510-Pyro

[mikebarger]

I found this recipe on another site and really like it.

Just add chemicals in order and then heat to about 150F stirring to dissolve the chemicals.

It works as a one solution staining developer. Use it like HC-110, measure, add to water and go.

I use it with 400 Tri-x 120 at 1:200 @70 degrees for 12 minutes.
HP5 in 4x5 I use 1:100 for 6.5 minutes @ 70 degrees.

Jay has come up with a nice staining developer that was easy for me to use as I didn't have to change procedures from the HC-110 I've used before.

I understand this developer has a very long shelf life, but I've only been using it about two months.

If you don't want to buy bulk chemicals, Artcraft sells a kit. That's how I used it the first time.

I've been using a water rinse and TF-4 fixer

Mike

[Robbedoes]

@Mike & Peter,

Thanks a lot.
In some way I always think of ‘liquids’ when I read ‘acid’.
Has to do with vinager I suppose :-)

Regards,

Rob

[Robbedoes]

Oh dear, another question.

First I had a look at US stores but there are problems to be expected when shipping to Europe.
Fortunately I found all ingredients via Wolfgang Moersch’ web site.

But then I noticed that the quality of the ascorbic acid is ‘food quality’.

Is this quality suficient?

Regards,

Rob

[Uhner]

But then I noticed that the quality of the ascorbic acid is ‘food quality’.

Is this quality suficient?

In all likelihood; I have not encountered any problems when using food grade ascorbic acid in other pyro developers.

[dwdmguy]

I'd very much like to try this on the weekend. But, er, I feel dumb, I'm looking that the post and nowhere do I see the chems to use.........

[mikebarger]

Look at post 60 and 67. They make different quantities.

Mike

[dwdmguy]

Mike, Thanks tons.
I'll be ordering and trying right away.
Very best,

[dwdmguy]

Mike, I hope you don't mind but would you have any advise for using with a rotary drum, i.e.., Jobo. Should I knock off 10-15 pct off the dev time as normal?
Thank you again.

[mikebarger]

Tom

The times at the top of the page are what I use with an old Jobo tank (2021 reels) on a unicolor rotary base.

Mike

[wildbillbugman]

Hello,
Having only the ingredients and weights for the formula, I made a batch.
I just measured out the tea and added all solid ingredients befor mixing. At 150F all is clear and brownish. Upon cooling there are white-yellow flakes floating around. These settle to the bottom to form a clear,sticky layer.
What did I do wrong?
Thanks,
Bill

[shaloo.want]

The 510-Pyro/Tri-X combination at EI 1600 produces surprisingly small grain for a two stop push. In addition it held the highlight detail and the shadow detail extremely well. A very effective two stop push is easily attainable with this combination.

Film: Tri-X 400

EI: 1600

Format: 120 Medium Format

Developer: 510-Pyro

Dilution: 1:100

Time: 18:00

Temp: 20C/68F

Agitation: Rotary

Presoak: 3 minutes water presoak

Fixer: TF-4


When pushing to EI 800 the following time and dilution have been working well:

Film: Tri-X 400

EI: 800

Dilution: 1:100

Time: 11:00

Temp: 20C/68F

Agitation: Rotary

Presoak: 3 minutes water presoak

Fixer: TF-4