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  1. #11
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hpulley View Post
    . Would you use Delta 3200 on a sunny day?
    I can't hand-hold ISO 100 film on my 6x9cm camera (even in sunlight) so I didn't try with the Polaroid.
    I most certainly do use a faster film in daylight with a hand-held 6x9cm, for which I have a lot of experience. I can get f16 at a hand holdable speed (around 1/250 to 1/500) with an EI around 600. That is why I went with the faster film. However, unlike the Ilford product, this Fuji stuff really is 3000.



    Here is a breakdown on the apertures available to the camera:
    (there are two adjustments that change the aperture, INDOOR/OUTDOOR and the film speed)
    Focal length: 114mm
    Format diagonal: 120mm
    Optimum aperture for format: f20

    Wide Open: F 8.4 (measured. Specs are F 8.8 per the manual)
    300 - Indoors: F 12.6
    75 - Outdoors: F 19
    150 - Outdoors: F 25.3
    300- Outdoors: F 39
    3000 - Outdoors: F 50

    The problem then is that with films in the 75 and 150 range, the aperture is ok but the shutter speeds are going to be slow with the 'recommended' settings.
    The specs show the shutter can do 10 seconds to 1/1200 second (model 100 ?? 250 simiar??). In that case I'd try to avoid the "OUTDOOR" settings with the small apertures. But only more testing will tell
    Last edited by ic-racer; 05-12-2011 at 09:45 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #12

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    I use FP-3000B outdoors in sun all the time. I can't scan 100B negatives and it is a pain in the a** to 'inventory' both film types. If you do the math you'll see that diffraction is NOT your problem. The film size, print size, and print resolution do not allow diffraction to have any measurable effect.

    I would not shoot Delta 3200 on a sunny day, because it will not hold up to enlargement. At 24mm x 35mm, that negative looks nice and sharp to your eye.

    Your problem is more likely that the large amount of light is amplifying light leaks and increasing glare in the lens elements. If you look here, you'll see a photo taken in full sun with FP-3000B: http://www.flickr.com/photos/amuderi...ream/lightbox/

    My advice is just to try another camera. There are so many out there. It almost isn't worth really trying to 'fix' one when you will eventually find one without problems.

  3. #13
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by amuderick View Post
    If you do the math you'll see that diffraction is NOT your problem. .
    ??

    The math has been done many times. Confirmed by the eyes also

    The nice thing about most analog photography is that you can set you aperture however you want, so 'to each his own' as they say.

  4. #14

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    Ill have to get round to instax one of these days. My experience with 3000b in a 103 Land Camera is that whites are bright, blacks are rich and tonality is great. Not tried the 100b though I have some packs in the fridge.

  5. #15
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    The 3000b doesn't tend to give the rich blacks, but what it delivers is very smooth and lovely, with fairly subtle midtones and highlights for a film that fast. Indeed, fp100b is the best of the bunch for shadows: you can get very rich, deep blacks with it, although the response is still rather slide-like in the sense that it can't handle much subject brightness range. FP400b is very nice too.
    "Only dead fish follow the stream"

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