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  1. #1

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    buildings at night, film/developer/paper choice?

    I fancy shooting some floodlit city scenes. I want to maintain good seperation in the highlights without ending up with muddy looking mid-tones, how can I achieve my goal? I will be venturing into my nearest town in the deepest depths of dull, wet, middle england shooting med-format, then locking myself in my darkroom to escape the endless soaps and quiz shows on TV. Any ex-models ( Helena Christensen types) who want to learn the craft would be most welcome in my darkroom. Hey! we can all dream can't we?

  2. #2
    juan's Avatar
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    You might consider using divided D-23 developer. I've used it a little for night shots and its compensating effect helps with the contrast.
    juan

  3. #3

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    I think that exposure methods will play a far more important factor then the matter of film, developer, and paper.

    I am not sure how much contrast you will encounter. Normally artificially lit night scenes indicate high contrast. The other factor that plays into this is reciprocity. If you have exposures of a minute or more, then you will experience reciprocity effect and that will increase the already excessive contrast.

    If that is the case, and if you want to maintain highlight separation then I would look to preflashing film rather then primarily reducing development to control contrast.

    If exposures are in the reciprocity effect realm, then I would look to using a film such as Tmax 400 for it's favorable response in that respect. I like Pyrocat as my developer of choice and would see no reason to ammend that.

    JandC Polywarmtone (Forte) evidences a somewhat higher ES then other papers grade for grade. So that would probably be my choice of paper. If I wanted a somewhat cooler paper tone then I might consider using Amidol as my paper developer.

  4. #4
    Andy K's Avatar
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    The last time I shot buildings at night I used an Agfa isolette 6x6 camera, Ilford HP5+, aperture of f/16 and exposure times between 90 seconds and 2 minutes. I developed in Rodinal 1+25 using semi stand development, agitating ten seconds per minute for the first 8 minutes then standing for 8 minutes. Here are a some of the results:


    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...tshots/NS1.jpg

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...tshots/NS3.jpg

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...shots/NS15.jpg


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    Anáil nathrach, ortha bháis is beatha, do chéal déanaimh.

  5. #5
    BWGirl's Avatar
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    Andy! Those are really nice! Thanks for the great info... ok... I know I didn't ask the question, but this is something I've been thinking about doing for a while, too & your info is by far & away the most complete I've seen! Thanks!
    Jeanette
    .................................................. ................
    Isaiah 25:1

  6. #6

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    Good Afternoon, Bogeyes,

    T-Max 100 processed in Technidol (make 10 0z. of solution instead of the 8 0z. indicated on the package, and start at around 12 minutes in a rotary drum processor). The reciprocity characteristics of T-100 are excellent; exposures for subjects such as you describe will typically range from about 1 and 1/2 to 3 minutes at around f11 to f16. I think, based on extremely limited experience that Acros may work even better (somewhat shorter exposures), but it's generally available only in Quickloads, which cost dearly. Recently, I've tried several night exposures on T-100 in HC-110G with stand development (about 15-25 minutes as a starting point). I'll probably try a little more of this, since the HC-110 is considerably cheaper than Technidol.

    Konical

  7. #7
    Andy K's Avatar
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    No worries Jeanette, but I can't take all the credit, I bought a book from Amazon a while back, it has been indispensible in its explanation of the best techniques to use:

    Night Photography by Andrew Sanderson

    ISBN 1 902538 12 9

    £19.99 (not cheap but worth the money)

    He doesn't just use 35mm, he also uses mf and 4x5.


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    Anáil nathrach, ortha bháis is beatha, do chéal déanaimh.

  8. #8
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    I really like the rainy road shot Andy, it really has some presence to it, brrr.
    Gary Beasley

  9. #9
    Kevin Caulfield's Avatar
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    That's a great book, isn't it?
    I just discovered he has another one on photography in and around the home. Has anyone seen it? I can get it for about $13 AUS.

    Quote Originally Posted by Andy K
    No worries Jeanette, but I can't take all the credit, I bought a book from Amazon a while back, it has been indispensible in its explanation of the best techniques to use:

    Night Photography by Andrew Sanderson

    ISBN 1 902538 12 9

    £19.99 (not cheap but worth the money)

    He doesn't just use 35mm, he also uses mf and 4x5.

  10. #10

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    Andy, love the shot of the tennement building, the pillars look typical of those found in cotton mills. If you dont mind me asking, whats the history of the building and where is it?

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