Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,706   Posts: 1,548,494   Online: 1017
      
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17
  1. #11

    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    London
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    40
    Well, all the advice points towards were I thought it would. Just develop the buggers and see what u get lol. Il bear in mind the Diafine if my results are constantly disapointing.

    On a slight tangent, Kal- what u were saying about the holga aperture settings not making a difference. When I first discovered Holgas (not that long ago to be honest) I read all I could find on them and kept hearing about this pointless aperture switch that didnt work. It sounded like they hadnt finished manufacturing the cameras properly. The arm that swings into place between the the lense aperture and the film had a larger (square?) hole in it. Therefore it would not make any difference to the light getting in. I bought my holga very recently, brand new from Chine (lovely ebay) and it seems like they have finished the cameras this time round. The hole in the aperture arm is SMALLER (and round) than the main hole (the one closest to the lense). Am I wrong in thinking that this should actualy work now? If you want a smaller aperture u just flick the switch, the arm swings into place and limits the level of light reaching the film. Anyway, thought Id just chuck that question out there while were here. Havent found any info on "new generation working holgas" anywere

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Shooter
    Holga
    Posts
    91
    Images
    44
    I very much appreciate and advocate the 'less technical less worry' approach to Holga work. I have to say that returning to photography after a long layoff, the Holga is one of my favourite cameras and in the last 18 months, some of my personal best shots have been taken with my Holga.

    All I do is load it with HP5+ (or in really low light Delta 3200 rating for development at 1600) and shoot away with little real consideration to exposure ratings. The quirks of the camera and the latitude of the film really more than compensate for anything more technical. Very ocassionally on a sunny day I rate HP5+ 400 at 100 or 200 in development but normally I simply develop at 400 (especially as I often have shots in lower and bright light on the same roll of film). I also am bad at recording on a film what was on it so I usually find myself simply developing at 400 weeks later.

    I usually develop in Rodinal 1:50 with the usual agitation and fix for 4 mins and it seems to work for me.

    Obviously there is a lot of hit and miss with the Holga but that really is the fun of the camera and it is amazing what you can retrieve from the thinnest or darkest of negatives.

    As Kal and others say, the Holga is great fun but you will be amazed what really great shots you can achieve. The 'tag toy' camera does it no justice at all, you can get really surprisingly high quality shots that will be unique to your camera.

    Good luck,

  3. #13
    2F/2F's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    8,008
    Images
    4
    For b/w, I suggest starting with manufacturer's recommended development time for the film and developer that you are using, and printing on variable contrast paper. Holgas are probably about '100 at f/8 or so, like most toy cameras. You could do quite fine with Plus-X or FP4 on a sunny clear day. 400 will work too, but be a bit thick...definitely printable, however. Ilford XP2 is a great option for Holgas, because it is b/w, but has the latitude and range of color neg film. Try to find it expired on E-Bay, as it can get expensive for a toy camera.

    As for exposure, your film speed is the most control you have over that. 400 or 800 color neg is a decent all-around bet that covers a variety of lighting conditions. It will overexpose several stops, but be printable on a clear and sunny day, and will also give you a printable exposure in the shade. Less-than-sunny days bring the overexposure on these films down into a more normal range.

    I find that gratuitous overexposure onto negative film (or cross-processed E-6 film) gives me the most "hits" with a Holga. You can recover from overexposure fairly easily, especially with a funky Holga picture...but underexposure will very easily kill a picture's chances at being printed.
    Last edited by 2F/2F; 12-01-2009 at 04:39 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    London
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    40
    Yea, I was thinking it is better to be overexposed than under, hence going for the HP5+. Using FP4 Id come out underexposed more times than over. Dont think id really use XP2 though due to it needing C-41 processing (unless im getting confused). The cheapest place I know still charges 5/6 pounds to develop just the negs, no printing. With a new baby in our house, even thats out of my price range lol. I got a few colour rolls developed there but as I rarely shoot colour, I can afford it.

    I agree to keeping the Holga side of photography nice and simple and Im loving it. Its like when you were a kid with a cheap point and shoot 35mm compac. See something, shoot it I just like to give a quick thought as to how my SLR would meter in a situation, that way I dont waste shots on something compleply under or over exposed.

  5. #15
    markbarendt's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Ignacio, CO, USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    5,757
    Blog Entries
    3
    Images
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by Gritycityflicks View Post
    Dont think id really use XP2 though due to it needing C-41 processing (unless im getting confused). The cheapest place I know still charges 5/6 pounds to develop just the negs, no printing.
    If you already have the stuff to develop B&W doing C-41 and RA-4 yourself isn't that tough or expensive and RA-4 paper is cheap.

    What can be daunting, until you do it, is temperature control for the film and working in total darkness for the prints.

    Get over those two hurdles and you can get fun stuff like this cheap. http://www.apug.org/gallery1/showima...atid=newimages My first ever, color contact sheet.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gritycityflicks View Post
    I agree to keeping the Holga side of photography nice and simple and Im loving it. Its like when you were a kid with a cheap point and shoot 35mm compac. See something, shoot it I just like to give a quick thought as to how my SLR would meter in a situation, that way I dont waste shots on something compleply under or over exposed.
    Beyond the point of thinking about the ISO when I load my Holga for a subject, I don't think about exposure.

    I do though try to think about framing and I'm trying to shoot one one-subject-rolls so that the contact sheets make sense and so light leaks during storage on my front seat don't ruin stuff I've already done.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Belgium
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,095
    Images
    272
    Quote Originally Posted by Gritycityflicks View Post

    On a slight tangent, Kal- what u were saying about the holga aperture settings not making a difference. When I first discovered Holgas (not that long ago to be honest) I read all I could find on them and kept hearing about this pointless aperture switch that didnt work. It sounded like they hadnt finished manufacturing the cameras properly. The arm that swings into place between the the lense aperture and the film had a larger (square?) hole in it. Therefore it would not make any difference to the light getting in. I bought my holga very recently, brand new from Chine (lovely ebay) and it seems like they have finished the cameras this time round. The hole in the aperture arm is SMALLER (and round) than the main hole (the one closest to the lense). Am I wrong in thinking that this should actualy work now? If you want a smaller aperture u just flick the switch, the arm swings into place and limits the level of light reaching the film. Anyway, thought Id just chuck that question out there while were here. Havent found any info on "new generation working holgas" anywere
    Well I heard of this rumour too, but I found it complicated my decisions when shooting ....stick it on cloudy and forget about it....K
    Kal Khogali

    www.kal-khogali.com


    Visit my Photo Scrap Book

    www.shutteringeye.wordpress.com


    "Wake up, dream, and photograph what you have seen.
    Don't wake up, photograph, and dream of what could have been."

  7. #17
    markbarendt's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Ignacio, CO, USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    5,757
    Blog Entries
    3
    Images
    19
    I do as Kal also, cloudy period.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin