B&w slide tried and true process

[pmoshay]

I have the formula from Darkroom Techniques a few years back that is wonderful with TMax100 and TMax400 film stock. It is quick to mix from easily obtained chemicals. Email me for the formula. pmoshay at dslextreme dot com.
Paul

[Discpad]

Anybody have a Kodak, Photographer's Formulary, or homebrew substitute for Tetenal Eukobrom?

First development: Tetenal Eukobrom 1+5 (42ml) for 11 minutes at 20°C, add 125ml of a 2% di sodium hypo concentrate (equalling 2,5g of the same chemical specimen in 250ml), 1 inversion of 5 seconds every 15 seconds; diluition guideline: 125ml → 167ml → 250ml; start with 125ml of a 2% sodium hypo, then add 42 ml of developer (up to 167ml) then add water up to 250ml;

[Ian Grant]

Ilford PQ Universal or Champion Suprol are ideal first developers.

[Discpad]

Ahh, it's a *paper* developer!

[Robbedoes]

...at the distance of 10 cm from a fluorescent bulb exposing for 1 minute each side of the spiral, mantaining it on the tank full of pure distilled water...

Each side: bottom and top side?

Mantaining it on the tank: how to expose it then? A transparent tank?

[Alessandro Serrao]

Originally Posted by Robbedoes

...at the distance of 10 cm from a fluorescent bulb exposing for 1 minute each side of the spiral, mantaining it on the tank full of pure distilled water...

Each side: bottom and top side?

Mantaining it on the tank: how to expose it then? A transparent tank?

Yes, the spiral must remain below the water level in the tank.
After 1 minute you flip the spiral and expose the other "side".

The light will reach the emulsion sufficiently enough to expose the frames.
Occasionally you can take the spiral in your hand and expose not the side but the film itself such that the light is perpendicular to the film in the spiral.
But take care of not let the film go dry (that is the goal of mantaining it in the water).

I've found that taking the film out of the spiral is way too risky because at this point the emulsion is very soft and no hardener can cope with this.

Although I've not tried, putting the spiral in a transparent tank or container could do the trick.

How are the results you're achieving?

[Ian Grant]

It's far more normal practice to remove the spiral from the developing tank and expose it to the light source, also 10cm is probably a little to close.

[wildbill]

I'm in search of the chemicals for the above process but i want to make sure i'm getting the right SODIUM BISULFATE. Artcraft doesn't have it listed and i've only found it at two places that want about $40 per 125grams. Does this sound right? That seems pricey when i'd need 1/3 or that for a batch of bleach. Can someone post a link to a source? Is this something i can get at a pool supply store?
vinny

[Ian Grant]

Bill, you should read the Ilford sheet on Reversal processing.

The Permanganate should be acidified with Sulphuric acid.

Also see Ilfords recommendation for Second exposure.

[Alessandro Serrao]

Originally Posted by Ian Grant

It's far more normal practice to remove the spiral from the developing tank and expose it to the light source, also 10cm is probably a little to close.

Probably, but this way you'll inevitably get the emulsion ruined, since it's considerably softened by the bleach.