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  1. #1
    Ole
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    Ole's Quick fix (OF-1)

    Here's one version of my akaline buffered "rapidized" fix - quantities are not critical. I use cups, spoons and dashes...

    The metaborate can be used for anything, the bicarbonate version should not be used with acid stop or other acidic bath in the process (gas bubbles should be avoided!)

    Mixed correctly(ish), the effect is almost as good as TF-4, and the ammonia odor is far less noticable. If it stinks too much, use less alkali next time. It can be almost odorless...

    600 ml water
    220g Sodium thiosulfate pentahydrate
    30 g Sodium sulfite anhydrous
    40 g ammonium chloride
    20 cl Sodium metaborate 10% solution
    OR 5 g Sodium bicarbonate

    Water to 1 liter.

  2. #2
    Sean's Avatar
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    Comments from previous article system:

    By hortense - 10:13 PM, 11-11-2004 Rating: None
    What is fix time? (TF-4 is only 1-minute)?

    By Tom Hoskinson - 04:42 AM, 12-03-2004 Rating: None
    For the PF instruction sheet on TF-4, see: http://www.digitaltruth.com/store/f...ech/03-0141.pdf

    PF recommends 30 seconds in TF-4 for RC paper, 1 minute for FB paper. For film, recommended TF-4 fixing times range from 3 minutes to 6 minutes depending on film type and agitation frequency.

    For most films, I fix for 4 minutes in TF-4, with agitation. I use the same procedure with OF-1.

    I contact print on Azo (FB paper) and I use Michael Smith's recommended Hypo based 2 bath fixing procedure - not TF-4 or OF-1.

    By jdef - 09:53 PM, 01-07-2005 Rating: None
    Ole, can sodium chloride be substituted for ammonium chloride?

    By Ryuji - 11:05 AM, 01-18-2005 Rating: None
    I find pH of 7 to 8 is most preferred for fixing bath. As a buffering agent for neutral/alkaline pH range for fixing bath, I suggest borax, triethanolamine, or disodium phosphate as the buffering agent. In order to buffer the pH in appropriate range, these must be combined with appropriate acid. I have a few formulae like that, if anyone is interested.

    By andrewfrith - 03:23 AM, 01-31-2005 Rating: None
    Ole..is this 1 liter of stock solution which would then be diluted to a working solution like TF-4? with TF-4 for film, i mix it 1 to 3 with distilled water...same with this recipe?

    By craigclu - 07:23 PM, 03-01-2005 Rating: None
    Ryuji... I was just looking through here and noticed your post. Could you share what you've done with the alternate buffering agents and some recommended formulas?

    By Ryuji - 11:08 PM, 03-07-2005 Rating: None
    The formula for that fixer is found in this section.

  3. #3
    Ole
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    1) The important part of the ammonium chloride is the ammonium. So no, it can't be substituted.

    2) The fixer can be used full strength or diluted 1+1. I prefer full strength.

    3) pH of the finished fixer is below 9. If it rises above, it gets "smelly" with a strong ammonia reech. I aim for about 8, but measure only by smell.

    4) The reason for the alternative alkalis is that I would prefer bicarbonate, but also prefer to avoid carbonates and bicarbonates when an acid stop is used. So metaborate is a good, safe alternative.

    5) I don't use this fix with POP or lith prints. Like all rapid fixes it has a very slight bleaching effect in the highlights, especially with warm tones.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  4. #4
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    The old way of making rapid fixer was to use Ammonium Chloride and Sodium Thiosulphate, however as large manufacturers switched to rapid fixers the price of ammonium thiosulpate dropped.

    So you could use Ammonium Thiosulphate instead (and no ammonium chloride).

  5. #5
    Ole
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    Yes, you could use ammonium thiosulfate. But then it would be a different fixer, with different properties, and no longer OF-1.

    In OF-1 the chloride from the ammonium chloride also has a slight accelerating effect on the fixing, so a fixer with ammonium thiosulfate and no ammonium chloride would be something completely different.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  6. #6

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    Before reading Ole's fine article I had made up a very similar rapid fixer from my old photolab index. It has worked nicely for me. Here is the formula:
    Water @ 125ºF 600 ml
    hypo 360 grams
    Ammonium Chloride 50 grams
    Sodium Sulfite 15 grams
    28% Acetic Acid 47 ml
    Boric Acid crystals 7.5 grams
    Potassium Alum 15 grams

    I omitted the Potassium Alum since I was using it for paper. I have been using it in 2 consecutive 30 second baths and then rinsing in water and allowing the prints to sit in 4% Sodium Sulfite solution until ready for batch washing. The washing is then carried out at a very slow flow rate for 2 hours in a Paterson print washer. Following that the wash the prints are bleached, rinsed and toned in thiorea as fully as possible and given a 1/2 hour wash. This has worked even better for me as far as stains and ruined prints then what I achieved using Kodak HE1 hypo elimator formula.

    I am not the least bit surprised to see such a fine recipe coming from the Norway Knight of daylight photography.
    Claire (Ms Anne Thrope is in the darkroom)

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Grant View Post
    The old way of making rapid fixer was to use Ammonium Chloride and Sodium Thiosulphate, however as large manufacturers switched to rapid fixers the price of ammonium thiosulpate dropped.

    So you could use Ammonium Thiosulphate instead (and no ammonium chloride).
    One of the reasons I particularly like OF1 is that it uses the chloride which I can get shipped in solid form, whereas the amm. thio. in these parts is liquid and no-one will ship it to me. As such this makes it a rapid alkaline fixer which plays well with catechol and I can home brew. Furpect

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ole View Post
    Here's one version of my akaline buffered "rapidized" fix - quantities are not critical. I use cups, spoons and dashes...
    Hi Ole!,
    I decided to prepare your OF-1 formula and some (newbie) questions arise:

    1.- Ammonium chloride was hard to dilute in cold water, can hot water be used instead if it better works? (those 600 ml you propose)

    2.- Can all components be mixed altogether in dry powder version and water be added right before the use?

    3.- How long does OF-1 lasts once prepared? (full strength)

    4.- What 10% metaborate means?. I assume that a 1000ml 100% mix should use 1000g metaborate and therefore a 20cl 10% means 2g of metaborate diluted in 20cl water?.


    Thank you in advance,
    Juan Miguel

  9. #9
    Ole
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    1. Yes. I use warm(ish) water, but I also use an electric stirrer so I'm not around to see it mixing.

    2: Yes, can't see why not.

    3: No idea, I'm afraid. It seems to last long enough that I discard it because it's used up, long before it breaks down in any way.

    4: 10% metaborate would be 20g sodium metaborate dissolved in 200 ml (=20cl) of water. I use solution because I don't have dry metaborate, so I have to make it from sodium hydroxide and sodium borate. I really prefer the bicarbonate version.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  10. #10
    Rafal Lukawiecki's Avatar
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    What is the average capacity of this fixer? I vaguely remember reading that sodium thiosulphate + ammonium chloride fixers tend to have lower capacities than ammonium thiosulphate ones due to chloride ions.
    Rafal Lukawiecki
    See rafal.net | Read rafal.net/articles



 

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