I found this recipe on another site and really like it.
Just add chemicals in order and then heat to about 150F stirring to dissolve the chemicals.
It works as a one solution staining developer. Use it like HC-110, measure, add to water and go.
I use it with 400 Tri-x 120 at 1:200 @70 degrees for 12 minutes.
HP5 in 4x5 I use 1:100 for 6.5 minutes @ 70 degrees.
Jay has come up with a nice staining developer that was easy for me to use as I didn't have to change procedures from the HC-110 I've used before.
I understand this developer has a very long shelf life, but I've only been using it about two months.
If you don't want to buy bulk chemicals, Artcraft sells a kit. That's how I used it the first time.
I've been using a water rinse and TF-4 fixer
Last edited by mikebarger; 02-01-2007 at 09:16 PM. Click to view previous post history.
I am new to this thread and have not found a refference to re-staining after the Fix. What say you?
I have not used 510 pyro, but this practice will in all likelihood just increase the level of general stain on your negatives.
Originally Posted by wildbillbugman
No restaining after fix.
Thanks Mike and Uhner,
While re-staining is not used with pyrocat developers it is common with 'old school' pyro, like PMK.
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Even Gordon Hutchings has abandoned restaining with PMK.
Nobody re-stains anymore. Not even my cat.
I talked with Mike at Artcraft and he will sell a larger kit than the formula listed above. Basically it is four times larger. I think the .25gr of phenidone is hard for him to measure accurately.
TEA 300ml (sends pint, you measure out the 300ml)
Ascorbic acid 20gr
TEA to make 400ml
He sells the above for $20.00 plus shipping.
Dilution 1+100 or up to 1+500
Concerning the recipe.
Artcraft lists Pyrogallic Acid, not Pyrogallol.
So my question is if this is the same ingredient?
That's what I've got each time I've ordered a kit.
Yep, they are the same according to here
"Other names(for Pyrogallol): 1,2,3-Trihydroxybenzene, Pyrogallic acid"