That's exactly what I did the last time, as I was too confused I took the reading from the side of the face facing the window and opened up two stops. But the. How do I cater to the shadows or for that matter expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights.
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Here is the negative, do you think the shadow areas have some detail or the detail is completely lost? I am not sure why is it coming upside down.
I have an idea that may help get us some numbers...
You use VueScan, which has a preference setting that allows you to read density values from the negative.
Prefs, Enable density display.
Then use the Ctrl key to read out densities.
Let us know some of the density readings and how they relate to your measured light readings. Density readings go right to my graph...
Window frame is 1.40
Brightest side of face 1.30
Dark side of the face 0.70
Darkest area below the left ear 0.26
I have no idea what this all means but its fun...
A simple question, if I was to follow the expose the shadows and develop for the highlights rule, then I would take the reading of 1 from the cabinet and close the aperture one stop to put that area in zone IV. But since the face facing the window was at 2.8 then then would go down a stop when in reality it should go up two stops to zone VII. Then if I develop normal I will get an under exposed negative...I am confused.
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For portraits it will be very simple if you consider Incident metering the subject with meter dome facing the camera.
Nevertheless, if you have spot meter I personally take one reading of the face and place it on Zone VI and develop normally considering you have tested and found what your normal dev times are.
OM-1n: Do I need to own a Leica?
Rolleicord Va: Humble.
Holga 120GFN: Amazingly simple yet it produces outstanding negatives to print.
I love following these threads, I learn so much.
I think your negative looks pretty good Raffay, and your exposure method was exactly what I would have done. I usually use EI200 indoors with my Graflex when shooting ISO400 film but that is for that camera and shutter. It may be different for you.
It will be interesting to see what Bill's graph shows.
I was surprised how this graphed. Actually looks like you might have developed the film longer than I thought. Did you use D76 straight?
The solid horizontal red lines are your measured densities (I subtracted 0.20 because it "felt" like that might be your Base+Fog... is that a good guess for your density of the totally clear area of film?).
I guess that the curve is steep, so I placed black dots where your actual densities cross this steepest curve. If I'm wrong about which curve, then the dots might belong at the intersection of the red horizontal lines on another curve... Your meter readings would give clues to the horizontal position. The meter readings you gave are a little hard to place, so I didn't draw vertical lines to finish the illustration.
The highlighted yellow is about the highest density you would normally want for Silver Gelatin (darkroom) printing. So your highlights are higher than you want. But your shadows are still too low in density (barely and debatably).
Yes I used D76 straight @ 20 deg C for 9 minutes. Also, I think my developer might be a little stronger than normal due to the fact that the overall volume after mixing was left to 3 litres rather than 3.8 as recommended, I am not sure what happened (maybe some water got evaporated during boiling) although I did use 3 litres to start with and then added 0.8.
When you ask "I subtracted 0.20 because it "felt" like that might be your Base+Fog... is that a good guess for your density of the totally clear area of film?". To be honest I have no idea what you are talking about. I have read these things base+fog but never understood it. Maybe it will be a good idea if you could refer me to some text, and when I understand these things I will be in a better position to discuss this with you What is base+fog and how does one know, how much is it.
The meter readings I sent are from the following meter and they were positive values with a dash before every value to separate from text:
A few simple questions, what does it mean to have high or low density values.
I feel that you could do a great favour to me and to all who want to learn if rather than discussing a picture I already took (with some lost information), we can start fresh and you give a few simple assignments to grab the basics. It can be something like this:
1. Understanding your film/chemistry/development process - I am not sure how to do it but from your questions I guess the homework could look something
like this. You could tell me to develop/fix an unexposed negative, in D76stock/ fixer - depending on what needs to be done, then see the results. Tell me how to
test the results, maybe scan and see what the density is (I think that would be the base+fog density you are talking about). You also need to see the negative or
guide me if it can be done in VueScan through density readings or whatever we can do to learn about the negative alone (properly fixed, base+fog density etc.)
Now that I/we would know the basics of film/chemistry and development, we can now proceed to the reading the exposure part.
2. For exposure - you can give an assignment like take a picture of something with some characteristics, and then tell me how should I meter and expose, later
scan and share with you all the required meter readings and density values. Then plot and teach what are you reading and how, maybe it will be easier to grasp. I
think if we could do this simple exercise over the coming weekend, I am quite sure it will save a lot of time and energy on both sides and we can then embark on
actual photography rather then discussing things that people like me half understand and that way we waste your time.
Also, please have a look at my meter, and teach me how to read it. There are a lot of things on it, such as light value in red etc. The above suggestion is my humble request to an already very patient teacher, however, if you feel that it would not be possible for you then I would totally understand - you have been an outstanding help already.
I am curious. You mentioned "boiling" the D-76 when you mixed it. Why did you do that?
I mix my D-76 in 3 liters of hot water, about 125F, but I certainly do not boil it. Once it is fully mixed in (the hot water starts turning clear again) then I top off the water with fresh cold water to make up the full US gallon (this is what my packets make total). Then I mix again for a bit to mix everything in. After it cools I pour it into a 5 liter jug.