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  1. #31

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    I quite like using the rolleiflex, just because the WLF means that most people done even realise im taking a photo, and the shutter is almost silent too. But I mostly use my Leica IIIf, I don't know if its the HCB vibe, but it just works for me...
    Currently shooting: KMZ Horizont and Minox B

  2. #32
    Colin Corneau's Avatar
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    I did quite a lot of what would be called "street" photography overseas with my Bronica SQ-Ai...with a 45-degree prism finder it worked beautifully. Repeating oneself by saying "what works for you" but it's true.

    FWIW I've found the TMax films used with TMax developer gave (seemingly) non-existent grain if that's the criteria. If you're using 35mm film it's a fine choice for that.

  3. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kubach View Post
    In my limited experience in street photograpy, I found that my Rollei TLR was the best for me.

    Jeff
    Same here, I use a Yashicamat LM and it's easier, quicker and simpler to use than any other camera I've used.

    When doing street I preset the exposure to allow a depth of field in the range I expect. Something around 2-10m or there abouts. I then pre-focus to (in this example ) about 5m and remember the lightmeter reading from when I setup the camera.

    I then just adjust the shutter speed if the light changes dramatically ( which it rarely does ) and the large WLF allows quick and simple composition. Much easier than 35mm.

  4. #34
    Karl K's Avatar
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    Have you ever tried a Yashica T4 or T4 Super (T5)? They are point 'n shoot 35mm cameras with spectacular wide angle Zeiss T* lenses. Autofocus, autoexposure, auto film advance, and built-in/fill-in flash. Great for street shooting.

  5. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by Karl K View Post
    Have you ever tried a Yashica T4 or T4 Super (T5)? They are point 'n shoot 35mm cameras with spectacular wide angle Zeiss T* lenses. Autofocus, autoexposure, auto film advance, and built-in/fill-in flash. Great for street shooting.
    Personally Not sure it would be a good option. The main reasons are two fold.

    1) don't want autofocus.
    2) don't want autoexposure.

    Depth of field control is important in street and you don't have time for autofocus to find it's focus.. heck your likely to miss shots if the subject is moving.

  6. #36
    Joe VanCleave's Avatar
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    I also have a Yashica LM, great camera; I'm going to hafta put down the Lumix G1 digital for a while and do some more medium format street work.

    Katier, I like your idea of prefocusing and presetting the aperture, then varying the shutter speed for varying light. Sounds like a smart strategy. Hmm, I may have to try that with my other cameras.

    ~Joe

  7. #37
    benjiboy's Avatar
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    The way people react to photographers these days I tend to use a Minox 35 GT compact, because it's quiet, has a very sharp 35mm 2.8 lens that can be focused at the hyperfocal distance, aperture priority exposure, and above all is smaller than a pack of cigarettes, so if my subject takes offense and sticks it " where the Sun don't shine" it won't be too painful
    Ben

  8. #38

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    I still use Contax T3 for my B&W stuff. It's a damn good camera.

  9. #39

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    Dec 2007
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    It comes down to what you are wanting to photograph.
    I would suggest if your target is architectural then go the whole hog with tripod and whatever camera you want. But 'street photography' in my understanding usually means people doing things - or not. The problem here in the UK has got a whole lot worse recently with the 'terrorist suspect' thing so that a small unobtrusive camera seems to be the necessary tool. In my case I have ditched my OM4Ti in these instances for its older smaller brother the XA. Pre-set focus, pre-set aperture, auto exposure, - good most of the time - and built in back light compensation.

  10. #40

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    Jun 2007
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    Tri-X
    Leica M2
    CV 40mm f1.4
    Weston Master V

    Harry

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