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Article: 510-Pyro

  1. #1

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    510-Pyro

    I found this recipe on another site and really like it.

    Just add chemicals in order and then heat to about 150F stirring to dissolve the chemicals.

    It works as a one solution staining developer. Use it like HC-110, measure, add to water and go.

    I use it with 400 Tri-x 120 at 1:200 @70 degrees for 12 minutes.
    HP5 in 4x5 I use 1:100 for 6.5 minutes @ 70 degrees.

    Jay has come up with a nice staining developer that was easy for me to use as I didn't have to change procedures from the HC-110 I've used before.

    I understand this developer has a very long shelf life, but I've only been using it about two months.

    If you don't want to buy bulk chemicals, Artcraft sells a kit. That's how I used it the first time.

    I've been using a water rinse and TF-4 fixer

    Mike
    Last edited by mikebarger; 02-01-2007 at 09:16 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #71
    Robbedoes's Avatar
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    @Mike & Peter,

    Thanks a lot.
    In some way I always think of ‘liquids’ when I read ‘acid’.
    Has to do with vinager I suppose :-)

    Regards,

    Rob

  3. #72
    Robbedoes's Avatar
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    Oh dear, another question.

    First I had a look at US stores but there are problems to be expected when shipping to Europe.
    Fortunately I found all ingredients via Wolfgang Moersch’ web site.

    But then I noticed that the quality of the ascorbic acid is ‘food quality’.

    Is this quality suficient?

    Regards,

    Rob

  4. #73

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robbedoes View Post
    But then I noticed that the quality of the ascorbic acid is ‘food quality’.

    Is this quality suficient?
    In all likelihood; I have not encountered any problems when using food grade ascorbic acid in other pyro developers.

  5. #74
    dwdmguy's Avatar
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    I'd very much like to try this on the weekend. But, er, I feel dumb, I'm looking that the post and nowhere do I see the chems to use.........

  6. #75

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    Look at post 60 and 67. They make different quantities.

    Mike

  7. #76
    dwdmguy's Avatar
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    Mike, Thanks tons.
    I'll be ordering and trying right away.
    Very best,

  8. #77
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    Mike, I hope you don't mind but would you have any advise for using with a rotary drum, i.e.., Jobo. Should I knock off 10-15 pct off the dev time as normal?
    Thank you again.

  9. #78

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    Tom

    The times at the top of the page are what I use with an old Jobo tank (2021 reels) on a unicolor rotary base.

    Mike

  10. #79

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    Whitish fllakes in 510-Pyro

    Hello,
    Having only the ingredients and weights for the formula, I made a batch.
    I just measured out the tea and added all solid ingredients befor mixing. At 150F all is clear and brownish. Upon cooling there are white-yellow flakes floating around. These settle to the bottom to form a clear,sticky layer.
    What did I do wrong?
    Thanks,
    Bill

  11. #80

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    The 510-Pyro/Tri-X combination at EI 1600 produces surprisingly small grain for a two stop push. In addition it held the highlight detail and the shadow detail extremely well. A very effective two stop push is easily attainable with this combination.

    Film: Tri-X 400

    EI: 1600

    Format: 120 Medium Format

    Developer: 510-Pyro

    Dilution: 1:100

    Time: 18:00

    Temp: 20C/68F

    Agitation: Rotary

    Presoak: 3 minutes water presoak

    Fixer: TF-4


    When pushing to EI 800 the following time and dilution have been working well:

    Film: Tri-X 400

    EI: 800

    Dilution: 1:100

    Time: 11:00

    Temp: 20C/68F

    Agitation: Rotary

    Presoak: 3 minutes water presoak

    Fixer: TF-4

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