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  1. #11
    tiberiustibz's Avatar
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    The 100B negative is very pale, though the 3000B negative comes through very clearly. I think it has a tendency to solarize though so it should be extra fun.
    --Nicholas Andre

  2. #12
    darkosaric's Avatar
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    Anyhow - normal bleach for clothes works excellent - thank you all once more .
    Beside Fuji films - I will try also to bleach negatives from "triple dip" from impossible project, I have nothing to lose .
    Is it just me - or peel off film is way more fun than integral and instax film ?

  3. #13
    darkosaric's Avatar
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    I tried to bleach Polaroid type 100 blue and chocolate - does not work. So Fuji only :\.
    But in any case - I love this Polaroid type 100 films (chocolate little more than blue); on weekend I will try last from "triple dip" (sepia) - I heard it is best of those 3.

  4. #14

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    I tried to bleach Polaroid type 100 blue and chocolate - does not work.
    Same with the Polaroid Sepia.

  5. #15
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    I tried my first two Negative reclamations last night with FP-100B,(self portraits) had some success with Blue 3m masking taped to glass flat on a table because the blue masking typically pulls off easy, but the Laundry stock Chlorine (worked a charm) caused the tape adhesive to become extra sticky though but cleaned off easily, but I think insoluble stuff like brown Plastic packing tape may work better to prevent the chlorine from getting the emulsion wet beneath the protective plastic, a purpose made chemical resistant plastic masking tape would be perfect! I did discover that if you have a hand spray windex bottle you can literally spray off the Black goo, didnt realize the emultion was below the plastic, so Rubbing gently may be less liquid intensive. The step with the plastic and the roller will only need gentle pressure unless you very lightly soaked your paper towel. (I used toilet tissue folded about 6 times and probably oversoaked it with bleach) I will use less next time, just enough to dampen the paper and the backing. 20 minutes seemed to work prefectly. If the emulsion is allowed to dry (1-2 hours) prior, and kept dry during the backing removal process I can see that a good crisp negative can be had for scanning. I think water rinsing can re-soften the emulsion and Personally I like the scrunched emulsion look around the borders, it has a very plastic and analog feeling to it like a physically melted negative that would take hours of digital manipulation to accurately mimic. Underexposures seem to hold the most detail in the negative and come out slightly yellow but can be adjusted digitally back to black and white, probably best with grayscale on a color image to preserve tone. Ansell's methodology is once again Prophetic in his "Expose for the shadows" approach. Hint: save all those underexsposed instant Negatives they will likely be more valuable visually than the proofs as you will be surprised at the detail remaining in the shadow areas representing Zones 1-4!
    This process should be featured in every school science lab activity for elementary education it never gets old!
    "Often you will discover in life, that temerity yields little that quiet observation and decisive action can!"

  6. #16
    jp498's Avatar
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    I do this with some sort of drano max gel pipe clog remover. It's bleach for sure. I tape the negative down with quality masking tape and take it into the darkroom.



    In the sink, I use a pipette to put maybe 5-6 ML of drano bleach onto it. I spread it around with a paper towel. It's ready to come off in about a minute. I wipe it off, rinse it real clean. After I'm sure the bleach is rinsed away, I put it in a tray of cold cold water, and rub the dried snot off the emulsion side. It comes off best in cold water.

    The negative is good to scan. It's also pretty good for alt process. It does seem to block UV light somewhat, but an extra stop or two exposure and it will still produce fine results. The brown print below was just a test on a paper which I determined wasn't a good choice for this work. The midtones and shadows printed real nice for a cyanotype on the first try.


  7. #17

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    That is just too cool! I've got to try that!
    thanks for the information.
    Robert

  8. #18
    Trask's Avatar
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    I posted about a year ago about using Scrubbing Bubbles with Bleach. It's great -- adheres to the negative, doesn't run at all, spread it around with a spoon. Forget using liquid bleach that gets under the tape, and try Scrubbing Bubbles.

  9. #19
    xya
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    scrubbing bubbles with bleach have been discontinued in 2008. please have a look at this:

    http://www.scjohnson.com/en/products...es-with-Bleach

    what product do you use exactly? I would be well interested in a less liquid product.

    kind regards

    reinhard

  10. #20
    Trask's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xya View Post
    scrubbing bubbles with bleach have been discontinued in 2008. please have a look at this:

    http://www.scjohnson.com/en/products...es-with-Bleach

    what product do you use exactly? I would be well interested in a less liquid product.

    kind regards

    reinhard
    Well, that's pretty strange. I bought some Scrubbing Bubbles with Bleach at a US military commissary last year. I suppose it could have been sitting on the shelf since 2002, but that is even more unlikely. Let me hit my local supermarket and see what I see.

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