With a 720nm filter, my experience is f16 at one sec for bright sun. I used that for the Efke, and just did my first roll of Rollei and got good negatives. IMHO, trying to use a light meter for IR will often be misleading. IR is not always proportional to the visible spectrum. I'd start at the f16 & one sec. and bracket for the first roll. That should get you started.
Moma don't take my Kodachrome away!
Oops, Kodak just did!
I like the Rollei 400 IR film, shot with an R72 filter, and basically treat it like an ISO 25 film (if your metering is not TTL). I was always quite happy with the results, you just need to ensure a lot of sunlight or other IR light source.
Yep. It's roll film; if the image matters (don't they all?!) then bracket and shoot multiples as well; some of the films have the nasty habit of developing pinhole-like artifacts. By 'bracket widely' (or wildly) I mean: best guess for filter exposure compensation +/- 3 stops.
I shot some long-expired konica with a red filter and the result were quite decent. The image and details are here.
Mick, HIE was substantially easier to shoot than most of the near-IR films now on the market. It had sensitivity quite a bit further out into the IR and so haze is therefore much less of a problem. Also, if you look at the curves for films like Rollei IR , superpan, etc. their sensitivities drop off steeply right across the range where you want to filter them to get optimal Wood effect. The results are therefore much less predictable.