so peter, you are placing the lift against glass, have you tried other surfaces?
No Ann I have not tried any other surfaces yet. That one I posted was just my 1st test experiment with Fuji lifts last night.
I noticed however that when I boiled it and slid off the "emulsion" there was a goopy clear gelatinous mass left on the surface of the original backing paper.
( I think Polaroid used clay)
...but this stuff swelled up from the hot water like clear Cream of Wheat ....lol
I guess it's a bonding agent...used to adhere the top plastic-emulsion-layer to the backing paper.
So whatever that stuff is ( maybe like Knox Gelatin?) it could be used to help the lifted emulsion stick to the new receptor?... maybe?
I imagine if the lifted emulsion was placed smooth and flat onto a new receptor.. and kept smooth... then maybe a spray adhesive would work well... But since most artists like to wrinkle the "lift"... one needs to have a nice slippery receptor surface on which to slide the lift around a bit.
So in that case maybe a wetter goopier adherent would work better. So maybe something like Knox Gelatin?
So maybe if we can find a wet bonding agent that dries shortly after wrinkling the "lift" would work.
I've never used Knox Gelatin per se.. but maybe it ...or something like that would be a good inert bonding agent.
I got word today from some kind folks at Polaroid that things in the film manufacturing facility in Mass. are drawing to an END real soon up there.
They make the larger peel-apart sizes up there in that plant but the 3x4" type 669 film is made in the Mexico plant and that too is closing soon.
The last batches of 8x10" type 809 are finished- (done already!!) with with Dec-2008 expiration dates (I think).
The large 20x24" stuff will expire in late 2009.
The last batch of 3x4" type 669 film being made now will have the March 2009 expiration date. That's it... no more gone forever!
I asked if there was any possible chance or even a warm rumor that another film maker may be in negotiations to take over the manufacturing of this film.. and I was told that ... (it is quite doubtful.. maybe that could happen.).. but it looks very dim because everything is already getting ready to shut down and there's no time for it to happen.
For those making transfers, the information in this post is rather technical but might be of aid here.
Firstoff, the dyes must remain in an alkaline environment to be mobile and diffuse.
Second, the pod is very alkaline, and the image production must be shut down to prevent imaging problems. Therefore, the reciever (the white sheet to which the image is transferred) must contain a mordant which is a chemical that attracts or binds to the dye. It also must contain a mild acid to adjust the pH after the transfer takes place.
The donor sheet, where the image comes from and which contains the silver halide, must stay alkaline long enough to release an image worth of dye and no more or less. It must then shut down quickly. So, there is usually a timing layer and an acid layer that work together to allow this to happen. Usually, the timing layer is some sort of polymer that breaks down in alkali, and the acid layer is a polymeric acid. These may be coated alone or in gelatin if they are compatible.
Once development is complete, the integrity of the donor is unimportant and it can fall apart, but the reciever sheet has more mechanical strength to resist destructive forces. Now, IDK how Fuji and Polaroid construct their peel apart materials, but there are so many ways to do the same thing it would be unprofitable to try and guess. The thing to remember that the image keeps forming and moving to the white sheet with alkali and stops when acid is applied or acid is released.
when i tested the fuji for lifts, it easily came apart from the backing ; which was terrific.
i placed it on a piece of damp watercolor paper and all appeared fine until the next day when i went back to the lab and the emulsion was just lying there no longer attached to the paper. It is very strong and i kept it around to show my students what the emulsion without the backing looked like.
I need to get busy and test some various methods of "glueing" it down, but right now i haven't had the time as my class schedule is pretty full, but i haven't forgotten about testing in the near future.
sadly i had not thought of the 20x24 users out there.
however i think this thread is very encouraging and i think even though a door is closing another is opening,i am sure we would all like polaroid to be around forever but sometimes forced changes bring about new or even better things.we will miss polaroid but i will buy the heck out of fuji just so they keep making it.
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG
have the option to remove this ad.)
when i tested the fuji for lifts, it easily came apart from the backing ; which was terrific.
i placed it on a piece of damp watercolor paper and all appeared fine until the next day when i went back to the lab and the emulsion was just lying there no longer attached to the paper. It is very strong and i kept it around to show my students what the emulsion without the backing looked like.
I need to get busy and test some various methods of "glueing" it down, but right now i haven't had the time as my class schedule is pretty full, but i haven't forgotten about testing in the near future.
Ann;
You can glue it down by coating the paper with 10% gelatin in water with surfactant and then putting the transfer on top of the dried gelatin layer. This will form a good bond. Gentle pressing or rolling will probably help, but be careful.
For an even stronger bond, use either some chrome alum or glyoxal in water (10% solution) at the rate of 5 ml / 100 ml of 10% gelatin. That should really glue things down.
thanks again, ron. i will get some gelatin and some surfactant. I am going to assume you mean just Knox pure gelatin? Do you have any ideas where to find the surfactant?
i may have some chrome alum at the lab and will check went i go in next week as that may be easier than hunting around for the surfactant.
thanks again, ron. i will get some gelatin and some surfactant. I am going to assume you mean just Knox pure gelatin? Do you have any ideas where to find the surfactant?
i may have some chrome alum at the lab and will check went i go in next week as that may be easier than hunting around for the surfactant.
Ann, you could use Photo Flo at 0.5 ml / 100 ml of gelatin 10%, or you could use any of the 'Tween' products. The Formulary sells them.
Using a brush, you may not need the surfactant, but it depends on the paper. You can reduce gel content to as low as 5% without harm, but reduce the hardener and surfactant as well.
IDK about Knox gelatin. Read the label and if it has other ingredients in it, don't use it.
Linear Mode
