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  1. #21
    ann
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    i am not interested in gluing it flat, or rather i would rather not have to do that, but i would like it to dry flat as does the polariod. can't have everything, so it seems these days.

    the best thing will be to go buy a couple of packs of fuji and see what i can come with.


    rw,
    did you peel the film in light, or dimmed conditons.
    http://www.aclancyphotography.com

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by ann View Post
    i am not interested in gluing it flat, or rather i would rather not have to do that, but i would like it to dry flat as does the polariod. can't have everything, so it seems these days.
    Okay, maybe I can help you after all.

    I placed the wet lifted emulsion on glossy inkjet paper. I let it dry on that. It dries quite flat and then lifts off well after it's dry. Not as flat as pola but close.

    Now, after lifting it off, I felt the creative need to deform the emulsion. Ripple it and stretch it and so forth. You may not feel that need!
    "Only dead fish follow the stream"

    [APUG Portfolio] [APUG Blog] [Website]

  3. #23

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    Hello all:
    Peter Balazsy Here: www.pbpix.com

    I'm the fellow who pioneered and developed the Fuji FP100c image-transfer technique back in 1992.

    I'm glad to see that you are all anxious to try it and glad to get the technique that I've been releasing and posting lately on Flickr.com and elsewhere.

    Here are a few of my Fuji transfers to show you results and variations.

    Feel free to contact me if you need any help.
    Good luck.

    Peter G. Balazsy
    Peter@pbpix.com
    www.pbpix.com
    973-790-7960
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails tara-8-m.JPG   921639-L.jpg   921230-L.jpg  

  4. #24
    ann
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    ok, where in this site do you discuss how you got the "lifts" to stick to paper?

    I am not interested in doing transfer, just the lift. The film lifts easily but when it dries, it just floats away from the surface.
    http://www.aclancyphotography.com

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by David A. Goldfarb View Post
    I don't use a Daylab, but I know gr82bart uses a Daylab for making transfers from slides.
    I'm actually going to use Fuji and my Daylab for this round of the postcard exchange. Let's see how it goes ....

    The "In the dark" thing is the real big change from the Polaroid transfer process. Means I have to move from the kitchen to the bathroom!

    Regards, Art.
    Visit my website at www.ArtLiem.com
    or my online portfolios at APUG and ModelMayhem

  6. #26
    gr82bart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ann View Post
    ok, where in this site do you discuss how you got the "lifts" to stick to paper?
    I would just start a new thread Ann. I think Winger (Bethe) has tried this before. I did too and I used superglue. Works fine.

    Regards, Art.
    Visit my website at www.ArtLiem.com
    or my online portfolios at APUG and ModelMayhem

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonjoo View Post
    BTW, do most people make image transfers from 35mm to the instant film?
    All my transfers are done from slides using a Daylab.

    Regards, Art.
    Visit my website at www.ArtLiem.com
    or my online portfolios at APUG and ModelMayhem

  8. #28

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    Hi all:
    Peter Balazsy here again.
    www.pbpix.com (973-790-7960) Peter@pbpix.com

    I was in touch today with Mr. Steve Pfaff the President of Daylab
    ( www.daylab.com) and he asked me if I had any "emulsion-lift" success using the new Fuji FP-100c film because many customers have been asking him about it and worried about if it can be accomplished or not.
    So I tried a test tonight and met with relative success right away.
    I feel that the effect is not exactly the same as with the Polaroid emulsion because the layer is thicker and stiffer and not as delicate or as diaphanous.
    It seemed to stick well to the glass but the dry edges where wrinkled seemed to curl up.

    I guess that one way to try to address this ....when using glass ....is to mount the image against a nice color backing paper with the glass reversed so the right side of the image faces down against the backing paper and back of the image shows up through the glass and then the effect of the manipulated, wrinkling is still evident but the entire work is protected behind the glass.

    Another idea is to place another glass flat against the front side of the image to hold entire area flat.

    If you are not wrinkling for artistic feel perhaps a spray adhesive might work.. I'm sure someone will invent a better technique as soon as we all experiment a little more.
    Here's tonight's results:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fuji-lift-1.jpg   Polaroid-lift-1.jpg  
    Last edited by Pbpix; 03-13-2008 at 03:13 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  9. #29

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    My Polaroid stock is dwindling, so this is encouraging. My thanks to everyone taking the time to experiment with the Fuji material and for sharing the results on forums like this one.

  10. #30
    ann
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    so peter, you are placing the lift against glass, have you tried other surfaces?
    http://www.aclancyphotography.com

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