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Article: 510-Pyro

  1. #1

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    510-Pyro

    I found this recipe on another site and really like it.

    Just add chemicals in order and then heat to about 150F stirring to dissolve the chemicals.

    It works as a one solution staining developer. Use it like HC-110, measure, add to water and go.

    I use it with 400 Tri-x 120 at 1:200 @70 degrees for 12 minutes.
    HP5 in 4x5 I use 1:100 for 6.5 minutes @ 70 degrees.

    Jay has come up with a nice staining developer that was easy for me to use as I didn't have to change procedures from the HC-110 I've used before.

    I understand this developer has a very long shelf life, but I've only been using it about two months.

    If you don't want to buy bulk chemicals, Artcraft sells a kit. That's how I used it the first time.

    I've been using a water rinse and TF-4 fixer

    Mike
    Last edited by mikebarger; 02-01-2007 at 10:16 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #51
    Snapshot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterB View Post
    In the absence of any replies to my question, I might re-phrase it....

    Can people who are using or have used 510-Pyro let me know if you are happy with the shadow detail in your prints ?

    regards
    Peter
    I've been reasonably satisfied with my shadow detail. For references sake, my main film is APX 100 and Tri-X 400 in 35mm format.
    "The secret to life is to keep your mind full and your bowels empty. Unfortunately, the converse is true for most people."

  3. #52
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Shadow detail is usually more of an exposure issue than a developer issue (not that either is irrelevant). I'm not a 510-pyro user, but if I were having shadow problems with any developer, I'd test with the same film rated at a lower speed before giving up on the developer.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  4. #53
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    I've used 510 Pyro, although not extensively. When Jay was online, we swapped some information, and I usually tested lower ISO than he did - thus, I needed more exposure to get shadow detail that I was satisfied with.

    I have an opinion that could be right or wrong. Looking at Jay's prints on his site, he took portraits in which he seems to be interested in the higher values (skin tones.) He seems to let the shadows in the background fall away. I think for this reason, he didn't value the shadow detail as much as I did, and thus was able to use shorter exposures.

    When I use more exposure, I've been happy with the shadow detail. I've used mainly Efke PL100 and Forte 400 with this developer.
    juan

  5. #54

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    I used Fred Pickers film speed test and shoot 120 tri-x 400 at it's rated speed. I actually had more of a problem getting the development time down (long enough for good contrast)for my color head.

    Shadows have been fine.

    Mike

  6. #55
    PeterB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikebarger View Post
    I used Fred Pickers film speed test and shoot 120 tri-x 400 at it's rated speed. I actually had more of a problem getting the development time down (long enough for good contrast)for my color head.

    Shadows have been fine.

    Mike
    Thanks everybody for your answers.

    My main reason for enquiring about the shadows was to see if other folks had experienced similar problems to those detailed by Craig, where his shadows were so dead and empty and his (ED) curve showed a long, flat toe.
    Because I have never made up my own dev. before, I didn't want to go to the trouble of buying the chemicals, mixing it up and using 510-Pyro if it had inherent flaws.

    regards
    Peter
    Last edited by PeterB; 04-16-2008 at 06:15 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: fixed up links

  7. #56
    c6h6o3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterB View Post
    Can people who are using or have used 510-Pyro let me know if you are happy with the shadow detail in your prints ?

    regards
    Peter
    Very happy.

  8. #57

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    So, where can one find the recipe? Google search showed nada.
    The first post in this thread reads like the recipe is their, but the author forgot to include it.
    Bill

  9. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildbillbugman View Post
    So, where can one find the recipe? Google search showed nada.
    The first post in this thread reads like the recipe is their, but the author forgot to include it.
    Bill
    I can point you to half of the recipe (i.e. just the ingredients) here. The method/instructions for mixing and using those ingredients are probably so intuitive that Jay left them off from that page.

    BTW, despite Jay's personal tragedy preventing him from practicing photography again, he appears to have been very active on photo.net for the past 5 months.

    regards
    Peter

  10. #59

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    Thank you Peter.
    I am new to the Recipe section of APUG. There is alot here to be learned.
    I am currently focusing my efforts on in-camera B&W emulsion making. And the right developer for the emulsion is critical. So I will become a reguler here.
    I do not know who Jay is, but my heart is with him.
    Regards,
    Bill

  11. #60

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    I guess I didn't realize the format of the articles section had changed. The formula used to be in a little box to the side

    TEA 75ml
    Ascorbic acid 5g
    Pyrogallol 10g
    Phenidone .25g
    TEA to make 100ml

    Dilution 1+100

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