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I'm the last person that would want to discourage you, but I don't think that the MSDS sheet will ever tell the whole story.
Have you considered just using a good old fashioned reversal process?
From the film shooters will rise a well developed practice of the alternative processes that, in time, will be adopted in the age of the digital image to free it from the extreme boringness of pressing print.
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Here is some more. Scroll down to see a cutaway view of Polavision. (and CB radios, cigarettes, cassette players, Triumph cars)
Reminisce
http://books.google.com/books?id=KQE...20acid&f=false
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Holmburgers, thanks for giving me a good kick. That's probably the best place to start. I've got a bit of a thing for attempting to tackle huge and complex solutions to problems. Like climbing Mount Everest in order to get some ice for a drink for example. I'll order some bleach as soon as I can.
Bob, in my case, being young, I'm afraid it's not reminiscence but instead inexperienced nostalgia... But that article was a huge help. Provided that the developer penetrates the prismatic layers, I'm feeling pretty optimistic about the reversal method.
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I see that you already found out the chemicals had dried. I was going to post that I just shot throught a pack of Polaroid peel-away still-camera film from the late 90s and it was totally dry.
If the Polavision film does not work out for you there is also the PXL 2000, that is an analog solution.
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 Originally Posted by BobCrowley
Based off this...
Dr. land said that the developer, which "has a passion for anonymity," is a tetramethyl reductic acid that vanishes into intert material after doing its work.
I'd say that figuring this process out would be pretty "special". 
If you've got a good tank to do the developing of Super8, reversal processing is really an awesome thing to behold.
From the film shooters will rise a well developed practice of the alternative processes that, in time, will be adopted in the age of the digital image to free it from the extreme boringness of pressing print.
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If the Polavision film does not work out for you there is also the PXL 2000, that is an analog solution.
I've seen these! It's too bad they've surpassed the $100 mark... Also, the scenes really need to be in color. When I've got some extra cash to burn I want to try that out though. I wonder what would happen if you used a cassette that had been re-recorded over with audio for a decade...
So in other news, I did a clip test of the footage, developing it in HC-110 dilution A for 8 minutes then water rinse then fix. Incredibly, and while thin to my eyes (although the format is so small that it's impossible to tell absolutely, but it does look much weaker than properly exposed S8), there is a full-color negative image! I tried to scan it, but the way the film is structured seems to scatter the scanner's light source, making it impossible to see anything. I'm going to bring the clip with me the next time I go down to the color darkroom and see if I can't make a print from it.
Based on this, I'm really confident about the reversal process. Once I can confirm it works, it should be simple to narrow down the specifics re. the best developer/duration.
It occurred to me that these are the sorts of things I should have figured out/researched BEFORE wasting those two cassettes...
I'll keep you guys updated, and thanks a ton for the help.
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