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  1. #1

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    B&w slide tried and true process

    Kodak T-Max 100 (@100)

    First development: Tetenal Eukobrom 1+5 (42ml) for 11 minutes at 20°C, add 125ml of a 2% di sodium hypo concentrate (equalling 2,5g of the same chemical specimen in 250ml), 1 inversion of 5 seconds every 15 seconds; diluition guideline: 125ml → 167ml → 250ml; start with 125ml of a 2% sodium hypo, then add 42 ml of developer (up to 167ml) then add water up to 250ml;

    Washing: modified Ilford method 5/10/20/20 with tap water adding EDTA 2g/l;

    Bleaching: 4g potassium permanganate in 1000ml of pure distilled water (stock solution A), 40g sodium bisulfate in 1000ml of pure distilled water (stock solution B); mix in a separate container 62ml from stock A and 125ml from stock B, then top it off to 250ml with pure distilled water; 5 minutes using constant agitation; it's paramount to prepare this solution just before use;

    Washing: modified Ilford method 5/10/20/20 with tap water adding EDTA 2g/l;

    Clearing: 25g sodium metabisulphite in 1000ml of pure distilled water, 2 minutes using 1 inversion of 5 seconds every 15 seconds;

    Washing: modified Ilford method 5/10/20/20 with tap water adding EDTA 2g/l;

    II° exposure: at the distance of 10 cm from a fluorescent bulb exposing for 1 minute each side of the spiral, mantaining it on the tank full of pure distilled water;

    II° development: Tetenal Eukobrom 1+9 (25ml) for 6 minutes at 20°C (for other temperatures check the Ilford Conversion Table), 1 inversion of 5 seconds every 15 seconds;

    Washing: modified Ilford method 5/10/20/20 with tap water adding EDTA 2g/l;

    Fixing: add 5m of Tetenal Härter to 30ml of Agfa Agefix and then top it off to 250ml; treat for 5 minutes, 1 inversion of 5 seconds every 15 seconds;

    Washing: modified Ilford method 5/10/20/20 with tap water adding EDTA 2g/l;

    Washing: modified Ilford method 5/10/20/20 with tap water adding EDTA 2g/l;

    Photo-flo: add 0,25ml of Agfa Agepon to 250ml of pure distilled water;

    Hang to dry in a dust free environment (I use a home made film dryer using a Toyota air intake filter and a hair dryer under a big plastic bag)
    Last edited by Alessandro Serrao; 04-24-2007 at 04:21 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #21

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    I have the formula from Darkroom Techniques a few years back that is wonderful with TMax100 and TMax400 film stock. It is quick to mix from easily obtained chemicals. Email me for the formula. pmoshay at dslextreme dot com.
    Paul

  3. #22

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    E-K or PF Substitute for Eukobrom?

    Anybody have a Kodak, Photographer's Formulary, or homebrew substitute for Tetenal Eukobrom?

    First development: Tetenal Eukobrom 1+5 (42ml) for 11 minutes at 20°C, add 125ml of a 2% di sodium hypo concentrate (equalling 2,5g of the same chemical specimen in 250ml), 1 inversion of 5 seconds every 15 seconds; diluition guideline: 125ml → 167ml → 250ml; start with 125ml of a 2% sodium hypo, then add 42 ml of developer (up to 167ml) then add water up to 250ml;

  4. #23
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Ilford PQ Universal or Champion Suprol are ideal first developers.

  5. #24

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    Ahh, it's a *paper* developer!

  6. #25
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    II° exposure:

    ...at the distance of 10 cm from a fluorescent bulb exposing for 1 minute each side of the spiral, mantaining it on the tank full of pure distilled water...

    Each side: bottom and top side?

    Mantaining it on the tank: how to expose it then? A transparent tank?

  7. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robbedoes View Post
    ...at the distance of 10 cm from a fluorescent bulb exposing for 1 minute each side of the spiral, mantaining it on the tank full of pure distilled water...

    Each side: bottom and top side?

    Mantaining it on the tank: how to expose it then? A transparent tank?
    Yes, the spiral must remain below the water level in the tank.
    After 1 minute you flip the spiral and expose the other "side".

    The light will reach the emulsion sufficiently enough to expose the frames.
    Occasionally you can take the spiral in your hand and expose not the side but the film itself such that the light is perpendicular to the film in the spiral.
    But take care of not let the film go dry (that is the goal of mantaining it in the water).

    I've found that taking the film out of the spiral is way too risky because at this point the emulsion is very soft and no hardener can cope with this.

    Although I've not tried, putting the spiral in a transparent tank or container could do the trick.

    How are the results you're achieving?

  8. #27
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    It's far more normal practice to remove the spiral from the developing tank and expose it to the light source, also 10cm is probably a little to close.

  9. #28
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    I'm in search of the chemicals for the above process but i want to make sure i'm getting the right SODIUM BISULFATE. Artcraft doesn't have it listed and i've only found it at two places that want about $40 per 125grams. Does this sound right? That seems pricey when i'd need 1/3 or that for a batch of bleach. Can someone post a link to a source? Is this something i can get at a pool supply store?
    vinny
    Last edited by wildbill; 01-10-2008 at 03:50 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    www.vinnywalsh.com

    I know what I want but I just don't know how to go about gettin' it.-Hendrix

  10. #29
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Bill, you should read the Ilford sheet on Reversal processing.

    The Permanganate should be acidified with Sulphuric acid.

    Also see Ilfords recommendation for Second exposure.

  11. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Grant View Post
    It's far more normal practice to remove the spiral from the developing tank and expose it to the light source, also 10cm is probably a little to close.
    Probably, but this way you'll inevitably get the emulsion ruined, since it's considerably softened by the bleach.

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