Image transfers with Fuji instant films?

[jasonjoo]

Wow, I didn't expect so many responses so soon!

Why would light affect the image transfer? I've peeled my Polaroids (667 and 669) in broad daylight without any issues. Is there a difference in the chemistry? If I start using Fuji's instant films with my Land camera, will have to peel each "polaroid" in the dark as well?

Thanks,

Jason

Edit: BTW, do most people make image transfers from 35mm to the instant film? I'm planning on doing this directly from my Land camera, but it seems like most people are first making the image with a 35mm negative onto an instant film, THEN making the image transfer.

Also, has anyone tried an image transfer with 667 film? I just bought a few packs so I'd like to try it, but I don't want to waste too many polaroids by experimenting :X

[David A. Goldfarb]

No, you don't have to peel normal Fuji instant prints in the dark, because normally you would peel them after they are developed. Apparently, you have to peel them in the dark for transfers, because the development is not yet completed.

I just shoot transfers with a Polaroid back on a medium or large format camera. I don't use a Daylab, but I know gr82bart uses a Daylab for making transfers from slides.

[Alex Hawley]

I've always made transfers from in-camera shots until now. Just got a PolaPrinter which transfers 35mm slides to 8x10 and I'm going to try it today.

There must something different about Fuji's process that makes their film far more light sensitive during development than Polaroid's is/was. This could be a real breakthrough to sustain the art form if it works.

[jasonjoo]

I can see why I would want to make transfers from my slides, but I really can't justify spending the money on the hardware (especially now because polaroids are becoming extinct!).

I'll have to try this with Fuji's instant film. If it turns out well, I just may invest in one of the Daylab systems.

[ann]

i have used both daylabs of all sizes and in camera shots as well. just depends .

[Renato Tonelli]

Originally Posted by jasonjoo

I can see why I would want to make transfers from my slides, but I really can't justify spending the money on the hardware (especially now because polaroids are becoming extinct!).

I'll have to try this with Fuji's instant film. If it turns out well, I just may invest in one of the Daylab systems.

I'm sure the Daylab systems will turn up by the dozen on e-bay for pennies.

I'm glad to hear that the the Fuji material can be worked with.

[David A. Goldfarb]

If you have a 4x5" camera and a packfilm back for the Fuji instant material, you could dupe slides with it with a copy stand or a tripod with a lateral arm and a light box.

[jasonjoo]

Good idea Renato! I'll be checking eBay from time to time, but once word gets out that the Fuji instant films work, people may not want to part with their Daylab systems

Jason

[rwyoung]

OK, I posted the link in reply #2 and just so I can prove it does work, I did it.

And not only did it work, it worked in spite of my bending some of the rules he set forth.

I just grabbed a piece of paper of the scrap pile, I know it is hot pressed and I'm pretty sure it was Canson but right now I couldn't tell you which. And I'm quite sure it has at least some sizing. Second I didn't use a hard rubber brayer. The one I had on had I would call medium soft. The pack film camera on had with Fuji FP100C in it was my "Frankenroid" pinhole so I just set some LF lenses on the table and guessed at an exposure, turns out 10 minutes was probably to little.

Quickly, the light/dark banding that would otherwise be considered a "bad pull" isn't. It is the water color paper rippling a bit and my craptacular scanner lid wasn't heavy enough. Also, the tonal range is better in the print than the scan (same ole' song and dance, I know). However, the large "snowstorm" in the middle isn't an artifact. It is bits of emulsion that didn't transfer. Brayer only run in one direction and possibly the work surface wasn't smooth enough. Or brayer too soft, too little pressure, too fast peel, you know the drill with transfers. Any number of things can go wrong.

But son of a gun if it didn't work!

[keithwms]

Originally Posted by ann

what did you use to glue the lifts down? and, did the "glue" show?

i found the film lifted easily but wouldn't stick to anything.

Hi Ann. Sorry, just saw your question.

What I do with the glue is just use it to fix the very extreme corners of the emulsion. Now, the emulsion was previously sprayed with this krylon UV stuff which kinda hardens / protects it a bit. As it's drying I push the corners down a bit. Then I just tack the edges to paper with ordinary glue, I forget what kind, but something straight from a crafts store.

Ann, as I recall from previous discussion on this, you are interested in gluing it flat. There I am afraid that I can't help you. My own interest is quite different: I like that the emulsions sits some distance off the paper and thus gives a 3D / shadow effect. I don't want bubbles at all, what I want is for it too sit off from the paper and only contact it in a few spots. My feeling is that this is something I can do with the Fuji stuff because the emulsion is somewhat more durable, whereas the lifted polaroid emulsions were too fragile.

Originally Posted by rwyoung

However, the large "snowstorm" in the middle isn't an artifact. It is bits of emulsion that didn't transfer. Brayer only run in one direction and possibly the work surface wasn't smooth enough. Or brayer too soft, too little pressure, too fast peel, you know the drill with transfers. Any number of things can go wrong.

See, that was the issue that I never got past; I will be interested if you find the solution. I simply never solved that problem. I tried all different kinds of brayering (hard or soft, long or short), different papers, more or less moisture on the paper or heat on the fp100c. Please... if you solve it, share your trick!

Renato, I have been enlarging 35mm slides to 4x5" fp100c, I like it a lot.