B&w slide tried and true process

[Alessandro Serrao]

Kodak T-Max 100 (@100)

First development: Tetenal Eukobrom 1+5 (42ml) for 11 minutes at 20°C, add 125ml of a 2% di sodium hypo concentrate (equalling 2,5g of the same chemical specimen in 250ml), 1 inversion of 5 seconds every 15 seconds; diluition guideline: 125ml → 167ml → 250ml; start with 125ml of a 2% sodium hypo, then add 42 ml of developer (up to 167ml) then add water up to 250ml;

Washing: modified Ilford method 5/10/20/20 with tap water adding EDTA 2g/l;

Bleaching: 4g potassium permanganate in 1000ml of pure distilled water (stock solution A), 40g sodium bisulfate in 1000ml of pure distilled water (stock solution B); mix in a separate container 62ml from stock A and 125ml from stock B, then top it off to 250ml with pure distilled water; 5 minutes using constant agitation; it's paramount to prepare this solution just before use;

Washing: modified Ilford method 5/10/20/20 with tap water adding EDTA 2g/l;

Clearing: 25g sodium metabisulphite in 1000ml of pure distilled water, 2 minutes using 1 inversion of 5 seconds every 15 seconds;

Washing: modified Ilford method 5/10/20/20 with tap water adding EDTA 2g/l;

II° exposure: at the distance of 10 cm from a fluorescent bulb exposing for 1 minute each side of the spiral, mantaining it on the tank full of pure distilled water;

II° development: Tetenal Eukobrom 1+9 (25ml) for 6 minutes at 20°C (for other temperatures check the Ilford Conversion Table), 1 inversion of 5 seconds every 15 seconds;

Washing: modified Ilford method 5/10/20/20 with tap water adding EDTA 2g/l;

Fixing: add 5m of Tetenal Härter to 30ml of Agfa Agefix and then top it off to 250ml; treat for 5 minutes, 1 inversion of 5 seconds every 15 seconds;

Washing: modified Ilford method 5/10/20/20 with tap water adding EDTA 2g/l;

Washing: modified Ilford method 5/10/20/20 with tap water adding EDTA 2g/l;

Photo-flo: add 0,25ml of Agfa Agepon to 250ml of pure distilled water;

Hang to dry in a dust free environment (I use a home made film dryer using a Toyota air intake filter and a hair dryer under a big plastic bag)

[Alessandro Serrao]

Yes,
42 ml is the Eukobrom concentrate.

A 2% solution is 20g of solute in 1000g of solution. The proportion is like this:

g solute : g solution = x : 100

We are not considering the fact that 1l of solution is circa 1000g of water + 20g of hypo, that is 1020g total. For simplicity's sake we round it to 1000g.

Taking 125ml of a 2% solution is the same as taking roughly 2,5g of that solute.

[Alessandro Serrao]

Some sample images obtained with my recipe
http://www.photo.net/bboard/uploaded...ad_id=36077784
http://www.photo.net/bboard/uploaded...ad_id=36077884

scanned with a cheap Epson flatbed.
Projected they are on another planet.

[davido]

Hello
I made another attempt at reversal processing yesterday and I'm getting closer.
After following Allesandro's instructions re: bleaching, I ended up with NO IMAGES again BUT at least there were dark borders, which is much better than the first time.
I would like to narrow down where I went wrong. here are a few guesses:

1) over agitating the bleach? (continuous inverting back and forth for 5 minutes)
2) not enough second exposure (10 cm under flourescent bulb under water on spiral reel and in patterson developing tank)
3) didn't use hardner in fix.

The dark border along the sprocket holes was dark but not fully black which leads me to believe that the film was not exposed long enough for the second exposure or it was over bleached and, therefore, there was nothing left to re-expose?
thanks
david

[kb244]

Out of curiosity what makes this better than a controllable contact transfer onto another strip of film?

[davido]

Any dupe will not have the quality of an original. there is detail lost in the highlights and shadows. a well exposed and processsed B&W transparency is wonderous to behold.
david

[Alessandro Serrao]

davido: can you please scan a frame from your last attempt and post it here?

[Alessandro Serrao]

You can try this.
Pick up a scrap of film leader fully exposed to light and run it trough the same process you've used the last time.

See how this scrap turns out...

[Alessandro Serrao]

Recently I've been experimenting using directly a 250mg potassium permanganate tablet, bought from my local pharmacy, as a bleach, acidified as usual.

This way is much more simpler: no need to stock concentrates, I diluite ONE tablet per 250ml immediately before using the bleach, so to have maximum consistency from run to run.

[Mike Wilde]

if you can filnd it ( it I understand is still being made - for B&W cinema ) Eastman 5302 is just the ticket. I found a 100' can at a camera show on the weekend, for $5, but researching, it is now too much more than $20 new.

I am planning to use it for unsharp masking stock, and for that it works great. It is ortho, and I just contact print it with the negative under the light of the enlarger. If I put it emulsion to emulsion, and with no local duffuser I would have a slide. As it is I go non-emusion to non-emulsion, and have a sheet of tracing paper on top to make the unsharp mask.

It develops in the same print developer that I have open that made me want to make the USM in the printing session in the first place. It can also be developed in d-76 or lith develper to get different resuts.

Prior to this when I wanted to USM, I would do it on Kodalith, and then pour out a very low activity developer it its own tray, then toss it because it oxidises easily.

[Alessandro Serrao]

Unfortunately I haven't any enlarger (I used to have it).
Here in Italy the film you claim is available only in very large quantities (like a box of 20 100 feet cans) and surely doesn't cost anything like $20.

However thanks for your suggestion, it seems very interesting.