With a 720nm filter, my experience is f16 at one sec for bright sun. I used that for the Efke, and just did my first roll of Rollei and got good negatives. IMHO, trying to use a light meter for IR will often be misleading. IR is not always proportional to the visible spectrum. I'd start at the f16 & one sec. and bracket for the first roll. That should get you started.
Moma don't take my Kodachrome away!
Oops, Kodak just did!
For all practical purposes, they've taken Kodak away.
I like the Rollei 400 IR film, shot with an R72 filter, and basically treat it like an ISO 25 film (if your metering is not TTL). I was always quite happy with the results, you just need to ensure a lot of sunlight or other IR light source.
Yep. It's roll film; if the image matters (don't they all?!) then bracket and shoot multiples as well; some of the films have the nasty habit of developing pinhole-like artifacts. By 'bracket widely' (or wildly) I mean: best guess for filter exposure compensation +/- 3 stops.
I shot some long-expired konica with a red filter and the result were quite decent. The image and details are here.
Mick, HIE was substantially easier to shoot than most of the near-IR films now on the market. It had sensitivity quite a bit further out into the IR and so haze is therefore much less of a problem. Also, if you look at the curves for films like Rollei IR , superpan, etc. their sensitivities drop off steeply right across the range where you want to filter them to get optimal Wood effect. The results are therefore much less predictable.