artcraft sells a kit. That's how I used it the first time.

    I've been using a water rinse and TF-4 fixer

    Mike
    Last edited by mikebarger; 02-01-2007 at 09:16 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #21

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    Have any of you guys seen anything of Jay on the other boards?

    His Blog site had this information.

    "I recently suffered a personal tragedy and can no longer practice photography."

    I think this was a February dated posting.

    He had always been very helpful when I had asked him questions about 510 pyro.

    Just wondering if anyone had heard anything.

    Mike

  3. #22
    Loose Gravel's Avatar
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    I have had recent correspondence with him. He repeated that he wasn't practicing photography at the moment, but he was pleasant, answered my questions, and seemed okay. I don't know about his personal life.

    On another note, I too find 510 pyro a very interesting developer and I'm considering switching to it for my everyday use, although I have found a bug in it. I don't wish to start a developer war like those that existed here earlier. If other folks are using this developer or have questions and info, post it or send a PM. I'd be very interested in your results. I'm especially interested in regards to replacing PMK in a rotary process and VC silver based printing.

    Be well, --LG--
    Watch for Loose Gravel

  4. #23

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    I've been using it in an old jobo 4323 drum with 2021 reels on a unicolor base and had good luck.

    Thanks for the response, I wasn't wanting to dig into his personal life, just concerned about someone that has been friendly/helpful to me.

    Thanks

    Mike

  5. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikebarger View Post
    I've been using it in an old jobo 4323 drum with 2021 reels on a unicolor base and had good luck.

    Thanks for the response, I wasn't wanting to dig into his personal life, just concerned about someone that has been friendly/helpful to me.

    Thanks

    Mike
    Jay was helpful to me as well. I'd appreciate a PM with any new information you have about 510-Pyro. I use it as my primary developer...sheet film semi-stand, 1:500...and roll film 1:100 with normal agitation. I'm about to try and work out development times for it in a Jobo tank and a Unicoler base as well.
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  6. #25

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    I'm using HP5 in 4x5 and use the following, 1:200 for 13 minutes 45 seconds at 70 degrees with the unicolor base.

    Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Hoskinson View Post
    Mike, you can safely reduce the viscosity of 510-Pyro and other developers mixed in TEA by adding some warm (80 - 100 F) Propylene Glycol to the mix.
    Can you say more about this? Do you cut the stock made with TEA with however much P.G. and factor that into the dilutions?

    IE: 400ml 510-Pyro + 400ml P.G. then 1:50 for 1:100 dilution

    Does the P.G. have any effect on keeping qualities?
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  8. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by jstraw View Post
    Can you say more about this? Do you cut the stock made with TEA with however much P.G. and factor that into the dilutions?

    IE: 400ml 510-Pyro + 400ml P.G. then 1:50 for 1:100 dilution

    Does the P.G. have any effect on keeping qualities?
    No, the P.G. is inert.

    When the TEA is mixed with water it provides the alkali that activates the developer - the P.G. is fully soluble in water and it is inert. I only add enough P.G. to lower the viscosity of the TEA a little.
    Tom Hoskinson
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    Everything is analog - even digital :D

  9. #28
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    IIRC, when Jay was still active on the forums, we discussed replacing 10% of the TEA with glycol. The idea was that there would still be sufficient TEA, so that the times and dilutions would not change. I don't know that anyone actually made the tests, though.
    j

  10. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by juan View Post
    IIRC, when Jay was still active on the forums, we discussed replacing 10% of the TEA with glycol. The idea was that there would still be sufficient TEA, so that the times and dilutions would not change. I don't know that anyone actually made the tests, though.
    j
    I was corresponding with Jay back then and giving him feedback and test results. I could discern no difference with the small amount of PG.

    I had posted regarding shadow density issues earlier in this thread and got no responses. The current message activity in here got me pulling out 510 info and I re-ran a film test on HP5+. I love the fine grain, midtones and controlled highlights but the shadows are so dead and empty for me. My blue channel (I don't have UV) curves bear this out, too. I really feel that I have given this soup a fair amount of trial and by the time I get shadow detail to emerge, I'm at extremes of the curve and struggle to get tones to paper as I would like. Is anyone else struggling with this? This developer seems to have people very polarized as to their affections for it. If I could solve my low zone density issues, I would love the stuff. I'll admit to not being a soot and chalk fan so perhaps I'm more sensitive to the behavior?
    Craig Schroeder

  11. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by craigclu View Post
    I had posted regarding shadow density issues earlier in this thread and got no responses. The current message activity in here got me pulling out 510 info and I re-ran a film test on HP5+. I love the fine grain, midtones and controlled highlights but the shadows are so dead and empty for me. My blue channel (I don't have UV) curves bear this out, too. I really feel that I have given this soup a fair amount of trial and by the time I get shadow detail to emerge, I'm at extremes of the curve and struggle to get tones to paper as I would like. Is anyone else struggling with this? This developer seems to have people very polarized as to their affections for it. If I could solve my low zone density issues, I would love the stuff. I'll admit to not being a soot and chalk fan so perhaps I'm more sensitive to the behavior?
    Craig, what was the agitation you used? What were you rating the HP5+ at?

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