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  1. #21
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Update, someone mentioned that there might be some kind of little notch that would be different for 400 speed versus 100 speed I do see that I have mostly what I assume to be 100 speed film, the Kodacolor II... It expired in 1980 so there's no actual ASA film speed listed but there is one roll of "Fotomat C-41" film, that the original box said 100 speed film and I wrote that in marker on the cartridge, I was going to add some point change these cartridges out with 16mm film, but then decided that getting those notches done would be tedious, anyway the only role of 400 the film I have does seem to have a different and notch on it, it's just a little bit slightly more indented than the others, so I'm assuming that that's the notch that SOME cameras would use to identify the difference between the two film speed, however this simple camera is definitely not one of them, there's no little kind of switch or anything that is moved or adjusted when you insert the film so there's nothing to identify or change the shutter speed.

    Anyway thanks for all the info and here's a picture

    Click image for larger version. 

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    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  2. #22
    AgX
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    Quote Originally Posted by AgX View Post
    There are basically two types of flash-bars.

    The one you need (and got in that photo) is called Flip-Flash or Top-Flash. It is the vertical type. From this type again there are basically two (interchangable) versions. You got the more advanced type.
    Quote Originally Posted by AgX View Post
    GE made a model that let you chose how many bulbs to let go off at one time.
    This is unique in flash-bar photography.
    I mixed up those flash-bars...

    It is the Philips Topflash that offers the unique feature of deliberately firing several bulbs the same time.


    The difference between the GE Flip-Flash I and II is the different location of the bulbs within the bar: square vs. row.
    But more importand: the prisms array on front of each bulb at the #II with white reflectors behind them.
    Last edited by AgX; 12-23-2013 at 06:38 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #23
    AgX
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    There are so many variations even in the flash-bulb world, one discovers something new all the time. As those different contacts.

  4. #24
    Truzi's Avatar
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    The notches were started (I think) on 126 film cartridges. I used to have a link for 110 notches, but cannot find it. Here is the best I can come up with at the moment, just to give you an idea:
    http://retinarescue.com/110cassette.html
    Of course, you can't forget wikipedia (and perhaps go to camerapedia):
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/110_film

    I've heard the presence of a flash did change the shutter speed even on the most basic models, but I've not confirmed this.

    Finding info on the flash adapter has been difficult. When I got home from work I dug out mine - its an Acme-lite 138. Something like this would probably work on your 110, but is a dedicated flash, not an hotshoe adapter. Here is an old ebay listing (it is sold). I have one for my 126 cameras:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...ectorid=229466

    I think the unit I got my best friend is similar to this National PW-110 adapter - it is an hotshoe. The one on this page appears to be for flash cubes, while hers is for flash bars, so the model number may be different. As you can see, a plastic "clip" ratchets to clamp it on the camera. On your (and her) camera, since the top is not flush, it will not reach the slot. Also, the clip would have to be modified if the camera stays as-is. I intend to fabricate an extension for her that will plug into the camera socket, and the flash adapter will plug into the extension.
    http://www.minimalvideo.com/mt/mt-se...IncludeBlogs=2

    Basically, I will use an old flip-flash for the plug, and probably get an old extender to cannibalize for it's socket (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kodak-flipfl...-/280616374332) - to make my own extension.
    Truzi

  5. #25
    AgX
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    Quote Originally Posted by Truzi View Post
    The notches were started (I think) on 126 film cartridges.
    Yes, then followed by the Agfa Rapid (to conquer 126) and then the Kodak Super-8 and then Fuji Single-8 cassettes.

  6. #26
    Bill Burk's Avatar
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    Stone,

    You can look on Ebay for the occasional 110 Verichrome Pan 12 exp roll... There's a couple there now.

    While some later-generation 110 cameras could tell the film speed from notches, the first generation were naturally set to ASA 100. The Model 20 that I started out with had two speeds, slow speed enabled by using a flash. I used to keep matchsticks in my pocket to take advantage of this fact on cloudy/overcast days.

    (So, it IS an adjustable camera).

  7. #27

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    I've heard some pretty nasty things about the first gen. Kodacolor 400 in 35 mm. Prints from the 110 version must look like mud. I'd love to see examples from it when it was fresh.

    If I ever get around to building some sort of device for perforating film for 110 I'd definitly load up some Superia 1600 and go for it.

  8. #28
    Truzi's Avatar
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    This thread reminds me that I loaded a couple 126 cartridges with unperfed (& hand punched) 35mm. I've been waiting for a sunny day, but now remember the flash adapter I have. My Grandmother's Minolta has a bit of a problem firing the flash at times (probably why she stopped using it). I'm going to test it out now, and maybe take some flash pictures with it this week.

    cl3m3ns, you can get a tiny punch and make a little jig. I've not gotten around to mine yet. For 126, I went to an art store and found a punch about the right size, and used a couple pieces of balsa wood as a guide. It's a pain, but works. You might find this thread interesting:
    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/1...35mm-film.html

    For 110, the index hole is between the frames. So long as you space them correctly, and put them the right distance from the edge of the film, it should be fine. It may waste more film if the punch is too big, but it should work.
    Also, test the camera you intend to use. My best friend's 110 cocks the shutter after two "winds." I held the indexing pin in, and it still fired the shutter - so perfs may not be necessary (they are on my Grandmother's Minolta, though).
    Truzi

  9. #29
    AgX
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    Quote Originally Posted by cl3mens View Post
    I've heard some pretty nasty things about the first gen. Kodacolor 400 in 35 mm. Prints from the 110 version must look like mud. I'd love to see examples from it when it was fresh.
    Kodacolor 400 type 110 was a modified conversion, by this taking care for the special needs of that format.

  10. #30
    bsdunek's Avatar
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    While it is heavy on the Pentax 110, scroll to the bottom and there is info on the speed setting tab.
    http://cameraquest.com/pentx110.htm
    I enjoy my 110 cameras with Lomography Orca B&W and Color Tiger. I, being a good AUPG'r, process the B&W myself. It's a pretty nice film with a real speed of 100. The Color Tiger is 200, and also does very well. I tried some Lobster red scale and found it interesting. Made an 11X14 print and was surprised how good it looked. People don't believe it was done with 110.
    While I do most of my work with 35mm and 6X7, I sure have fun with 110 and my Minox.
    Bruce

    Moma don't take my Kodachrome away!
    Oops, Kodak just did!


    BruceCSdunekPhotography.zenfolio.com

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